Stupid 36 mm bolt head (trailing arm)
#16
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Guess I need to detail this more clearly.
Car on jackstands.
Wheel&tire removed.
Both nuts on trailing arm loose.
Put Jack on outer blade and raise just enough to take pressure off of eccentric adjusting nut. When I did this, I could turn by hand.
Lower Jack to see where the blade is, I marked mine to where I thought I wanted them set.
Tighten. Reinstall wheel & tire. Lower and check height.
Repeat if necessary.
If you have a 36mm or equivalent wrench, then using the Jack on the outer blade is unnecessary.
Car on jackstands.
Wheel&tire removed.
Both nuts on trailing arm loose.
Put Jack on outer blade and raise just enough to take pressure off of eccentric adjusting nut. When I did this, I could turn by hand.
Lower Jack to see where the blade is, I marked mine to where I thought I wanted them set.
Tighten. Reinstall wheel & tire. Lower and check height.
Repeat if necessary.
If you have a 36mm or equivalent wrench, then using the Jack on the outer blade is unnecessary.
#17
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Maybe - but it had to be done.
It's now part of my special tools collection (along with (Arnnworx) timing belt tools, flywheel lock, 17mm Allen tool, cheese-head tools, oil cooler alignment tool, clutch alignment tool, etc).
It's now part of my special tools collection (along with (Arnnworx) timing belt tools, flywheel lock, 17mm Allen tool, cheese-head tools, oil cooler alignment tool, clutch alignment tool, etc).
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Last edited by Scott at Team Harco; 05-12-2011 at 02:33 PM.
#18
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You shoulda called, Scott - I have the correct wrench.
Paragon sells 'em in a set, for oil lines; also has the correct 27mm wrench for adjusting camber.
Paragon sells 'em in a set, for oil lines; also has the correct 27mm wrench for adjusting camber.
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#19
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No worries mate - improvements are being made. Next is a custom exhaust to get rid of the Honda with a fart-can sound.
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