Just bought a minty 951
#16
Thanks for helping with data collection. There's an '86 951, w/ 70k miles, here for sale at the Mercedes dealership. They're asking $12,900 for it and I told them that was about 5-6k more that it is worth. Told them I would look at comps and might make an offer
#18
I agree it is a bit overpriced, but nothing that can't be haggled down. To me it might be worth $10k, but I think it's all in the eye of the beholder. Once a car hits the 15 year mark, it's becomes pretty tough to put a real world value on it. Pay whatever you think it's worth. To be honest, I would have paid more for mine and I didn't even bother bargaining with the guy. Perhaps not the smoothest move, but I don't feel either of us lost out on the deal.
#20
None so far, too busy wrenching.
This car is quickly letting me down. When I test drove it, it had less rattles than my 2008 BMW I was getting rid of, and now there is the god awful squeak coming from the rear. I adjusted one of the hatch pins because apparently that side wasn't closing all the way. Noise is still present. But wait, there's more. No radio reception (probably someone's poor aftermarket radio install), the speakers are screwed down in the rear so that the rear carpet can't be fully lifted up for the spare to be removed, an aftermarket antenna was attached to the rear hatch, but not connected to anything electrically, and dreaded cruise control issues. It accelerates roughly 10 MPH after setting, and doesn't stay engaged. I cleaned out the servo and put it back in to no avail, so I took out the computer and took a heat gun to it. I haven't put it back in yet because I have to get up early, but I doubt if that solves the issue. It seems as though my auxiliary coolant pump does not work. I reseated the relay and beat on it a few times to no avail. That needs further troubleshooting. Either way it's going to be an expensive fix. New relay $150+ or new pump, $200+. While poking around the engine bay, I found a small two or three wire harness disconnected, and followed it down around behind and near the bottom of the engine. No idea what it goes to, so I still need to research that more. The car shakes a bit at idle, which I figured I'd knock out in 30 minutes with some motor mounts, but that looks like a bigger job than I was expecting.
But wait, there's more. It's all fine and dandy until I hit 4000 RPM while WOT, then it seems to cut the fuel. I've been dong some research and I'm going to check out the lines attached to the wastegate, then the cycling valve. If those two things check out, I'm all out of ideas. Oh, and I keep finding places where the paint job is less than satisfactory. They didn't even bother to remove the windshield washer nozzles. Which reminds me, those don't work either.
All-in-all, I'm sort of regretting buying this "minty" car. *Sigh*...
This car is quickly letting me down. When I test drove it, it had less rattles than my 2008 BMW I was getting rid of, and now there is the god awful squeak coming from the rear. I adjusted one of the hatch pins because apparently that side wasn't closing all the way. Noise is still present. But wait, there's more. No radio reception (probably someone's poor aftermarket radio install), the speakers are screwed down in the rear so that the rear carpet can't be fully lifted up for the spare to be removed, an aftermarket antenna was attached to the rear hatch, but not connected to anything electrically, and dreaded cruise control issues. It accelerates roughly 10 MPH after setting, and doesn't stay engaged. I cleaned out the servo and put it back in to no avail, so I took out the computer and took a heat gun to it. I haven't put it back in yet because I have to get up early, but I doubt if that solves the issue. It seems as though my auxiliary coolant pump does not work. I reseated the relay and beat on it a few times to no avail. That needs further troubleshooting. Either way it's going to be an expensive fix. New relay $150+ or new pump, $200+. While poking around the engine bay, I found a small two or three wire harness disconnected, and followed it down around behind and near the bottom of the engine. No idea what it goes to, so I still need to research that more. The car shakes a bit at idle, which I figured I'd knock out in 30 minutes with some motor mounts, but that looks like a bigger job than I was expecting.
But wait, there's more. It's all fine and dandy until I hit 4000 RPM while WOT, then it seems to cut the fuel. I've been dong some research and I'm going to check out the lines attached to the wastegate, then the cycling valve. If those two things check out, I'm all out of ideas. Oh, and I keep finding places where the paint job is less than satisfactory. They didn't even bother to remove the windshield washer nozzles. Which reminds me, those don't work either.
All-in-all, I'm sort of regretting buying this "minty" car. *Sigh*...
