1985.5 944 N/A... 900 bucks.
#1
1985.5 944 N/A... 900 bucks.
Hey guys, I'm new here, might be a regular user someday, who knows. I found a 944 for $900 on Craigslist, and it seems like an okay deal. I'd offer him less than that, of course. I'll go take a look at it on Saturday, but all I know this far is that it won't start without starter fluid and that the interior "needs work." Looks like the exterior does as well... Anyway, I didn't talk to the seller for long, since I was in a hurry at the time, but I told him I'd come over to take a look this weekend. I'm just a college student looking for a decent project car to mess around with on the weekends, so I'm not expecting anything amazing. I'm hoping a little work to the fuel delivery system (filter, pump, maybe injectors) will get things running again, but other than that I just want to know of a few things I should specifically look for with a 944 when I go to see it this weekend.
So, whadya think?
So, whadya think?
#2
This site is like the unofficial workshop manual, a priceless resource:
http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-ma...ure-index3.htm
Here's a 944 buyer's guide:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...yers_guide.htm
And, you already found the best Porsche forum (especially for 944s), so come back with any questions you have and someone will help. I learned how to work on cars on a 944 - they're easy to understand most of the time, and fun to fix and to drive.
$900 for a late-dash car... if it's complete and has the potential of being a running car with minor fixes, I'd say it's a great deal. It could potentially be a money pit, though. It comes down to 2 things. 1. How many miles are on it? 2. Find out what it needs to get running before you buy it.
Here's my quick help in figuring it out:
If it will start with starter fluid, then obviously it's not getting fuel. The first thing to check is the DME relay (aka fuel pump relay). You can test to see if it's the DME relay by just bypassing the relay with a 3-way jumper wire. If the car starts, you know replacing the relay is all it needs. Clark's Garage has a page on making this jumper wire, and which terminals to stick it into.
Check that there is fuel in the tank. Fuel more than a few months old starts to go bad, but it should still start (or at least fire a few times).
Also check to see if the tachometer bounces when cranking the engine. If it doesn't, it means the speed and/or reference sensor is bad. (basically 2 rpm sensors next to each other above the flywheel, in the top of the bellhousing)
http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-ma...ure-index3.htm
Here's a 944 buyer's guide:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...yers_guide.htm
And, you already found the best Porsche forum (especially for 944s), so come back with any questions you have and someone will help. I learned how to work on cars on a 944 - they're easy to understand most of the time, and fun to fix and to drive.
$900 for a late-dash car... if it's complete and has the potential of being a running car with minor fixes, I'd say it's a great deal. It could potentially be a money pit, though. It comes down to 2 things. 1. How many miles are on it? 2. Find out what it needs to get running before you buy it.
Here's my quick help in figuring it out:
If it will start with starter fluid, then obviously it's not getting fuel. The first thing to check is the DME relay (aka fuel pump relay). You can test to see if it's the DME relay by just bypassing the relay with a 3-way jumper wire. If the car starts, you know replacing the relay is all it needs. Clark's Garage has a page on making this jumper wire, and which terminals to stick it into.
Check that there is fuel in the tank. Fuel more than a few months old starts to go bad, but it should still start (or at least fire a few times).
Also check to see if the tachometer bounces when cranking the engine. If it doesn't, it means the speed and/or reference sensor is bad. (basically 2 rpm sensors next to each other above the flywheel, in the top of the bellhousing)
#3
How long has it been sitting?
But in general just look at the overall shape of the car, hows the rubber look under the hood, how do the tires look, I would pop a tire as well off and check the shape of the brakes / lines, get under the car and check for leak. make sure it goes into every gear
if he'll let you jack the rear tires off the ground put it in gear and spin one of the rear tires (should spin the other the opposite direction
You know a car thats been sitting in the elements for a long time can get expensive fast! haha And thats if you can do all the work yourself... When I was 18 I picked up a 76 914 that supposedly wasn't running (the battery was just dead lol), but it had been sitting some time, it took tires, brake lines, an army of bushings, gaskets, a broke cv joint, all new rotors, new pads, new fuel lines, and a dead clutch just to get it back on the road... Than I still ended up having to drop the motor and do a top end rebuild, which also included new motor and tranny mounts
anyways moral of the story, rubber doesn't like to sit around in the elements for a long time, and that 1200 dollar car ended up costing me just about 4500 bucks to get through emissions, and it still looked like shizz cuz they paint was faded and the interior was shot haha.... I mean worth it, hell yeah I loved that car, but if I was smarter I would have gone over the car with a little more attention to all it really needed
But in general just look at the overall shape of the car, hows the rubber look under the hood, how do the tires look, I would pop a tire as well off and check the shape of the brakes / lines, get under the car and check for leak. make sure it goes into every gear
if he'll let you jack the rear tires off the ground put it in gear and spin one of the rear tires (should spin the other the opposite direction
You know a car thats been sitting in the elements for a long time can get expensive fast! haha And thats if you can do all the work yourself... When I was 18 I picked up a 76 914 that supposedly wasn't running (the battery was just dead lol), but it had been sitting some time, it took tires, brake lines, an army of bushings, gaskets, a broke cv joint, all new rotors, new pads, new fuel lines, and a dead clutch just to get it back on the road... Than I still ended up having to drop the motor and do a top end rebuild, which also included new motor and tranny mounts
anyways moral of the story, rubber doesn't like to sit around in the elements for a long time, and that 1200 dollar car ended up costing me just about 4500 bucks to get through emissions, and it still looked like shizz cuz they paint was faded and the interior was shot haha.... I mean worth it, hell yeah I loved that car, but if I was smarter I would have gone over the car with a little more attention to all it really needed
#5
#6
This site is like the unofficial workshop manual, a priceless resource:
http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-ma...ure-index3.htm
http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-ma...ure-index3.htm
So thanks for the help, yall, I'll definitely keep all that in mind when I see it this weekend (or, since I'm getting kind of excited, maybe tomorrow). I'll let yall know how it goes!
