ian

So I sent my 951 away for paint this spring, and like a kid going away to boarding school I think it started to resent me while it was gone. After getting the car home on Saturday afternoon she decided it was time to throw a hissy fit, or rather she decided to throw coolant around the engine bay. Turns out the heater control valve gave up the ghost, and had a complete failure. Thankfully the heater control vale is an easier fix than a petulant child. I am hoping the coolant didn't get all over the clutch, but seeing where the failure point is I don't think that is going to be the case. I had been hoping to do the clutch as a winter project in 6 months, but we don't always get to dictate when repairs get done.


On the plus side the car looks good in her fresh Ocean Blue paint :



And a few pictures from after I fixed the HCV and got her running:

Billy W

Slap those white Fuchs on there and it will look great.

ian

Its an 87, so the Fuchs won't fit. They are for the 924S (if I decide to put the 944 fenders and 924 GT flairs on it).

Billy W

You must not give up so easy, back date the hubs and make them fit.

Epic2112

The color looks great. Those are 17 Cayman wheels, correct? Do you have a picture from the side? I've been thinking about geting a set of those...

ian

They are actually aftermarket wheels: http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/Wheel...num=CUP477552S

I actually want to go with 993 Wheels to fit in with the look of the mirrors and door handles, but this set came up for sale locally for the right price so they are a good temporary wheel set:

F18Rep

I've managed to avoid this but I've changed about 6 of those damn valves to do it - I hate working back in that area. If I have to go back there, I pull the intake, change the back tower seal and use studs in place of the 3 little bolts. Super-glue the little vacuum line to the firewall connector so the line doesn't drop off an force me to go back in there. Change out the heater hoses. And then theres the sensors...

Other stuff to think about, pull the exhaust sample line (near the back of the cam tower) and cap it with an old Porsche lug nut - funny but it fits on the crossover and keeps an exhaust leak there from taking out an oil pan gasket. Change out all those old p-car zip ties along the fire wall and clean-up those two ground points back there. Fun stuff...Bruce

Medski

Details please!

LeRox

I need to learn all of these tricks and please more details as well!

F18Rep

Ha, well, everybody picks up little things along the way, most of mine come from RL or just watching what people have tried....

The studs on the rear cam tower plate are because its generally easier to work from below but you can only reach one hand up the back side of the engine so, thread a couple of studs in and the new gasket and cap can be hung on the studs (with one hand). Then, putting on the nuts is easy.
McMaster.com now has M5 & M6 yellow plated hardware, for cheap... example look up pn 95327a562. For about $60 you can have a nice little assortment of most common Porsche bolts.


I don't have a pic of the exhaust sample line but a lot of times its little bracket gets broken from vibration fatique. Then it develops a crack at the union with the cross-over pipe and blows hot gas on the pan gasket. The first time I saw this lug nut fix, I thought it was pretty funny (but what a good idea, huh).


Those new BMW sensors that Jason (Paragon) sells are a good deal, but be sure to tie them up, else they touch the exhaust and melt.


Lots of webstores have these injector connectors now and they have gotten cheap too. Replacing them is easy with the engine out. Same with the firewall zip ties.


The three heater hoses at the back are super-cheap insurance against a clutch job.I think I paid Jason $20 total. Get the clamp kit from Linsey for another $24 and you always have a stash of the correct clamps.


Here (lower left corner of pic) are the two vacuum lines that you will probably knock off when you reach up from below. They finally found a way to make the super-glu bottle resealable, so look for it at wally world.
Note the clamp oriented down for access from below.



PS... we are trying another RL suggestion for the first time - sent our cltuch/pressure plate/flywheel to Southbend clutches for a rebuild - $275 for 50% organic, 50% ceramic and they do the machine work - even with bead blasting. 1 week turn-around. ...Bruce

ian

F18 - lots of good suggestions in there, but I think this time I am going to try and do the replacement without pulling the intake. Reason being, I need to see if the clutch is now toast (or perhaps soggy bread after absorbing coolant?). It won't take much of a drive to figure out if I have a ton of work in front of me or not. Will the Porsche gods smile upon me?

Instead of using the plastic Porsche part, I am using a metal heater control valve from an 80's Audi 5000 (and many other cars). Same price (if not a dollar or two cheaper than the Porsche part, and just a little bit more insurance.

JohnKoaWood

FWIW, any M12x1.5 closed nut will work....

There is also a factory cap that can be used to replace the tube!
930.113.153.00 $22.38 new from Porsche... Sonnen shows in in stock..

Hollywood D

If it's any consolation, I spilled coolant all over my clutch last year and it's been fine since. I was messing with the hoses back there and some went down into the inspection hole. Not sure how much though.

ian

Put in the new HCV today, and it looks like the clutch surived the hot coolant explosion. I was already mentally prepared to replace the clutch, so I am in quite a good mood. I need to bleed out the system, and it looks like I can drive my car for the first time in a few months.

FRporscheman

That's good!

Are you going to get a clear bra or anything like that? I dig those wheels!

Bruce, can't you change the rear cam gasket from above? I've done it before on an NA, I don't see why the turbo would be any different.