#23
None so far, too busy wrenching.
This car is quickly letting me down. When I test drove it, it had less rattles than my 2008 BMW I was getting rid of, and now there is the god awful squeak coming from the rear. I adjusted one of the hatch pins because apparently that side wasn't closing all the way. Noise is still present. But wait, there's more. No radio reception (probably someone's poor aftermarket radio install), the speakers are screwed down in the rear so that the rear carpet can't be fully lifted up for the spare to be removed, an aftermarket antenna was attached to the rear hatch, but not connected to anything electrically, and dreaded cruise control issues. It accelerates roughly 10 MPH after setting, and doesn't stay engaged. I cleaned out the servo and put it back in to no avail, so I took out the computer and took a heat gun to it. I haven't put it back in yet because I have to get up early, but I doubt if that solves the issue. It seems as though my auxiliary coolant pump does not work. I reseated the relay and beat on it a few times to no avail. That needs further troubleshooting. Either way it's going to be an expensive fix. New relay $150+ or new pump, $200+. While poking around the engine bay, I found a small two or three wire harness disconnected, and followed it down around behind and near the bottom of the engine. No idea what it goes to, so I still need to research that more. The car shakes a bit at idle, which I figured I'd knock out in 30 minutes with some motor mounts, but that looks like a bigger job than I was expecting.
But wait, there's more. It's all fine and dandy until I hit 4000 RPM while WOT, then it seems to cut the fuel. I've been dong some research and I'm going to check out the lines attached to the wastegate, then the cycling valve. If those two things check out, I'm all out of ideas. Oh, and I keep finding places where the paint job is less than satisfactory. They didn't even bother to remove the windshield washer nozzles. Which reminds me, those don't work either.
All-in-all, I'm sort of regretting buying this "minty" car. *Sigh*...
This car is quickly letting me down. When I test drove it, it had less rattles than my 2008 BMW I was getting rid of, and now there is the god awful squeak coming from the rear. I adjusted one of the hatch pins because apparently that side wasn't closing all the way. Noise is still present. But wait, there's more. No radio reception (probably someone's poor aftermarket radio install), the speakers are screwed down in the rear so that the rear carpet can't be fully lifted up for the spare to be removed, an aftermarket antenna was attached to the rear hatch, but not connected to anything electrically, and dreaded cruise control issues. It accelerates roughly 10 MPH after setting, and doesn't stay engaged. I cleaned out the servo and put it back in to no avail, so I took out the computer and took a heat gun to it. I haven't put it back in yet because I have to get up early, but I doubt if that solves the issue. It seems as though my auxiliary coolant pump does not work. I reseated the relay and beat on it a few times to no avail. That needs further troubleshooting. Either way it's going to be an expensive fix. New relay $150+ or new pump, $200+. While poking around the engine bay, I found a small two or three wire harness disconnected, and followed it down around behind and near the bottom of the engine. No idea what it goes to, so I still need to research that more. The car shakes a bit at idle, which I figured I'd knock out in 30 minutes with some motor mounts, but that looks like a bigger job than I was expecting.
But wait, there's more. It's all fine and dandy until I hit 4000 RPM while WOT, then it seems to cut the fuel. I've been dong some research and I'm going to check out the lines attached to the wastegate, then the cycling valve. If those two things check out, I'm all out of ideas. Oh, and I keep finding places where the paint job is less than satisfactory. They didn't even bother to remove the windshield washer nozzles. Which reminds me, those don't work either.
All-in-all, I'm sort of regretting buying this "minty" car. *Sigh*...
#24
No, but when a fellow Porsche nut and owner tells me that this car "needs nothing" and "everything works" he was obviously stretching the truth. I figured I could trust the guy who has a real passion for these cars. He was either lying to me about the car, or just really that ignorant to all the problems. I have a hard time believing someone who is so familiar with these cars wouldn't notice the AUX pump not come on, or the hesitation when going WOT, or any other of the nuances.
Nothing I can do about it now except fix the problems. It's just frustrating. I found out tonight the mysterious three wire harness that isn't plugged into anything is supposed to be that way. It's leads to a "timing mark sender" and is apparently used to find TDC for diagnostic purposes. I also hot wired the aux pump and got nothing, so I need to get one of those ASAP.
