Picked up an '88, cranks but won't start...
01-08-2012, 09:23 PM
#16
First picture are the low speed radiator fan resistors.
The 2nd pictures are connectors for the front brake pad wear sensors mounted on the brake calipers.
The 3rd picture is for timing sensor mounted on the bell housing used by Porsche shop test equipment, the is no connection required.
The 4th picture is the speed and reference connectors from the sensors on the bell-housing to the engine DME ECU harness.
The 2nd pictures are connectors for the front brake pad wear sensors mounted on the brake calipers.
The 3rd picture is for timing sensor mounted on the bell housing used by Porsche shop test equipment, the is no connection required.
The 4th picture is the speed and reference connectors from the sensors on the bell-housing to the engine DME ECU harness.
01-09-2012, 07:48 AM
#17
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
First picture are the low speed radiator fan resistors.
The 2nd pictures are connectors for the front brake pad wear sensors mounted on the brake calipers.
The 3rd picture is for timing sensor mounted on the bell housing used by Porsche shop test equipment, the is no connection required.
The 4th picture is the speed and reference connectors from the sensors on the bell-housing to the engine DME ECU harness.
The 2nd pictures are connectors for the front brake pad wear sensors mounted on the brake calipers.
The 3rd picture is for timing sensor mounted on the bell housing used by Porsche shop test equipment, the is no connection required.
The 4th picture is the speed and reference connectors from the sensors on the bell-housing to the engine DME ECU harness.
Do I have to replace the wear pad sensors due to their condition?
01-09-2012, 09:10 AM
#18
Radiator high and low speed cooling Fans.
First check resistance for both of the resistors, the resistance should read 0.9 Ohms if not you will have to replace them.
Each resistor has a pair of wires connected one wire to each terminal of the resistor. (NOT POLARITY SENSITIVE)
Fan 1 pair of wires are red/black and red/white.
Fan 2 pair of wires are black red and red/green.
Additional information:
Fan 1 Fuse #15 25 amps
Fan 2 Fuse #10 25 amps
Coolant Temperature sensor/switch 92 degrees C Fans low speed and 102 degrees C Fans high speed
Fans control relay relay G10.
If I am correct you do not have ABS on you car, then you could do what I did.
On my car I cut the wear pad connectors off and removed the wires and wear sensors on each caliper.
There are 2 wires inside the black sleeve running back into the firewall area.
Strip the 2 wires and connect together and covered with heat shrink, you will need to do this to both sides. This will prevent the brake warning indicator form coming on.
Note there are brake wear sensor and the rear calipers also.
Of course if you eliminate the brake pad wear sensors you will need to check the break pads for wear.
First check resistance for both of the resistors, the resistance should read 0.9 Ohms if not you will have to replace them.
Each resistor has a pair of wires connected one wire to each terminal of the resistor. (NOT POLARITY SENSITIVE)
Fan 1 pair of wires are red/black and red/white.
Fan 2 pair of wires are black red and red/green.
Additional information:
Fan 1 Fuse #15 25 amps
Fan 2 Fuse #10 25 amps
Coolant Temperature sensor/switch 92 degrees C Fans low speed and 102 degrees C Fans high speed
Fans control relay relay G10.
If I am correct you do not have ABS on you car, then you could do what I did.
On my car I cut the wear pad connectors off and removed the wires and wear sensors on each caliper.
There are 2 wires inside the black sleeve running back into the firewall area.
Strip the 2 wires and connect together and covered with heat shrink, you will need to do this to both sides. This will prevent the brake warning indicator form coming on.
Note there are brake wear sensor and the rear calipers also.
Of course if you eliminate the brake pad wear sensors you will need to check the break pads for wear.
01-09-2012, 09:35 AM
#19
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Radiator high and low speed cooling Fans.
First check resistance for both of the resistors, the resistance should read 0.9 Ohms if not you will have to replace them.
Each resistor has a pair of wires connected one wire to each terminal of the resistor. (NOT POLARITY SENSITIVE)
Fan 1 pair of wires are red/black and red/white.
Fan 2 pair of wires are black red and red/green.
