MAGK944

Did a search and surprisingly found nothing on this.

This is a track car in FL and I don't need any more heat. Are there any issues with completely removing 12 & 13 and capping at the water pump? Also does anyone make a blanking plate for the heater valve outlet at the head?

Would really like to remove all of this stuff but uncertain if the flow from this also provides cooling to the head. tnx -Mike

dirtyTurbo

I'm pretty sure you can remove the pipe with no issue, since Lindsey sells the block off plate you're looking for (which I bought for no reason and don't need if you're interested), then it would only make sense to get rid of the other half of the system. Wow, run-on sentance

Darwantae951

Don't forget to cap off the waterneck at the back of the head, too.

MAGK944

Thanks, I'll take the block-off plate off your hands, pm me with price and shipping to 33418 and your paypal email address.

^^ sorted thanks to ihaza944t. Noticed there is an electical connection back there, on the elbow to the hearter bypass valve. What is that for?

Also, would a simple rubber coolant cap be ok for blocking the water pump outlet?

MAGK944

Bump- someone answer the last couple of questions? last post ^^ thx

V2Rocket

On the Spec racers I've worked on, they will actually weld the waterpump shut at that location. Others have clamped a bolt into the stubby hose...

xsboost90

mine is gone- i made my own block off for the head and put a rubber cap on the wp w/ a clamp. If i would have thought of it sooner i would have tapped and put a screw in pipe plug in there.

genikz

I just dumped the metal bit and spliced in a new rubber hose to replace it. However, I routed it on the intake (colder) side. My heater core was already bypassed before this.

My thinking: if the factory had this setup in place, I don't want to risk preventing the flow of water. Some guys even drill and tap a "steam vent" into the head to prevent uncirculated water from causing issues at high temps.

krystar

what do yall do about the head elbow piece where the heater coolant returns to the head?

MAGK944

This was my first thought too. That coolant circuit flows from the engine side of the water pump (before the thermostat) to the heater core and back to the head via the heater control valve. So the pump is always providing flow there. I presume the the heater control valve blocks that flow at all times that the heater is off, but I have a feeling that it slowly bleeds in the off position to allow some flow and relieve the pump pressure. Otherwise wouldn't all that constant pressure cause the lines to fracture? So, those that blocked off this circuit do you all use the steam vent kit?

ZR8ED

If the pipe at the back of the head is an "inlet", then I would not want to just block it off. I would run a new coolant line from the pump to that inlet. I can't picture what it looks like at the moment, but if you are bypassing the heater core in the cabin, then you should try not to interfer with circulation in the engine.

As for the "constant pressure cracking the lines, the cooling system is pressurized, but any serious over pressure situation should overflow your coolant resivoir first.

xsboost90

ok... so the pipe at the back of the head is an OUTLET- the water pump is the inlet. The water flows through the block from one side of the water pump to the water neck on top of the head- you DO NOT NEED this loop- if anything it makes the system harder to bleed out. The steam vent kit is meant to make an outlet for air trapped in the back of the head which is why you are supposed to jack the front of the car up when you bleed the system. You can either make or buy a block off plate for the rear outlet from the head or just put a cap on the pipe. I initially put a coolant hose from the pipe on the head to the back of the metal hose on the cambox but this made the system harder to bleed and was unnecessary. Take a block apart and pull the water pump and check out how it works.

MAGK944

xsboost90 you have the best diagrams! now it all makes perfect sense.