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Stupid 36 mm bolt head (trailing arm)

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Old 05-06-2011, 08:53 AM
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Scott at Team Harco
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Default Stupid 36 mm bolt head (trailing arm)

Tried to fix the ride height problem on Stu last night.

What a fiasco. The eccentric bolt has a 36 mm head on it. With the tools I had available to me - I could not get a good grip on the bolt. And since I didn't want to remove the rear anti-sway bar - there was very little space to maneuver in there.

I'm looking into buying a 36 mm wrench, just for this task. Does anyone have a lead on where to look? I'm thinking a stop at Harbor Freight might be in order.
Old 05-06-2011, 10:10 AM
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Scott at Team Harco
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Never mind. I found this monster at work. This ought to do the trick.
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Old 05-06-2011, 11:58 AM
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pnbell
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I just did this not too long ago, and ended up goin to Sears. After finding no 36mm wrenches... I found an Craftsman Adjustable Beak Nose wrench that was just big enough. Ended up working great!!
Old 05-06-2011, 12:00 PM
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Hollywood D
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If you can't find one at a local shop, a tractor supply shop or somewhere that sells tools for tractors would have one. There's some huge bolts on those things.
Old 05-06-2011, 12:49 PM
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Scott at Team Harco
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Thanks for the help guys. I'll be trying the 1-7/16 wrench tonight. It should work just fine. It's only 0.5 mm larger than 36.
Old 05-06-2011, 01:00 PM
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mhr
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I purchased a huge adjustable wrench from the bargain section of a local Canadian tire. Worked well.

Had to use the breaker bar and floor jack trick to loosen the outside bolt to do the adjustment but that is a whole other story.
Old 05-10-2011, 06:22 PM
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968 GUY
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I had a problem with that deal also.
Found a trick to it if you have the car on jackstands. I put a jack on the plate and pushed it up a bit, and then just turned the nut, then let the jack down.
Now this is not the optimal way of doing this, because things will move around a bit more after you take the pressure off and it will take a couple of tries to get it set correctly.
I did get the ride height set to where I wanted it, know I eventually will need to adjust toe and caster, but want to wait til I replace bushings, bearings, etc.
pushing up the plate takes the pressure off and you can turn the outer nut almost by hand.
Old 05-10-2011, 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Scott at Team Harco
Tried to fix the ride height problem on Stu last night.

What a fiasco. The eccentric bolt has a 36 mm head on it. With the tools I had available to me - I could not get a good grip on the bolt. And since I didn't want to remove the rear anti-sway bar - there was very little space to maneuver in there.

I'm looking into buying a 36 mm wrench, just for this task. Does anyone have a lead on where to look? I'm thinking a stop at Harbor Freight might be in order.
Hey Scott,

If need be just let me know and I can send you a loaner wrench and or 3/4 drive impact 34mm socket. My Dad retired from cotton farming. I have ALL kinds of big sockets.

You could just bring it back to me at 944fest hopefully.

michael
Old 05-10-2011, 07:00 PM
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944Ross
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Originally Posted by 968 GUY
.... you can turn the outer nut almost by hand.
Something isn't right if this is the case!
Old 05-10-2011, 07:13 PM
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Jfrahm
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I found a way to use a piece of square stock to lock the suspension. I do not recall exactly what I did but I recall having the car on stands, jacking up the trailing arm, inserting the square stock in such a way as to hold the blade thingy that splines into the torsion bar and then lower the trailing arm. The stock gets held in place by the torsion bar which normally forces the training arm all the way down and puts pressure on the training arm too.

With the suspension locked but not at full downward travel the 36mm adjuster bolt can be turned without fighting the torsion bar.

Jack up the trailing arm again to release the trapped piece of square stock.

36mm wrenches can be found for bicycles or ford fan clutches. If you loosen the locknut before jamming the suspension and torque it afterward you need not put a lot of torque on the 36mm side so a cheap bike wrench will do.

Mark the position of your suspension first before loosening anything, as the adjuster might turn when you mess with the other parts.

-Joel.
Old 05-11-2011, 08:48 AM
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I'm making progress with this. I modified the 1-7/16 wrench by grinding the box end so it is thinner. Rear ride height is increased from where it was when I got the car. I think it still needs to go a little higher.

Discovered a couple of worn parts while it was on a friend's hoist yesterday. Once those parts are replaced, I'll be working to get ride height and alignment where it needs to be. Then I'll probably want to replace the shocks and struts.
Old 05-11-2011, 04:47 PM
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Ross... once the pressure is off the outer blade(for lack of better name right now), there is nothing holding the eccentric and it will turn easily.
I did mention that this was not the optimal way to do it, but I had to get it done and couldn't find a 36mm or equiv. wrench. It does work, just takes a little more time to get things right.
Old 05-11-2011, 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by 968 GUY
Ross... once the pressure is off the outer blade(for lack of better name right now, there is nothing holding the eccentric and it will turn easily.
I did mention that this was not the optimal way to do it, but I had to get it done and couldn't find a 36mm or equiv. wrench. It does work, just takes a little more time to get things right.
Unless the eccentric clamps down hard on the trailing blade when the nut is tightened, it will be free to change to whatever position it likes. Are you saying yours can be turned by hand with the outer nut tight?
Old 05-11-2011, 07:19 PM
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Scott, that's an awfully nice wrench to go at with a grinder!
Old 05-12-2011, 06:33 AM
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Ross...No,


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