Additional information:
Fan 1 Fuse #15 25 amps
Fan 2 Fuse #10 25 amps
Coolant Temperature sensor/switch 92 degrees C Fans low speed and 102 degrees C Fans high speed
Fans control relay relay G10.
If I am correct you do not have ABS on you car, then you could do what I did.
On my car I cut the wear pad connectors off and removed the wires and wear sensors on each caliper.
There are 2 wires inside the black sleeve running back into the firewall area.
Strip the 2 wires and connect together and covered with heat shrink, you will need to do this to both sides. This will prevent the brake warning indicator form coming on.
Note there are brake wear sensor and the rear calipers also.
Of course if you eliminate the brake pad wear sensors you will need to check the break pads for wear.
First check resistance for both of the resistors, the resistance should read 0.9 Ohms if not you will have to replace them.
Each resistor has a pair of wires connected one wire to each terminal of the resistor. (NOT POLARITY SENSITIVE)
Fan 1 pair of wires are red/black and red/white.
Fan 2 pair of wires are black red and red/green.
Additional information:
Fan 1 Fuse #15 25 amps
Fan 2 Fuse #10 25 amps
Coolant Temperature sensor/switch 92 degrees C Fans low speed and 102 degrees C Fans high speed
Fans control relay relay G10.
If I am correct you do not have ABS on you car, then you could do what I did.
On my car I cut the wear pad connectors off and removed the wires and wear sensors on each caliper.
There are 2 wires inside the black sleeve running back into the firewall area.
Strip the 2 wires and connect together and covered with heat shrink, you will need to do this to both sides. This will prevent the brake warning indicator form coming on.
Note there are brake wear sensor and the rear calipers also.
Of course if you eliminate the brake pad wear sensors you will need to check the break pads for wear.
In regards to the brake sensors, I'd like to leave them functional as I'd like to see if they're accurate or not. I've don't recall ever having a car that has electronic brake wear sensors, kinda unique I suppose
With that said, I guess I'll look into replacing them.
01-09-2012, 10:32 AM
#21
The brake wear sensor is a loop of wire which when the brake pad wears down far enough the wear sensor rubs against the rotor and destroys the wire loop part of the sensor and the brake waring light comes on. When the warning light comes on you will have to inspect each caliper to determine which sensor and pads require service. You will have to replace the sensor if you let the brake pads wear too thin.
The resistor closest to the battery is Fan 1 low speed resistor.
The resistor closest to the battery is Fan 1 low speed resistor.
01-14-2012, 09:40 PM
#23
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
OK a little update.
I installed a new battery, did the DME temp jumpers, and tried to start but still no luck.
When I did the dme jumpers (according to Clarks-garage) I did not hear the fuel pump at all. Should it be a continuous cycling sound that I'm suppose to hear, or is it just "powered" on then the sound disappears but still powered/energized?
I have the speed and reference sensors, new dme, and new spark plug wires on their way so hopefully I'll get this car figured out soon.
Aside from the above, I noticed a couple of other things.
1. After a couple of engine turning overs I went to the engine bay and noticed some white smoke coming up from the back side of the engine. By the time I got the flashlight to look all the smoke was gone and could not identify the source. It had a slight burn smell to the smoke and first thing to mind was maybe the starter? Any other ideas?
2. Another issue is that after I release the key from trying to start it, I hear this noise from the engine bay. It sounds like metal hitting, similar to say a fan blade that's about to stop but is hitting/rubbing a touching shroud. It sounds close to the back of the engine bay but can't be sure as I was a one man worker today.
I'll get a video of this after the new parts arrive and are installed (need a second pair of hands for this).
3. This fuse is making a faint buzzing sound when the ignition is turned to acc and maybe (can't recall) even when the key is put in. What's this fuse and why does it buzz?
4. I noticed this plastic neck and what looked like something should be connected to it. It's just under the distributor cap. Should anything be connected to it?
As always thanks for the help.
I installed a new battery, did the DME temp jumpers, and tried to start but still no luck.