Nothing I can do about it now except fix the problems. It's just frustrating. I found out tonight the mysterious three wire harness that isn't plugged into anything is supposed to be that way. It's leads to a "timing mark sender" and is apparently used to find TDC for diagnostic purposes. I also hot wired the aux pump and got nothing, so I need to get one of those ASAP.
#26
Atleast you got a carport LOL. You got a really good looking example. The mechanicals shouldnt be too much trouble. Post if your stumped im sure people around here have had the same problems and we discover new solutions on a daily basis
#27
Very nice car! As you spend more and more sleepless hours on here you'll realize your problems aren't so bad, cruise control and no squeaks are luxury features anyway
EDIT: If you need another turbo pump I can get you an excellent deal on one that needs a new o-ring
EDIT: If you need another turbo pump I can get you an excellent deal on one that needs a new o-ring
#28
No, but when a fellow Porsche nut and owner tells me that this car "needs nothing" and "everything works" he was obviously stretching the truth. I figured I could trust the guy who has a real passion for these cars. He was either lying to me about the car, or just really that ignorant to all the problems. I have a hard time believing someone who is so familiar with these cars wouldn't notice the AUX pump not come on, or the hesitation when going WOT, or any other of the nuances.
Nothing I can do about it now except fix the problems. It's just frustrating. I found out tonight the mysterious three wire harness that isn't plugged into anything is supposed to be that way. It's leads to a "timing mark sender" and is apparently used to find TDC for diagnostic purposes. I also hot wired the aux pump and got nothing, so I need to get one of those ASAP.
Nothing I can do about it now except fix the problems. It's just frustrating. I found out tonight the mysterious three wire harness that isn't plugged into anything is supposed to be that way. It's leads to a "timing mark sender" and is apparently used to find TDC for diagnostic purposes. I also hot wired the aux pump and got nothing, so I need to get one of those ASAP.
What do you think is the condition of the turbo, clutch, tranny and engine? Perhaps before you embark on other repairs, you can check on these big ticket items. If they check out ok, it may likely be worth fixing the rest and still have a nice bang-for-the-buck car.
#29
Its funny. I got a great deal on my car but shortly after I found out some stuff.
Cruise didn't work at all(Computer needed to be resoldered), Various little odds and ends that needed replacing. It made a clunking noise under load up until a few weeks ago. The car supposedly didn't leak, but it does leave its markings now even a week after ownership it did. When I first drove it I noticed the car didn't make full boost. I told me dad to make sure it did and he said it did, but I'm not sure he got on it enough to make sure. Turned out to be a socket to kill the turbo. That wasn't cheap.
I have replaced a lot on this car. But its slowly coming together. Just make sure you get the mechincals straightened out then move onto the other stuff.
Cruise didn't work at all(Computer needed to be resoldered), Various little odds and ends that needed replacing. It made a clunking noise under load up until a few weeks ago. The car supposedly didn't leak, but it does leave its markings now even a week after ownership it did. When I first drove it I noticed the car didn't make full boost. I told me dad to make sure it did and he said it did, but I'm not sure he got on it enough to make sure. Turned out to be a socket to kill the turbo. That wasn't cheap.
I have replaced a lot on this car. But its slowly coming together. Just make sure you get the mechincals straightened out then move onto the other stuff.
#30
When I looked at the car when it was at the Highway 99 used car dealer, I did see a few things that I didn't like i.e. paintwork, etc. I also assumed that I would have to spend another $6K on mechanicals after the purchase (I tend to not work on my own cars anymore). These items put the car out of purchase consideration for me. With your DIY skills, you can save more than I would have.
What do you think is the condition of the turbo, clutch, tranny and engine? Perhaps before you embark on other repairs, you can check on these big ticket items. If they check out ok, it may likely be worth fixing the rest and still have a nice bang-for-the-buck car.
What do you think is the condition of the turbo, clutch, tranny and engine? Perhaps before you embark on other repairs, you can check on these big ticket items. If they check out ok, it may likely be worth fixing the rest and still have a nice bang-for-the-buck car.
How deeply did you inspect it when you saw it? Did you happen to drive it when you looked at it? I'm curious to know why you think it would need $6k in work.