mytrplseven

Yahoo! I finally got the crank damper bolt out using a 6' pipe as a breaker bar extender. What a beast! Does the oil pump sleeve "O" Ring behind the crankshaft gear assembly neet to be lubed as well as the main seal? I pulled out the old one and it disentegrated as it came out. I wondered if it isn't supposed to be oiled.

Fintro11

http://m.wonderhowto.com/how-to-repl...44-s2-0127818/
scroll to the bottom and he has the step by step for the whole thing I used the video and that as a reference when i did mine

Darwantae951

There is an o-ring on the crank? Difference between 8V and 16V cars I assume? I just pulled my oil pump and have done a few 8V cars and never seen an o-ring on the crankshaft.

Arominus

According to the PET, it should be there for 8v and 16v motors. The o-ring sits between the timing belt pulley and the toothed oil pump sleeve. part # 999.707.293.40

Darwantae951

None on my car, or any other 8v car I've ever worked on. Also didn't get an extra o-ring in the re-seal kit from Paragon. Also on my 3L (the block is S2 based) there is no o-ring. No leaks, and the engine was professionally built, so I'm pretty confident that it is proper.

Julian Allen

The oil pump (driving gear) sleeve fits first on the front of the crank. There is a bevel in the front of this, into which fits an o-ring, followed by a "support washer" which compresses the o-ring into the bevel and creates the seal. The timing belt drive gear, etc. all fit in front of the o-ring. It's a 28 x 2.5 mm ring, p/n 999 707 283 40, and it is in the factory's seal kits. Without this ring you're relying on the the tolerance between the crank snout and the oil pump sleeve to seal from within the oil pump out.

John_AZ

+1

Yes, the crankshaft seal also has to be below the bevel just like the RMS and be installed to the bottom "shelf"
I do not have a picture of the front crank but here is a picture of the RMS bevel (circled)and shelf (with arrows).

Without the ribs of the outter seal full inserted there is a possibility of a seal blowout as mentioned in this link:

https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...and-and-u.html

The DIY front crank seal press is nothing more than a piece of 1-1/4"id PVC, a big washer and use the crank bolt to press in. A picture in my other posts.

John

mytrplseven

Once the crank bolt was removed it all went pretty smooth. The oil sleeve didn't have any wear groove in it but the little O ring had hardened and it came out easily in pieces with a box cutter blade tip. Main crankshaft seal came out easily after threading a sheet rock screw into it. Reinstallation was fun, trying to get the balance shafts in sync, the 87 auto tensioner installed and the belts routed through it. That was the hardest part. Great learning curve here for future front end work.

JohnKoaWood

I bet your Oring is there, you just didnt notice it!

Yes there is an oring on all these motors..

zerMATT951

2.5l 8v cars, turbo or NA have o-rings on the crank. Order of assembly is oil pump drive gear, o-ring, washer, cam gear. The o-ring should have a light coat of oil or assembly lube when installed to help it seat in place.

Darwantae951

Situation rectified! I liked to think I knew what I was doing when it came to these cars! Clarks Garage didn't mention it, and I guess I just missed ever hearing about it...

Thanks for straightening me out! I already pulled my car apart and re-assembled in the proper order!

carlege

"The repair is shown for a S2, but most steps are the same for other models of the 944. The belts have to be replaced every 8 years or 80000 km, whatever comes first. The water pump and shaft seals should be replaced at each second replacement of the timing belt."

8 years!?