When I did the dme jumpers (according to Clarks-garage) I did not hear the fuel pump at all. Should it be a continuous cycling sound that I'm suppose to hear, or is it just "powered" on then the sound disappears but still powered/energized?
I have the speed and reference sensors, new dme, and new spark plug wires on their way so hopefully I'll get this car figured out soon.
Aside from the above, I noticed a couple of other things.
1. After a couple of engine turning overs I went to the engine bay and noticed some white smoke coming up from the back side of the engine. By the time I got the flashlight to look all the smoke was gone and could not identify the source. It had a slight burn smell to the smoke and first thing to mind was maybe the starter? Any other ideas?
2. Another issue is that after I release the key from trying to start it, I hear this noise from the engine bay. It sounds like metal hitting, similar to say a fan blade that's about to stop but is hitting/rubbing a touching shroud. It sounds close to the back of the engine bay but can't be sure as I was a one man worker today.
I'll get a video of this after the new parts arrive and are installed (need a second pair of hands for this).
3. This fuse is making a faint buzzing sound when the ignition is turned to acc and maybe (can't recall) even when the key is put in. What's this fuse and why does it buzz?
4. I noticed this plastic neck and what looked like something should be connected to it. It's just under the distributor cap. Should anything be connected to it?
As always thanks for the help.
01-14-2012, 09:58 PM
#24
i just had the same symptoms of you, and as you can see it can be many things but all with descently simple checks... first off order a dme relay, ALWAYS good to have a backup and should be the first thing u check when it wont start. second get a spark tester and fuel pressure gauge, test for spark at the plugs, if theres spark there your fine, if no spark then check at the coil, if spark there but not at the plugs its your cap/rotor/wires, if no spark at the coil its probable the coil. now onto fuel, hook the gauge up and try to crank clarksgarage has a manul that says what hi/low/normal pressure is and whats wrone for each, high is FPR, low is bad filter/pump i believe. if your tacvh doesnt bounce upon cranking its your refernce sensors, (wires in pic #4 from previous post) and youll need an ohm tester to see which is bad. all this info is on clarks garage and little tests for all of it... im about 300$ in and still wont start so good luck, i know how u feel!!!
01-14-2012, 10:22 PM
#25
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
i just had the same symptoms of you, and as you can see it can be many things but all with descently simple checks... first off order a dme relay, ALWAYS good to have a backup and should be the first thing u check when it wont start. second get a spark tester and fuel pressure gauge, test for spark at the plugs, if theres spark there your fine, if no spark then check at the coil, if spark there but not at the plugs its your cap/rotor/wires, if no spark at the coil its probable the coil. now onto fuel, hook the gauge up and try to crank clarksgarage has a manul that says what hi/low/normal pressure is and whats wrone for each, high is FPR, low is bad filter/pump i believe. if your tacvh doesnt bounce upon cranking its your refernce sensors, (wires in pic #4 from previous post) and youll need an ohm tester to see which is bad. all this info is on clarks garage and little tests for all of it... im about 300$ in and still wont start so good luck, i know how u feel!!!
I have both sensors and a new DME coming in so I have that part covered.
I held off on the cap/rotor until I was sure it wasn't the common problems (dme/sensors) so we'll see how it goes after the new parts are installed.
Good luck with your starting issue as well and I hope you get it worked out. We need to be driving these cars!
01-15-2012, 07:57 AM
#26
OK a little update.
I installed a new battery, did the DME temp jumpers, and tried to start but still no luck.
When I did the dme jumpers (according to Clarks-garage) I did not hear the fuel pump at all. Should it be a continuous cycling sound that I'm suppose to hear, or is it just "powered" on then the sound disappears but still powered/energized?
With the DME relay jumped the fuel pump should run continuously.
http://www.clarks-garage.com/pdf-manual/fuel-01.pdf
I have the speed and reference sensors, new dme, and new spark plug wires on their way so hopefully I'll get this car figured out soon.
Aside from the above, I noticed a couple of other things.
1. After a couple of engine turning overs I went to the engine bay and noticed some white smoke coming up from the back side of the engine. By the time I got the flashlight to look all the smoke was gone and could not identify the source. It had a slight burn smell to the smoke and first thing to mind was maybe the starter? Any other ideas?
