944 S2 Clutch Parts
01-10-2012, 10:30 AM
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944 S2 Clutch Parts
When I get back from Afghanistan (soon), I'll be replacing the clutch on my recently-acquired 1990 944 S2 (Coupe)
It has approx 160k miles, and a questionable history. The PPI i had done revealed that the clutch disc is thin (along with some other things), and I'm just gonna replace it.
I got a Sachs clutch kit off of a fellow rennlister, which includes clutch, pressure plate, and the throwout bearing.
I've never done a clutch before, and am definitely doing it myself (I've almost always done my own work), and I've been reading around for any other "While you're in there" parts to be replaced, and so far all I've got is the rear main seal.
Is there anything else I should replace? (Especially with 160k)
Any tips?
(Cam chain tensioner is definitely on my list) Timing belt was done approx a year ago, and its been sitting since then. Runs hot (possibly overheating) but that may just be air from sitting.
Thanks.
It has approx 160k miles, and a questionable history. The PPI i had done revealed that the clutch disc is thin (along with some other things), and I'm just gonna replace it.
I got a Sachs clutch kit off of a fellow rennlister, which includes clutch, pressure plate, and the throwout bearing.
I've never done a clutch before, and am definitely doing it myself (I've almost always done my own work), and I've been reading around for any other "While you're in there" parts to be replaced, and so far all I've got is the rear main seal.
Is there anything else I should replace? (Especially with 160k)
Any tips?
(Cam chain tensioner is definitely on my list) Timing belt was done approx a year ago, and its been sitting since then. Runs hot (possibly overheating) but that may just be air from sitting.
Thanks.
01-10-2012, 10:40 AM
#2
Nordschleife Master
When I get back from Afghanistan (soon), I'll be replacing the clutch on my recently-acquired 1990 944 S2 (Coupe)
It has approx 160k miles, and a questionable history. The PPI i had done revealed that the clutch disc is thin (along with some other things), and I'm just gonna replace it.
I got a Sachs clutch kit off of a fellow rennlister, which includes clutch, pressure plate, and the throwout bearing.
I've never done a clutch before, and am definitely doing it myself (I've almost always done my own work), and I've been reading around for any other "While you're in there" parts to be replaced, and so far all I've got is the rear main seal.
Is there anything else I should replace? (Especially with 160k)
Any tips?
(Cam chain tensioner is definitely on my list) Timing belt was done approx a year ago, and its been sitting since then. Runs hot (possibly overheating) but that may just be air from sitting.
Thanks.
It has approx 160k miles, and a questionable history. The PPI i had done revealed that the clutch disc is thin (along with some other things), and I'm just gonna replace it.
I got a Sachs clutch kit off of a fellow rennlister, which includes clutch, pressure plate, and the throwout bearing.
I've never done a clutch before, and am definitely doing it myself (I've almost always done my own work), and I've been reading around for any other "While you're in there" parts to be replaced, and so far all I've got is the rear main seal.
Is there anything else I should replace? (Especially with 160k)
Any tips?
(Cam chain tensioner is definitely on my list) Timing belt was done approx a year ago, and its been sitting since then. Runs hot (possibly overheating) but that may just be air from sitting.
Thanks.
I'm sure someone close can be found to lend a hand!
01-10-2012, 01:46 PM
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at 160k i would do the whole tensioner since you cant get the bottom pad.
i did some research with the 928 board about 7 years ago and concluded that if you want to play it safe replace the pad at say 60k and the tenisoner at say 120k. with 160k i dont think it is worth the risk to replace just the pad.
i did some research with the 928 board about 7 years ago and concluded that if you want to play it safe replace the pad at say 60k and the tenisoner at say 120k. with 160k i dont think it is worth the risk to replace just the pad.
01-10-2012, 01:56 PM
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I meant the pads. What is the life expectancy of the tensioner itself? All the threads i see about it are the pads failing....
Just looked at a new cam chain tensioner. How can such a small piece cost so much? Almost $500 is rediculous, imho. I've been able to get parts for pretty cheap so far. (Clutch kit, Brake pads + Sensors, Heater Control Valve, Heater Rod Clip, Window Regulator, Hatch motor, Ball joint rebuild kit, Shift boot) Overall approx $700.
