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Water pump pulley wobble? Probably not normal.

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Old 03-07-2012, 08:29 PM
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Suprang
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Default Water pump pulley wobble? Probably not normal.

Hey guys, I think I know the answer but have to ask just in case.

Basically after getting the belts all back on nice and tensioned, I noticed the water pump pulley was wobbling a bit at idle. It's nothing crazy, but definitely noticeable. Seems to straighten out when the engine revs a bit. No odd sounds coming from the pump, no leaks. Spun just fine when I had the belt off. PO said he replaced it ~20k ago, but who knows if that's true?

I hate the idea of having to take everything off again but don't want it to fail. I'd like to think it could be normal but deep down I think I know what needs to be done, just looking for some confirmation.
Old 03-07-2012, 08:41 PM
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Fara
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New pump time, probably the bearings in the pump are about to fail.

Sorry.
Old 03-07-2012, 09:12 PM
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sweetskillsrk
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Originally Posted by Fara
New pump time, probably the bearings in the pump are about to fail.

Sorry.
+1
Old 03-07-2012, 09:14 PM
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John_AZ
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Suprang,

Fara is right about the pump- replace it.

Here is a DIY about the WP and how the pros check the WP ---In the troubleshooting paragraph-Lateral play.

http://arnnworx.com/h2o-pump.htm

I read a couple of your posts.
When you bought the MM motor mounts, did you get OEM Porsche or REIN? The other brands will fail in a couple of years.

The vibration at 3000rpm to 3300rpm is usually the rubber center clutch disc going bad. Has the clutch disc ever been replaced?

If you do the WP, get a rebuilt from Zims --- http://www.allzim.com/index.html
They have a very good reputation and a RL sponsor.
I now it is not cheap to ship to Canada but maybe a possibility.

It is also a good time to replace the front engine seals if you do the WP.

GL
John
Old 03-07-2012, 10:24 PM
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Suprang
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Thanks for the quick replys guys.

John_AZ
I bought the engine mounts off Zims, haven't put them in yet. The car has kept me busy this winter with other issues. Replaced the rubber center clutch. I will be ordering from Zims:
Water pump
T-stat and seal
Hardware kit

Missing anything else you guys generally replace when doing the pump?

Haven't looked into the front seal kit, will have to research it. I currently have no engine oil leaks, but suspect you're recommending it because I'll be in the vicinity.

Since I absolutely hate pulling the crank pulley off, is there a mod you can do cutting the rear cover for future repairs? I think I read that somewhere.

Thanks again.
Old 03-07-2012, 10:33 PM
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i would change the rollers and all that at the same time
Old 03-08-2012, 12:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Suprang
Thanks for the quick replys guys.

John_AZ
I bought the engine mounts off Zims, haven't put them in yet. The car has kept me busy this winter with other issues. Replaced the rubber center clutch. I will be ordering from Zims:
Water pump
T-stat and seal
Hardware kit

Missing anything else you guys generally replace when doing the pump?

Haven't looked into the front seal kit, will have to research it. I currently have no engine oil leaks, but suspect you're recommending it because I'll be in the vicinity.

Since I absolutely hate pulling the crank pulley off, is there a mod you can do cutting the rear cover for future repairs? I think I read that somewhere.

Thanks again.
Just as long as you did not buy the $35 Aftermarket Zims MM you should be OK.

URO, Hamburg Technic, are crap. Meyle should last a couple of years. OEM a long , long time.

You have to replace the front oil pump crank seal and "O" ring.

If the oil pump sleeve has any seal "groove" it has to be replaced. It will eat the new seal. The Picture shows a groove in the old sleeve.

John
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Old 03-09-2012, 12:35 PM
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I ordered the meyle ones. I also ordered a front seal kit. Thanks again for the info and the oil pump sleeve picture, will probably have to pick one up. Hopefully I can get it locally if I need to. I'm starting to see why these cars are worth so much more with proper service records.

All the belts and rollers are new. I even sprung for the kevlar timing belt even though most say it's not needed.
Old 03-09-2012, 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Suprang
I ordered the meyle ones. I also ordered a front seal kit. Thanks again for the info and the oil pump sleeve picture, will probably have to pick one up. Hopefully I can get it locally if I need to. I'm starting to see why these cars are worth so much more with proper service records.

All the belts and rollers are new. I even sprung for the kevlar timing belt even though most say it's not needed.
check your tensioner bearing, and your rollers if you haven't changed them in a long time :P Its a pain in the *** when the tensioner bearing falls apart and tears up your timing belt
Old 03-09-2012, 06:59 PM
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Hi,

the whole job is shown in my video:


Best regards,

Jürgen
Old 03-09-2012, 08:30 PM
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Great video!
Old 03-09-2012, 09:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Suprang
I also ordered a front seal kit.
The front crank seal can be pressed in very easy with a piece of PVC --1 1/2" ID cut to length needed and a washer using the crank bolt to smoothly do the task.

Lubricate the crank and seal lips with conventional oil.

I use WD-40 sprayed on the outside of the seal to help it go in and WD-40 will get "gummy" and help seal the front crank seal. Curil-T is also used on the outside by some.

GL
John
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Old 03-09-2012, 09:31 PM
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cas951
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Originally Posted by Suprang
Since I absolutely hate pulling the crank pulley off, is there a mod you can do cutting the rear cover for future repairs? I think I read that somewhere.

Thanks again.
I have a 88 turbo S and was able to replace the WP without pulling the back cover off. Just did this three weeks ago. Make sure you use some type of sealer on the gasket. Don't ask me why.

Pressure test the cooling system before buttoning things up.
Old 03-10-2012, 03:15 PM
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Suprang
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Originally Posted by car_slave
Great video!
+1

Originally Posted by John_AZ
The front crank seal can be pressed in very easy with a piece of PVC --1 1/2" ID cut to length needed and a washer using the crank bolt to smoothly do the task.

Lubricate the crank and seal lips with conventional oil.

I use WD-40 sprayed on the outside of the seal to help it go in and WD-40 will get "gummy" and help seal the front crank seal. Curil-T is also used on the outside by some.

GL
John
Thanks again!

Originally Posted by cas951
I have a 88 turbo S and was able to replace the WP without pulling the back cover off. Just did this three weeks ago. Make sure you use some type of sealer on the gasket. Don't ask me why.
How did you manage that? Also what kind of sealer do you guys recommend? I saw on the video it was some green stuff?
Old 03-18-2012, 02:17 PM
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Suprang
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Done. Thanks again for the help guys. Weird thing is the old water pump seemed fine off the car. Oh well, something not to worry about. Now onto the motor mounts.


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