I agree sounds like starter.
2. Another issue is that after I release the key from trying to start it, I hear this noise from the engine bay. It sounds like metal hitting, similar to say a fan blade that's about to stop but is hitting/rubbing a touching shroud. It sounds close to the back of the engine bay but can't be sure as I was a one man worker today.
This could be the starter.
I'll get a video of this after the new parts arrive and are installed (need a second pair of hands for this).
3. This fuse is making a faint buzzing sound when the ignition is turned to acc and maybe (can't recall) even when the key is put in. What's this fuse and why does it buzz?
This is not a fuse it is a warning buzzer that sounds when the key is in the ignition and the door is open.
4. I noticed this plastic neck and what looked like something should be connected to it. It's just under the distributor cap. Should anything be connected to it?
This is where the turbo-charger cooling system would be connected
As always thanks for the help.
I installed a new battery, did the DME temp jumpers, and tried to start but still no luck.
When I did the dme jumpers (according to Clarks-garage) I did not hear the fuel pump at all. Should it be a continuous cycling sound that I'm suppose to hear, or is it just "powered" on then the sound disappears but still powered/energized?
With the DME relay jumped the fuel pump should run continuously.
http://www.clarks-garage.com/pdf-manual/fuel-01.pdf
I have the speed and reference sensors, new dme, and new spark plug wires on their way so hopefully I'll get this car figured out soon.
Aside from the above, I noticed a couple of other things.
1. After a couple of engine turning overs I went to the engine bay and noticed some white smoke coming up from the back side of the engine. By the time I got the flashlight to look all the smoke was gone and could not identify the source. It had a slight burn smell to the smoke and first thing to mind was maybe the starter? Any other ideas?
I agree sounds like starter.
2. Another issue is that after I release the key from trying to start it, I hear this noise from the engine bay. It sounds like metal hitting, similar to say a fan blade that's about to stop but is hitting/rubbing a touching shroud. It sounds close to the back of the engine bay but can't be sure as I was a one man worker today.
This could be the starter.
I'll get a video of this after the new parts arrive and are installed (need a second pair of hands for this).
3. This fuse is making a faint buzzing sound when the ignition is turned to acc and maybe (can't recall) even when the key is put in. What's this fuse and why does it buzz?
This is not a fuse it is a warning buzzer that sounds when the key is in the ignition and the door is open.
4. I noticed this plastic neck and what looked like something should be connected to it. It's just under the distributor cap. Should anything be connected to it?
This is where the turbo-charger cooling system would be connected
As always thanks for the help.
01-15-2012, 08:17 AM
#27
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks again Yarf!
Since I could barely hear the buzzer I guess I'll replace it.
In regards to the turbo cooling, is it just open like that or is there suppose to be something covering it?
Since I could barely hear the buzzer I guess I'll replace it.
In regards to the turbo cooling, is it just open like that or is there suppose to be something covering it?
01-15-2012, 09:45 AM
#28
Nordschleife Master
The plastic elbow on the water pump is blocked internally, just leave it as it is for the na. On the turbo engine they use the same part but drill out "block" so coolant gets to the turbo.
01-15-2012, 09:57 AM
#29
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Buzzer probably got water in it so it doesn't work as it should, yes just replace.
The plastic elbow on the water pump is blocked internally, just leave it as it is for the na. On the turbo engine they use the same part but drill out "block" so coolant gets to the turbo.
The plastic elbow on the water pump is blocked internally, just leave it as it is for the na. On the turbo engine they use the same part but drill out "block" so coolant gets to the turbo.
Good to know it's not opened on that end. Thanks for the info.
01-15-2012, 10:43 AM
#30
Nordschleife Master
Water was the wrong word, condensation gets in that open relay over time. New ones are expensive, try a hot air blower in the holes at the top and if that doesn't cure it look for a good used one.
http://www.944online.com/cgi-bin/ASI...lectrical-9442
http://www.944online.com/cgi-bin/ASI...lectrical-9442