Also, never seen this smiley before, and I love it. It'd be very useful on, well, any site. Hahaha.
#7
Rare is a 944 that doesn't need LOTS of work. RL is littered with a lot of pricey acquisitions that began a journey of "PO was an idiot" or "shop did complete service" or "clutch went" etc....
I just prefer to start the journey with $4100 of gravy and known work/parts.
On the other hand, this is how a $900 car turns into profit from parting...
I just prefer to start the journey with $4100 of gravy and known work/parts.
On the other hand, this is how a $900 car turns into profit from parting...
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#8
Rare is a 944 that doesn't need LOTS of work. RL is littered with a lot of pricey acquisitions that began a journey of "PO was an idiot" or "shop did complete service" or "clutch went" etc....
I just prefer to start the journey with $4100 of gravy and known work/parts.
On the other hand, this is how a $900 car turns into profit from parting...
I just prefer to start the journey with $4100 of gravy and known work/parts.
On the other hand, this is how a $900 car turns into profit from parting...
I would rather have someone else pay for a well sorted 944 than purchase it for less than they got into it
#9
1. Power steering leaks.
2. Cam housing leaks.
3. Rotors and pads need replaced.
4. Timing and BS belts need replaced.
5. Exhaust needs work.
6. Sunroof inop.
7. Odometer inop.
8. Engine won't start. Additional diagnosis required.
9. Tires are shot.
10. Hatch struts are both inop.
11. Hood struts are both inop.
12. Seats need recovered.
13. Cruise control is intermittent.
14. Dash has cracks.
15. Battery box shows evidence of water intrusion (above DME).
16. Rear shocks need replacement.
17. Front struts need replacement.
18. Seals on front of engine leaking.
I'm guessing a well sorted 5K car isn't really an option, but it would still satisfy his need for weekend projects...
#10
He's a "college kid looking for a project on weekends." This car will probably be his for $500. Here's my prediction for the PPI:
1. Power steering leaks.
2. Cam housing leaks.
3. Rotors and pads need replaced.
4. Timing and BS belts need replaced.
5. Exhaust needs work.
6. Sunroof inop.
7. Odometer inop.
8. Engine won't start. Additional diagnosis required.
9. Tires are shot.
10. Hatch struts are both inop.
11. Hood struts are both inop.
12. Seats need recovered.
13. Cruise control is intermittent.
14. Dash has cracks.
15. Battery box shows evidence of water intrusion (above DME).
16. Rear shocks need replacement.
17. Front struts need replacement.
18. Seals on front of engine leaking.
I'm guessing a well sorted 5K car isn't really an option, but it would still satisfy his need for weekend projects...
1. Power steering leaks.
2. Cam housing leaks.
3. Rotors and pads need replaced.
4. Timing and BS belts need replaced.
5. Exhaust needs work.
6. Sunroof inop.
7. Odometer inop.
8. Engine won't start. Additional diagnosis required.
9. Tires are shot.
10. Hatch struts are both inop.
11. Hood struts are both inop.
12. Seats need recovered.
13. Cruise control is intermittent.
14. Dash has cracks.
15. Battery box shows evidence of water intrusion (above DME).
16. Rear shocks need replacement.
17. Front struts need replacement.
18. Seals on front of engine leaking.
I'm guessing a well sorted 5K car isn't really an option, but it would still satisfy his need for weekend projects...
#11
i certainly wouldn't get it running while the owner is there. if you jumper the relay and it runs, the likelihood of getting it for $900 or less goes way down. def make sure it starts w/the starter fluid to make sure the timing belt isn't broken. if it starts, end of story. get it for whatever price you can and take it home.
#15
I don't see it on the Raleigh Craigslist...
Did it already sell?
If not, (and the timing belt is not snapped) then $900 for a late model is clearly worth it considering your willingness to nurse it back to health..
My 944 runs great but still needs a boatload of work to be perfect..
Go for it!