Water pump pulley wobble? Probably not normal.
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Water pump pulley wobble? Probably not normal.
Hey guys, I think I know the answer but have to ask just in case.
Basically after getting the belts all back on nice and tensioned, I noticed the water pump pulley was wobbling a bit at idle. It's nothing crazy, but definitely noticeable. Seems to straighten out when the engine revs a bit. No odd sounds coming from the pump, no leaks. Spun just fine when I had the belt off. PO said he replaced it ~20k ago, but who knows if that's true?
I hate the idea of having to take everything off again but don't want it to fail. I'd like to think it could be normal but deep down I think I know what needs to be done, just looking for some confirmation.
Basically after getting the belts all back on nice and tensioned, I noticed the water pump pulley was wobbling a bit at idle. It's nothing crazy, but definitely noticeable. Seems to straighten out when the engine revs a bit. No odd sounds coming from the pump, no leaks. Spun just fine when I had the belt off. PO said he replaced it ~20k ago, but who knows if that's true?
I hate the idea of having to take everything off again but don't want it to fail. I'd like to think it could be normal but deep down I think I know what needs to be done, just looking for some confirmation.
#4
Proprietoristicly Refined
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Suprang,
Fara is right about the pump- replace it.
Here is a DIY about the WP and how the pros check the WP ---In the troubleshooting paragraph-Lateral play.
http://arnnworx.com/h2o-pump.htm
I read a couple of your posts.
When you bought the MM motor mounts, did you get OEM Porsche or REIN? The other brands will fail in a couple of years.
The vibration at 3000rpm to 3300rpm is usually the rubber center clutch disc going bad. Has the clutch disc ever been replaced?
If you do the WP, get a rebuilt from Zims --- http://www.allzim.com/index.html
They have a very good reputation and a RL sponsor.
I now it is not cheap to ship to Canada but maybe a possibility.
It is also a good time to replace the front engine seals if you do the WP.
GL
John
Fara is right about the pump- replace it.
Here is a DIY about the WP and how the pros check the WP ---In the troubleshooting paragraph-Lateral play.
http://arnnworx.com/h2o-pump.htm
I read a couple of your posts.
When you bought the MM motor mounts, did you get OEM Porsche or REIN? The other brands will fail in a couple of years.
The vibration at 3000rpm to 3300rpm is usually the rubber center clutch disc going bad. Has the clutch disc ever been replaced?
If you do the WP, get a rebuilt from Zims --- http://www.allzim.com/index.html
They have a very good reputation and a RL sponsor.
I now it is not cheap to ship to Canada but maybe a possibility.
It is also a good time to replace the front engine seals if you do the WP.
GL
John
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Thanks for the quick replys guys.
John_AZ
I bought the engine mounts off Zims, haven't put them in yet. The car has kept me busy this winter with other issues. Replaced the rubber center clutch. I will be ordering from Zims:
Water pump
T-stat and seal
Hardware kit
Missing anything else you guys generally replace when doing the pump?
Haven't looked into the front seal kit, will have to research it. I currently have no engine oil leaks, but suspect you're recommending it because I'll be in the vicinity.
Since I absolutely hate pulling the crank pulley off, is there a mod you can do cutting the rear cover for future repairs? I think I read that somewhere.
Thanks again.
John_AZ
I bought the engine mounts off Zims, haven't put them in yet. The car has kept me busy this winter with other issues. Replaced the rubber center clutch. I will be ordering from Zims:
Water pump
T-stat and seal
Hardware kit
Missing anything else you guys generally replace when doing the pump?
Haven't looked into the front seal kit, will have to research it. I currently have no engine oil leaks, but suspect you're recommending it because I'll be in the vicinity.
Since I absolutely hate pulling the crank pulley off, is there a mod you can do cutting the rear cover for future repairs? I think I read that somewhere.
Thanks again.
#7
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Thanks for the quick replys guys.
