Transaxle drain plug (17mm socket plug) stuck
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 36
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From: Sydney Australia
Transaxle drain plug (17mm socket plug) stuck
So I got the filler plug out ok but the drain plug is seized fast.
I was using a 17mm hex bit and it's rounding out of the socket.
The socket shows some distress from a previous change.
I have ordered two new tapered transaxle plugs as a first order of business.
Now I got to get the drain plug out.
I've used the cold chisel approach one with success and once to make a mess on an old forby sump plug but it was a bolt type and was easier to hammer on the angle.
I hear various approaches, including taking it to my pro
Will WD40 help if I spray it on and leave it for a week?
Dremels and grinding flats, slots for bars etc, vice grips, the plug doesn't protrude much so I'm not really convinced that I have a ready home made solution.
Thoughts guys appreciated!
Will
I was using a 17mm hex bit and it's rounding out of the socket.
The socket shows some distress from a previous change.
I have ordered two new tapered transaxle plugs as a first order of business.
Now I got to get the drain plug out.
I've used the cold chisel approach one with success and once to make a mess on an old forby sump plug but it was a bolt type and was easier to hammer on the angle.
I hear various approaches, including taking it to my pro
Will WD40 help if I spray it on and leave it for a week?
Dremels and grinding flats, slots for bars etc, vice grips, the plug doesn't protrude much so I'm not really convinced that I have a ready home made solution.
Thoughts guys appreciated!
Will
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From: Under Your Car
I've had one plug in all the years I have been working on Porsches that wouldn't come out. 83 944. I tried all the tricks in the book (Breaker bar, propane, map gas, chisel, etc), eventually ruining the plug enough that nothing would bite in it. Ended up having to weld a metal bar to the plug to turn it out. The heat from the weld immediately loosened the plug and it came right out. If you have access to a welder, place a weld in the center of the plug, then try removing it, it might be enough heat to let everything go.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 763
Likes: 2
From: Ballston, VA
PB Blast or good penetrating oil and let sit... Then repeat...
Then put your Hex Tool into the plug and tap it in with a hammer... Once it is seated securely; wake up the threads with a couple more good wacks of the hammer!
Should come right out!
Then put your Hex Tool into the plug and tap it in with a hammer... Once it is seated securely; wake up the threads with a couple more good wacks of the hammer!
Should come right out!
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From: Mississippi
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From: NM (ABQ)
Heat is the best idea, but it will be tough with oil in the trans. Welding a 17mm nut onto the end of the plug would do it.
I can't believe PB or any other oil is going to work, where years of trans oil have not managed to penetrate. Tapered pipe threads are designed to prevent oil or even gaseous fluids from passing.
I can't believe PB or any other oil is going to work, where years of trans oil have not managed to penetrate. Tapered pipe threads are designed to prevent oil or even gaseous fluids from passing.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 36
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From: Sydney Australia
Thanks heaps for all the good suggestions guys! I have a heat gun and will try the heat and tap, tighten and loosen first.
I will try to hammer (not too hard) the bit into the socket as suggested. I'll also inspect the plug better and maybe put some photos up. Depends a bit how much of the plug is sticking out for vice grips and so forth.
I don't have a welder so maybe I will have to get some assistance with that - but then again once its that far gone it won't matter right?
Cheers,
W
I will try to hammer (not too hard) the bit into the socket as suggested. I'll also inspect the plug better and maybe put some photos up. Depends a bit how much of the plug is sticking out for vice grips and so forth.
I don't have a welder so maybe I will have to get some assistance with that - but then again once its that far gone it won't matter right?
Cheers,
W
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 795
Likes: 59
From: Tucson, AZ
Grind the 17mm bit down until it is level. Most of the bits that I've seen have a tapered end which means there is less contact and you strip the plug. Mine was really stuck and I stripped plug a bit. After grinding I put it on a breaker bar and was able to get it loose b/c it would actually hold the torque - those plugs aren't very deep! Make sure it's clean too.
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Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 2,238
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From: NM (ABQ)
Are the plugs NPT or some Euro thread? (Many Euro threads standards are the same as SAE/ANSI) If it is NPT, a pipe plug that has the external square head, maybe in brass, would be a huge improvement.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 36
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From: Sydney Australia
SUCCESS!
What worked:
1) hit plug with degreaser and clean thoroughly
2) soak in WD40 (For what it was worth - almost certainly not much!)
3) grind 17mm Hex Bit back to flat
4) hit plug with heat gun for 5 min - hardly warmed the case at all - probably had no effect
5) tapped plug with hammer firmly and squarely - did not wail on it
6) tapped tool into plug firmly
7) using a standard ratchet with no extension found the best leverage, leaned on it to tighten
8) braced and hauled on it to loosen and it moved
9) worked out easily, came out with perfect thread and although socket is clearly damaged and needs replacing it is immaculate inside and no sign of metal bits or anything bad in the oil.
Thanks for the advice guys. Its great to have a win.
Leaving it to drain now.
Quick follow up questions:
Since it was cold when I finally got it to drain is it going to be fine to just leave it jacked up on the opposite side so it can slowly drain straight out of the hole?
Can I put it in neutral and idle the car to spin some of the remaining oil out? Or is that a big no no?
does it really matter?
I don't know what the PO had in the transaxle - it smells a bit like lanolin and although it is mostly like honey it is blackened and slightly frothed on the surface of the pan.
I have selected the RedLine MT90 75W90 oil for this change and will be interested to hear what people think about getting the most out of the draining.
I am waiting on the arrival of the new drain plugs so there is no rush.
Best regards and thanks for all the help guys!
Will
What worked:
1) hit plug with degreaser and clean thoroughly
2) soak in WD40 (For what it was worth - almost certainly not much!)
3) grind 17mm Hex Bit back to flat
4) hit plug with heat gun for 5 min - hardly warmed the case at all - probably had no effect
5) tapped plug with hammer firmly and squarely - did not wail on it
6) tapped tool into plug firmly
7) using a standard ratchet with no extension found the best leverage, leaned on it to tighten
8) braced and hauled on it to loosen and it moved
9) worked out easily, came out with perfect thread and although socket is clearly damaged and needs replacing it is immaculate inside and no sign of metal bits or anything bad in the oil.
Thanks for the advice guys. Its great to have a win.
Leaving it to drain now.
Quick follow up questions:
Since it was cold when I finally got it to drain is it going to be fine to just leave it jacked up on the opposite side so it can slowly drain straight out of the hole?
Can I put it in neutral and idle the car to spin some of the remaining oil out? Or is that a big no no?
does it really matter?
I don't know what the PO had in the transaxle - it smells a bit like lanolin and although it is mostly like honey it is blackened and slightly frothed on the surface of the pan.
I have selected the RedLine MT90 75W90 oil for this change and will be interested to hear what people think about getting the most out of the draining.
I am waiting on the arrival of the new drain plugs so there is no rush.
Best regards and thanks for all the help guys!
Will
