Navy'sporsche

Hello all. I've been considering buying a 944 to start taking to the track. I'll need to start with NASA's HPDE's so this wont be a full stripped down race car. Yet...

Question is, what would you purchase with an initial $5500? I was thinking a $4000 1988, ideally with some reputable engine re-work, install a 83' manual rack and some tires and use the lose change to tackle my first HPDE.

Assuming I like it and want to continue (damn near guaranteed) I'll slowly go from there.

A question I have is: assuming I find a car with high miles but good service records, do I need to worry about a 944 engine catastrophe or simply a gradual "wearing out"? Mileage recommendations to stay under?

xsboost90

i would worry about the maintenance and service "recent" history of the car more than milage. Obviously the lower the better but a well maintained 944 is well capable of 300+k milage. Im building a NASA spec car right now. Just bought an 87 944 8v for $3500 from a car lot. Most spec guys buy an early car 86 or earlier and get it real cheap, gut it and race. Since you want a car for the track, most things dont matter much like interior and such.

if you want to run spec make sure you get a 2.5l 8v car.

originalmotorhead

go to 944spec.com and see if anyone has a spare race car for sale. there have been a few 'almost ready' race cars for not much more then the $ you have.

guess it depends on if you want to build it or just drive it. There are tons of cheap 944's on craigslist for 2grand or less.

Tom

seafeye

I think there are plenty of $1500 cars. And good cars at that. Just rough interior and paint. As long as the car runs well then that's all you really need. Then you will have funds to do the Koni conversion, springs, seats etc....
Here is a link to a guys build and he isn't much above your $5500. You may be able to find a nasa spec car for that.

http://www.944spec.com/944SPEC/forum...-new-car-build

http://www.944spec.com/944SPEC/forum...-updated-21709

TexasRider

^^^^^^^^^

Both those are good answers. Motor work, cage, interior, much less wheels and tires and suspension can eat more than 5500 quickly.

Navy'sporsche

Thanks for the replies, they are encouraging. I'm not interested in buying an already built race car. While I know it would likely save money, I dont have the resources (read truck) to tow a dedicated track car right now (that comes next). Additionally, part of the fun is the build anyway.

So it sounds like find an 86 or earlier car that has the right balance between "runs well" and "cheap"

TexasRider

Yeah dont do like I did if you want to race the car. I bought one that was so good that I cant cut it up now. So I too am looking for another car.

M758

$5500... heck that could get you a complete log book race car with at least one set of old, but workable rubber.

If you were close to Az I could direct you to a track ready street 944 for well under your price. Track ready meaning it was run in HPDE for a 7-8 months until the driver bought a complete race ready 944 spec.

Realisticly you can get alot of car for a $5500.

Best thing is to get tub to start with. Prices range from $500 for one that needs alot of building to a max of $4000. Any $4000 street car will probably be too nice for a track car donor. So unless is has been a track car with track oriented reliablity mods/maintence and or suspension don't spend more that 3000-3500 for stock car. It just won't be worth it.

88 is nice year for the motor and the 5th gear, but they nice to haves. The 5th gear ratio in 924S and 88 944 is pretty much required at any track you use 5th, but for DE it makes not differnece. Changing one out is not a big deal once you start racing.

The slight compression boost of the 88 motor is nice too, but having drivng both lower compresson motors and higher compression motors there is little real differnece. There more variation just getting a solid motor and if you have had the head freshened. So if you come accross and 88 or car iwth 10.2:1 pistons great, but is not required by any means.


As for age... Miles don't make that much of a difference. Motors can soften over time, but most just need a fresh head work. That is rather basic operation involving your local head shop. This just restores stock power. Sometimes you may need new rings and those are not hard to do either. In rare cases blocks can be damaged beyond what is cost effective to repair. That is rather rare.


As fars as maintence you can do alot or a little. Good advice to is to replace the rod bearings on any older motor you plan to start tracking. I replace the rob bearings in my 944 Turbo Street car with 142k miles and they were perfect. (I did it because I was in there for pan gasket leak). Even so I have seen many old junkyard motor spin bearings so replace them to give you back margin. Also I recommend a high quality 15-50 or 20w 50 oil. Some get by with 10-40, but I prefer the thicker oil to ensure longevity of the rod bearings. Always make sure the oil is full, but not overfull at the start of each session. These motors on track do not consume oil if working perfectly, but most that have not be rebuilt have some oil leaks that get worse on track. So that means oil consupion increases and if you don't watch it oil levels can drop.

Other than that you need to consider the cooling system. Old hoses, water pumps and clogged up radiators can be a pain. These systems all work fine on the track if are working correctly, but alot of street cars can get by with marginal systems only see them fail at the track.

Of course new brakes are probably needed as well as tires and possibly shocks.

Stock the suspension is too soft for the track, but works ok. Once lightened and brough up race spring rates the cars are MUCH more responsive.

JimV8

Agreed with all the above. Buy a race car.

TexasRider

^^^^^^^^^^^

Great and helpful post from a man that knows!

Let me say thanks too for all you do on this board and for these cars Joe.

mytrplseven

that looks like Jimmy Clark in a Lotus? Not sure but I loved those earlier F-1 cars. They were pure, uncluttered and wonderful to listen to.

mclaudio

I would recommend buying a sorted race car...if it's really sorted and the prep is reputable. If so, then it would likely be less expensive than building one. Before I would track a car, I'd make sure that it is prepped safely/properly, so take this into consideration and do your homework. This is one advantage of building one yourself. I bought an old race car with a restored body and then I had the mechanicals rebuilt.

Regarding your comment about trailering, etc., I believe spec cars can technically still be street driven. I have a Cup car that is street driven once in a while.

Lastly, an 88 drivetrain (engine/tranny) in an earlier body would be ideal.

odurandina

somebody getting out will part with their trackday car for very short money. like a gentleman a few weeks ago,

while, you'll easily spend 2~3 times that and a lot of shoptime getting a street car ready for track duty.