Just looked at a new cam chain tensioner. How can such a small piece cost so much? Almost $500 is rediculous, imho. I've been able to get parts for pretty cheap so far. (Clutch kit, Brake pads + Sensors, Heater Control Valve, Heater Rod Clip, Window Regulator, Hatch motor, Ball joint rebuild kit, Shift boot) Overall approx $700.
Last edited by Curious George; 01-10-2012 at 02:13 PM.
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01-10-2012, 02:28 PM
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at 160k i would do the whole tensioner since you cant get the bottom pad.
i did some research with the 928 board about 7 years ago and concluded that if you want to play it safe replace the pad at say 60k and the tenisoner at say 120k. with 160k i dont think it is worth the risk to replace just the pad.
i did some research with the 928 board about 7 years ago and concluded that if you want to play it safe replace the pad at say 60k and the tenisoner at say 120k. with 160k i dont think it is worth the risk to replace just the pad.
So I did top and bottom, I checked the tensioner and it seemed fine. 180k btw. But I would make sure your tensioner is still in good condition and firm.
01-10-2012, 03:22 PM
#9
While you have the trans out you might want to replace the oil and repack the CV joints. I like to replace the bolts with Allen headed grade 10.9 hardware from fastenal. It makes removal so much easier the next time it comes out.
01-27-2012, 03:54 PM
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Ok, thread revival time.
Im still not back yet, but planning ahead.
Im gonna have the flywheel resurfaced, but the shop that i asked is looking for "step measurements" for the flywheel.
I tried searching, but didnt find it... thanks
Im still not back yet, but planning ahead.
Im gonna have the flywheel resurfaced, but the shop that i asked is looking for "step measurements" for the flywheel.
I tried searching, but didnt find it... thanks
01-27-2012, 04:27 PM
#12
Nordschleife Master
From teh second link in the first sub grouping that will come up... Your machine shop SHOULD have been easily able to find this info...
01-31-2012, 02:09 AM
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I wouldnt replace anything unless its actually damaged....
As to special tools, you'll need a 10 or 12mm cheesehead (I forget what size it is) to get the flywheel off the crankshaft.
A pick to get the old mainseal out. BE CAREFUL driving the new one in - because you won't have Porsche's special giant drift. (Its a one-piece mainseal).
You'll need a pilot bearing puller.
You'll need a clutch alignment tool for the correct number of splines on your car. Autozone actually has them. How many splines are on the shaft and whats the shaft size (cant remember this off the top of my head)??
You'll need a 6mm allen key socket drive too I think to get the pressure plate loose.
A big C-clip remover to get the thrust bearing off the pressure plate.
Porsche recommends a specific grease to use in the pilot bearing, on the clutch fork bearings as well. I just use black grease or moly wheel bearing grease. The needle bearings on the clutch fork are usually all bound up - spray them out with carb spray until they are clean and free rolling - then pack with fresh grease.
Consider taking the whole assembly in to get balanced. It can make a big difference.
Oh yeah and.....God bless - thanks for serving and protecting our freedoms!
As to special tools, you'll need a 10 or 12mm cheesehead (I forget what size it is) to get the flywheel off the crankshaft.
A pick to get the old mainseal out. BE CAREFUL driving the new one in - because you won't have Porsche's special giant drift. (Its a one-piece mainseal).
You'll need a pilot bearing puller.
You'll need a clutch alignment tool for the correct number of splines on your car. Autozone actually has them. How many splines are on the shaft and whats the shaft size (cant remember this off the top of my head)??
You'll need a 6mm allen key socket drive too I think to get the pressure plate loose.
A big C-clip remover to get the thrust bearing off the pressure plate.
Porsche recommends a specific grease to use in the pilot bearing, on the clutch fork bearings as well. I just use black grease or moly wheel bearing grease. The needle bearings on the clutch fork are usually all bound up - spray them out with carb spray until they are clean and free rolling - then pack with fresh grease.
Consider taking the whole assembly in to get balanced. It can make a big difference.
Oh yeah and.....God bless - thanks for serving and protecting our freedoms!
