zogster

I'm about to replace one of the rear hard brake lines, and possibly more... just wondering if anyone can give me some insight here... (see pic for another 1000-words-worth)

So the shorter of the two rear hard lines that run from the 3-way distributor to the wheels has sprung a leak. Replacement ordered and on the way. But looking again at the line, plus the distributor piece into which it screws at one end, and the other two lines, I'm thinking that it's all so corroded that I may have to replace the distributor also, and possibly one or both of the other lines.

I'm just a bit concerned about getting a new distributor etc. securely mounted in the right place. Because the nut that holds the piece in place is pretty corroded also, I'm worried that by the time I get the distributor piece off, there'll be no bolt left to hold the new one in place.

Anyone been in this spot and can tell me what to expect?

ernie9468

Can't help you since I never had to change the brakes line neither on my 944 or 968.But sending you parts diagram so you & other who can help have parts reference & know which lines your talking about.Btw what do you call the "distributor".GL

ernie9468

One more!!!!

zogster

The distributor is part number 914 355 667 00 - it's the equivalent of the part labelled 13 in the first of those diagrams, though the part diagram I'm referring to is slightly different (for a 1987 944 Turbo)

ernie9468

Ok got you ,this why it's very important to let us know what your driving.Hard to see with all the rust & leaking brake fluid but that's gone to be a SOB to remove without ruining that bolt.GL

plumbum

I have replaced a lot of brake lines that looked like that...More often than not starting with one line turns into another as things seize or corrode. If possable have as many parts available when you start or know where to get them so if you need something else you can get it quick.

I have used heat when trying to un seize lines but be carefull if the system is still seized the brake fluid will boil and could damage seals...or a line could explode (had that happen once...scared the $hit out of me)

zogster

Mmmm, I'm a bit worried it might go that way. As well as the definitely-needs-replacing line, I think I'll get hold of 3/16 copper tubing, 10mm unions, flaring tool and a generic 3-way distributor just in case.

I think I'll stop short of using heat here. Apart from the brake fluid, it's all a bit too close to the fuel tank and lines.

cpcz9382

I'm in the same situation. How hard was it to get the lines over the rear axle?

zogster

OK, update...

[and sorry cpcz, haven't got that far yet, but watch this space]

So I just couldn't separate the metal of the union at one end of the leaking line from the metal of the distributor into which it screws. Very frustrating job. I tried drilling, using a left-handed extractor etc, but just ended up pulling the distributor (pic attached) away from the chassis, taking the bolt onto which it fits with it. But looking at it, they were never going to come apart anyway. I also damaged the hard line to the other rear wheel, but like the leaking line it was pretty corroded so worth replacing in any case.

So, I'm just about ready to replace the two lines to the rear wheels, and the w-way distributor piece, but I'm wondering about the best approach to replacing the bolt that it fits onto. Should I try and weld something in/on to the same spot? (see second attached pic for where it broke away) Or is there another way to do it?

plumbum

you migt be able to get away with placing it in another location and securing it. What is the rust area at the bottom of the picture? Is that the body or frame?

zogster

I'm not quite sure where else I could put it where it would be out of the way, secure, and still be able to connect to the three hard lines it meets, but I'll take another look when the other brake line arrives (decided to get a specialist to make up custom lines rather than make myself... still way cheaper than the actual Porsche bit, and it's one less thing for me to screw up)

The rusty bit is body I guess... rear of the flat section of underbody where it joins the inner wheel arch. Looks as if the rubbery protective stuff has come away along some of the seam. Doesn't look bad, but obviously not good and I'm sure it would be worth doing something to stop it progressing. Maybe Hammerite or similar anti-rust paint?
, edge of

f1rocks

It should be easy enough to make a new stud plate out of a piece of plate, drill a hole and weld a bolt through the back. You have a "location" already determined and the bolt head can stick through the hole.

tack weld the plate in place, you'll likely not have to change the distributor ever again and you could put some good undercoating over the plate and it would look well done. The distributor isn't going to see any load so it doesn't have to have huge amounts of weld. Just grind 3 or 4 good spot to attach and you should be good.

zogster

I like the sound of that... will get on it after my hectic weekend schedule of Oz GP watching and conjunction-of-Jupiter-and-Venus gazing.

mytrplseven

You can get truck liner spray at any auto parts store in the paint section to respray the exposed bottom or, if you wish, liquid electric tape in a can in the electric section of Home Depot. I use this stuff to coat wire bundles that the covering has separated from. I used the truck liner spray to coat the battery box after I repaired the floor with fiberglass. Area should be cleaned with a brush and brake cleaner spray first.

zogster

Sheesh, I wish just one part of this job was easy.

So I've replaced both of the hard lines at the back, plus the 3-way junction, made and welded in place a replacement for the broken mounting point (see attached pic), put it all together...

And now I'm frustrated again because two of the bleed nipples at the back (on the same, left rear caliper) won't move. I've already rounded off the nut part of both, and broken off an extractor stud in one of them (don't know if that was a stupid thing to try, but I reckoned I'd be replacing the nipple anyway so nothing to lose).

What's the best way to shift them?