John_AZ
I bought the engine mounts off Zims, haven't put them in yet. The car has kept me busy this winter with other issues. Replaced the rubber center clutch. I will be ordering from Zims:
Water pump
T-stat and seal
Hardware kit
Missing anything else you guys generally replace when doing the pump?
Haven't looked into the front seal kit, will have to research it. I currently have no engine oil leaks, but suspect you're recommending it because I'll be in the vicinity.
Since I absolutely hate pulling the crank pulley off, is there a mod you can do cutting the rear cover for future repairs? I think I read that somewhere.
Thanks again.
John_AZ
I bought the engine mounts off Zims, haven't put them in yet. The car has kept me busy this winter with other issues. Replaced the rubber center clutch. I will be ordering from Zims:
Water pump
T-stat and seal
Hardware kit
Missing anything else you guys generally replace when doing the pump?
Haven't looked into the front seal kit, will have to research it. I currently have no engine oil leaks, but suspect you're recommending it because I'll be in the vicinity.
Since I absolutely hate pulling the crank pulley off, is there a mod you can do cutting the rear cover for future repairs? I think I read that somewhere.
Thanks again.
URO, Hamburg Technic, are crap. Meyle should last a couple of years. OEM a long , long time.
You have to replace the front oil pump crank seal and "O" ring.
If the oil pump sleeve has any seal "groove" it has to be replaced. It will eat the new seal. The Picture shows a groove in the old sleeve.
John
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I ordered the meyle ones. I also ordered a front seal kit. Thanks again for the info and the oil pump sleeve picture, will probably have to pick one up. Hopefully I can get it locally if I need to. I'm starting to see why these cars are worth so much more with proper service records.
All the belts and rollers are new. I even sprung for the kevlar timing belt even though most say it's not needed.
All the belts and rollers are new. I even sprung for the kevlar timing belt even though most say it's not needed.
#9
Pro
I ordered the meyle ones. I also ordered a front seal kit. Thanks again for the info and the oil pump sleeve picture, will probably have to pick one up. Hopefully I can get it locally if I need to. I'm starting to see why these cars are worth so much more with proper service records.
All the belts and rollers are new. I even sprung for the kevlar timing belt even though most say it's not needed.
All the belts and rollers are new. I even sprung for the kevlar timing belt even though most say it's not needed.
#12
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The front crank seal can be pressed in very easy with a piece of PVC --1 1/2" ID cut to length needed and a washer using the crank bolt to smoothly do the task.
Lubricate the crank and seal lips with conventional oil.
I use WD-40 sprayed on the outside of the seal to help it go in and WD-40 will get "gummy" and help seal the front crank seal. Curil-T is also used on the outside by some.
GL
John
Lubricate the crank and seal lips with conventional oil.
I use WD-40 sprayed on the outside of the seal to help it go in and WD-40 will get "gummy" and help seal the front crank seal. Curil-T is also used on the outside by some.
GL
John
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Pressure test the cooling system before buttoning things up.
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+1
Thanks again!
How did you manage that? Also what kind of sealer do you guys recommend? I saw on the video it was some green stuff?
The front crank seal can be pressed in very easy with a piece of PVC --1 1/2" ID cut to length needed and a washer using the crank bolt to smoothly do the task.
Lubricate the crank and seal lips with conventional oil.
I use WD-40 sprayed on the outside of the seal to help it go in and WD-40 will get "gummy" and help seal the front crank seal. Curil-T is also used on the outside by some.
GL
John
Lubricate the crank and seal lips with conventional oil.
I use WD-40 sprayed on the outside of the seal to help it go in and WD-40 will get "gummy" and help seal the front crank seal. Curil-T is also used on the outside by some.
GL
John
How did you manage that? Also what kind of sealer do you guys recommend? I saw on the video it was some green stuff?
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Done. Thanks again for the help guys. Weird thing is the old water pump seemed fine off the car. Oh well, something not to worry about. Now onto the motor mounts.