a/c conversion question
#1
Racer
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It's been asked before I'm sure but I am converting to R134A. Got my vacuum pump, gauge set, cleaner and new receiver.
Few questions:
1) should I detach fittings at compressor? and blow out? spray cleaner in?
2) where else do I spray the cleaner?
3) how much PAG should I put in?
4) should I use a compound on threads for fittings?
thanks,
jc
Few questions:
1) should I detach fittings at compressor? and blow out? spray cleaner in?
2) where else do I spray the cleaner?
3) how much PAG should I put in?
4) should I use a compound on threads for fittings?
thanks,
jc
#3
Three Wheelin'
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You really ought to take the compressor out to dump the oil.
You should then flush the rest of the system to get the remaining POE oil out. A foaming flush with air is a good way to go. Use the high and low side compressor fittings if you can. If not, break it at the receiver/dryer as well. Replace the o-rings on the compressor connections (use PAG oil on them). Put in 1/2 of the PAG oil (about 4 ounces) to the compressor before reconnecting.
Now put on your R134a conversion fittings and hook up the vacuum pump. Then and only then pull the plugs off of the new receive/dryer and attach it. This needs to be the very last thing that you do before switching on the vacuum pump in order to make it most effective at doing its job. I find that no thread compound is needed on threaded fittings, like for the receiver/dryer.
Vac for at least an hour, make sure it holds for 30 minutes (if not, vac for another hour - you haven't gotten all the water out yet), inject another 4 ounces of oil, and purge off as much of a can of R134a as you can into the system through the low port. Now start it and turn on the AC with the fan on high and everything closed up. Resume filling until you get about 26 ounces in.
You should then flush the rest of the system to get the remaining POE oil out. A foaming flush with air is a good way to go. Use the high and low side compressor fittings if you can. If not, break it at the receiver/dryer as well. Replace the o-rings on the compressor connections (use PAG oil on them). Put in 1/2 of the PAG oil (about 4 ounces) to the compressor before reconnecting.
Now put on your R134a conversion fittings and hook up the vacuum pump. Then and only then pull the plugs off of the new receive/dryer and attach it. This needs to be the very last thing that you do before switching on the vacuum pump in order to make it most effective at doing its job. I find that no thread compound is needed on threaded fittings, like for the receiver/dryer.
Vac for at least an hour, make sure it holds for 30 minutes (if not, vac for another hour - you haven't gotten all the water out yet), inject another 4 ounces of oil, and purge off as much of a can of R134a as you can into the system through the low port. Now start it and turn on the AC with the fan on high and everything closed up. Resume filling until you get about 26 ounces in.
#4
Racer
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I did disconnect the fittings at compressor, removed old receiver, flushed with commercial flush through both sides of a/c fittings, fluid come out the other end of receiver lines pretty well. Replaced all the o-rings with green ones. cleaned off as well as possible all fittings.
I was hoping to avoid pulling compressor! Can I blow/suck the old oil out???? Please tell me yes,lol.
If not I will pull it!
Now for the dumber question. I forgot which side of receiver is the "in" side! Any help there?
thanks, I'll post results of this when I'm done..
jc
I was hoping to avoid pulling compressor! Can I blow/suck the old oil out???? Please tell me yes,lol.
If not I will pull it!
Now for the dumber question. I forgot which side of receiver is the "in" side! Any help there?
thanks, I'll post results of this when I'm done..
jc
#5
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R-134a isn't going to feel very cold in your car. You should replace the condenser and Compressor otherwise you are going to be rather warm..
But it doesn't get that hot in Ohio anyway I guess.
But it doesn't get that hot in Ohio anyway I guess.
#6
Three Wheelin'
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I'm not comfortable with not pulling the compressor, so I won't recommend any other way. I typically let it sit with each port over a bucket for like 20 minutes each at least. I also spin it on occasion. You really want that stuff out of there.
I like to put a but of PAG in there when that's done, turn it a few times, and drain again. Maybe I'm going overboard, but I know it works.
As far as what way the receiver/dryes goes, there should be an arrow on the top or side that tells you direction.
I like to put a but of PAG in there when that's done, turn it a few times, and drain again. Maybe I'm going overboard, but I know it works.
As far as what way the receiver/dryes goes, there should be an arrow on the top or side that tells you direction.
#7
Three Wheelin'
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Replacing the compressor will make no difference. Replacing the condenser is a space issue: there isn't any more.
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#8
Nordschleife Master
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The compressor will work fine with R134a as long as you flush the old oil out of it and the rest of the system. I was unhappy with the performance of the stock condenser with R134a but I live in FL. I swapped out to a high performance one from Griffiths and it made a huge difference, especially at stand still when you only have the fan pulling air through it.half way down the page here: http://www.griffiths.com/porsche/ac/944ac/index.html
Also, don't forget to change all the o-rings to ones compatible with R134a.
Also, don't forget to change all the o-rings to ones compatible with R134a.
#10
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But what does that mean? In from high side line? on in from low side line.
I'm guessing the high pressure line to the "in" port on receiver?
I said it was a dumb question..
jc
I'm guessing the high pressure line to the "in" port on receiver?
I said it was a dumb question..
jc
#11
Rainman
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You can swap to a different style condenser. I installed a parallel flow unit on my NA last year (stock AC fittings even bolted on) and there was an immediate difference in cooling capability, even in the middle of a Riverside summer (100+ pretty much every day). Just got to figure out mounting brackets for the thing but it's not bad.
http://www.nostalgicairparts.com/ac/condensers-2.php
OP, as far as pulling the compressor, what are you afraid of? There are two bolts that it hangs by, and the tensioner attachment. Should take about 2 minutes.
http://www.nostalgicairparts.com/ac/condensers-2.php
OP, as far as pulling the compressor, what are you afraid of? There are two bolts that it hangs by, and the tensioner attachment. Should take about 2 minutes.
#12
Three Wheelin'
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PAG is PAG. I like to use the stuff with dye in it already so if I get a leak I can find it easily.
The "IN" port should be towards the front of the car.
The "IN" port should be towards the front of the car.
#13
Three Wheelin'
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The compressor will work fine with R134a as long as you flush the old oil out of it and the rest of the system. I was unhappy with the performance of the stock condenser with R134a but I live in FL. I swapped out to a high performance one from Griffiths and it made a huge difference, especially at stand still when you only have the fan pulling air through it.half way down the page here: http://www.griffiths.com/porsche/ac/944ac/index.html
Also, don't forget to change all the o-rings to ones compatible with R134a.
Also, don't forget to change all the o-rings to ones compatible with R134a.
I did some trashing around the local salvage yards a few years back looking for something that would fit and came up with nada.
#14
Racer
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You can swap to a different style condenser. I installed a parallel flow unit on my NA last year (stock AC fittings even bolted on) and there was an immediate difference in cooling capability, even in the middle of a Riverside summer (100+ pretty much every day). Just got to figure out mounting brackets for the thing but it's not bad.
http://www.nostalgicairparts.com/ac/condensers-2.php
OP, as far as pulling the compressor, what are you afraid of? There are two bolts that it hangs by, and the tensioner attachment. Should take about 2 minutes.
http://www.nostalgicairparts.com/ac/condensers-2.php
OP, as far as pulling the compressor, what are you afraid of? There are two bolts that it hangs by, and the tensioner attachment. Should take about 2 minutes.