mytrplseven

Just covering all bases. Does the engine have to be supported or lifted a bit? I looked at some pics on Pelican of some "jury rigged" assemblies that looked sufficient but begs the question: does the front and rear engine support brackets have to be attached to support or simply the front one? Darn shame so much of the suspension components have to be dropped or removed.

Mike C.

You have to lower or remove the cross member in order to get the pan off. This requires unbolting the two motor mounts (left and right, there are only two), and supporting the engine from above. You will also have to disconnect the steering from the rack. It's not that hard to remove the lower ball joint pinch bolt and rear control arm mount bolts. The tie rod ends need a puller or you'll ruin the rubber seals with a fork. Unbolt cross member from body and lower ir down with hydraulic jack, move it out of the way. No way around it, sorry.

Darwantae951

You don't need to remove the steering rack. I accomplished this by lowering the steering rack and removing the crossmember.

whalebird

Confirm where it's leaking from before you dig in. It's not running down from the rear cam housing seal? The cork one on the rear cam housing. Possibly the crankcase breather thingy on the driver's side/rear of the motor?

mytrplseven

We looked up under the car at the rear engine seal area while it was on a lift. Didn't pull the shield plate yet. While the engine was shutoff for about 10 minutes, continued to see dripping oil from that area. Shop recommended pulling the shield to see if it's definitely the pan rear seal or the crank rear seal. Haven't gotten to it yet. is the cross member so heavy that it requires a floor jack to move it?

krystar

cross member itself is light. but it has the entire weight of engine resting on it....

John_AZ

RMS -rear main seal.

Has the clutch been done?

Whalebird mentioned the cork gasket on the cam housing. Below the cork gasket is the rear of the balance shaft housing. The rear "O" ring deterioates and leaks. Very common.

GL
John

M758

I have always done the oil pan gasket using an engine hoist to hold the engine. I also pull the steering rack from at least one end as leaving it place leaves you not room to lay on the ground to get to all 22 oil pan gasket bolts. BTW... it is a good idea to change rod bearings while the pan is off.

Mike C.

Unfortunately, it can be impossible to distinguish between a rear pan gasket leak and RMS with everything in place. And unless you pull the engine it would be tough to both at the same time (maybe with an engine lift). But like John said, you do want to check those other potential leak points first.

Fintro11

i think my oil pan is leaking also

99% sure its coming from the oil pan

mytrplseven

I'll have to get a good inspection mirror and really do a more thorough job of inspecting around the engine, top and bottom and find the source but the oil was definitely leaking around the rear of the engine RMS area. I'll pull the shield there and really check it out. Car will need clutch and front belts/water pump down the road and I'm just doing one thing at a time. If it's the RMS then I'll do the clutch a bit earlier than I planned. Good thing is, I just love working on cars and this is my 3rd 944.

supes6

Mine's been leaking as well.. I just ordered all the parts to do the gasket and the rod bearings, along with the gasket retainer brackets. Trying to decide now if it'll be easier to just pull the engine..

krystar

might be. replacing bearings on an engine stand is certainly easier than doing it on your back upsidedown.