Camber Plates on Fl-ebay
#31
Burning Brakes
#32
Drifting
We've got over 50 hours of track time on the set I bought a little over a year ago
for our dedicated chump racer.
feathers our front tires very nicely.
A PCA CDI and 951 racer looked at our setup and the tires after a 18 hour race and
was shocked at how well they wore and gave us 2 thumbs up.
Note we have to run 190 Treadware on those 18-24hr enduros. We were able to
run 2 races on those fronts last season before they were toast.
best $75 (it was $120 then) we ever spent on it.
m
for our dedicated chump racer.
feathers our front tires very nicely.
A PCA CDI and 951 racer looked at our setup and the tires after a 18 hour race and
was shocked at how well they wore and gave us 2 thumbs up.
Note we have to run 190 Treadware on those 18-24hr enduros. We were able to
run 2 races on those fronts last season before they were toast.
best $75 (it was $120 then) we ever spent on it.
m
#33
Burning Brakes
As pointed out the spherical bearing isnt the right one to use. The durability of my pair so far seems fine BUT - Using aluminum spring hats (from racers edge I think?), some Koni sport shocks with ride height adjustable perch, and a hypercoil 350lb spring, the camber plate WONT ROTATE!!
To keep from damaging the spring perches and springs, I grease that surface with CV axle grease. Without it, the wheels wont return to center - they'll pull the car hard left or hard right going down the road. Its not a toe issue, simply that the springs will bind, resulting in the steering column being tugged left or right depending on which way you turned last.
The CV axle grease fixed the problem, but every time it rains, gotta get under there and do it again. Also seem to need to add grease every 6 monthsish - its messy!! NOT A GOOD DESIGN! But the work, they're still tight, and nothing has damaged so far. Something totally would have if not for the grease. The hypercoil springs probably would have tore the crap out of the anodized aluminum spring perches.
My 2c
To keep from damaging the spring perches and springs, I grease that surface with CV axle grease. Without it, the wheels wont return to center - they'll pull the car hard left or hard right going down the road. Its not a toe issue, simply that the springs will bind, resulting in the steering column being tugged left or right depending on which way you turned last.
The CV axle grease fixed the problem, but every time it rains, gotta get under there and do it again. Also seem to need to add grease every 6 monthsish - its messy!! NOT A GOOD DESIGN! But the work, they're still tight, and nothing has damaged so far. Something totally would have if not for the grease. The hypercoil springs probably would have tore the crap out of the anodized aluminum spring perches.
My 2c
#34
When you do alloy hats/perches you are supposed to install the neoprene spring isolators or you will chew the alloy, no matter the grade. I posted somewhere the drawing for the steel spacer needed to add the factory planar bearing to the Mookeh plates. That is truly the only thing missing from the design that makes them crap besides height which Mookeh came out with version II to fix.
#35
For those of these that have these... PURELY hypothetically, let's say I have two strut mounts that need to be replaced... any reason these wouldn't be okay? Mine is (as of now), only a street car, but these are a lot cheaper than new mounts or even the KLA ones (which are pretty sweet, and the other option I'm eyeing).
#37
Nordschleife Master
#38
Well, I found a new set of ebay camber plates that looked intriguing... similar design concept to the old Kokeln plates, I think... anyways, I bit the bullet and paid $200 for them. I'll report back what I find.
Definitely a gamble, but may pay off.
Here's a link to the ones I got: http://www.ebay.com/itm/180825985365...84.m1439.l2649
Definitely a gamble, but may pay off.
Here's a link to the ones I got: http://www.ebay.com/itm/180825985365...84.m1439.l2649