Several tries to start..
11-17-2011, 04:32 PM
#16
Nordschleife Master
Quote de MAGK944
First place I would look for the cold idle problem is the dme temp switch or the O2 sensor. As to the cut out, do this check:
Remove the passenger floorboard and remove the dme from it without disconnecting it. Then try to start the car while tapping the dme.
If you noticed a difference it could be the power resistors in the dme detaching from the circuit board. Quite common and an easy fix.
The dme fault I mentioned doesn't cause the car to stall, it just makes it hard to start, takes a few tries.
I had this problem, the car would turn but not start, after a few more attempts it would fire-up. It never stopped running or stalled when it got going and ran perfectly normal. I got the dme out and while turning the engine over (no start), I tapped the case of the dme and it fired right up. Then I resoldered the power resistors inside and never had the problem since.
Not saying this definatley your issue, but it's an easy thing to eliminate.
First place I would look for the cold idle problem is the dme temp switch or the O2 sensor. As to the cut out, do this check:
Remove the passenger floorboard and remove the dme from it without disconnecting it. Then try to start the car while tapping the dme.
If you noticed a difference it could be the power resistors in the dme detaching from the circuit board. Quite common and an easy fix.
I had this problem, the car would turn but not start, after a few more attempts it would fire-up. It never stopped running or stalled when it got going and ran perfectly normal. I got the dme out and while turning the engine over (no start), I tapped the case of the dme and it fired right up. Then I resoldered the power resistors inside and never had the problem since.
Not saying this definatley your issue, but it's an easy thing to eliminate.
11-17-2011, 05:46 PM
#19
Got Nothin'
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Replaced injectors with new (not rebuilt) and the check valve.
No change. But it sure feels like a fuel issue.
When the car was driven it will start right up, for up to several hours. Once the car sits for a full work day, or over night, it is difficult to start.
11-17-2011, 05:47 PM
#20
Got Nothin'
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Quote de MAGK944
First place I would look for the cold idle problem is the dme temp switch or the O2 sensor. As to the cut out, do this check:
Remove the passenger floorboard and remove the dme from it without disconnecting it. Then try to start the car while tapping the dme.
If you noticed a difference it could be the power resistors in the dme detaching from the circuit board. Quite common and an easy fix.
The dme fault I mentioned doesn't cause the car to stall, it just makes it hard to start, takes a few tries.
I had this problem, the car would turn but not start, after a few more attempts it would fire-up. It never stopped running or stalled when it got going and ran perfectly normal. I got the dme out and while turning the engine over (no start), I tapped the case of the dme and it fired right up. Then I resoldered the power resistors inside and never had the problem since.
Not saying this definatley your issue, but it's an easy thing to eliminate.
First place I would look for the cold idle problem is the dme temp switch or the O2 sensor. As to the cut out, do this check:
Remove the passenger floorboard and remove the dme from it without disconnecting it. Then try to start the car while tapping the dme.
If you noticed a difference it could be the power resistors in the dme detaching from the circuit board. Quite common and an easy fix.
The dme fault I mentioned doesn't cause the car to stall, it just makes it hard to start, takes a few tries.
I had this problem, the car would turn but not start, after a few more attempts it would fire-up. It never stopped running or stalled when it got going and ran perfectly normal. I got the dme out and while turning the engine over (no start), I tapped the case of the dme and it fired right up. Then I resoldered the power resistors inside and never had the problem since.
Not saying this definatley your issue, but it's an easy thing to eliminate.
11-17-2011, 06:11 PM
#21
Nordschleife Master
One other thing that would cause this is a bad fuel check valve. A bad one will cause fuel to drain back into the tank every time you turn the engine off. Then when you go to start the fuel rails are empty and need to be filled before the engine will fire again.
11-18-2011, 05:47 AM
#23
Got Nothin'
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
First thing I tried
