hp18racer

I like to slot the bell housing so that the crank sensors can be installed before the bell housing goes on. Much easier to set them with the bell housing off, next time they don't have to come out at all.

If the shaft in the torque tube pushes out just a little the coupler bolts can get their threads peeled off on the drive shaft when you try to thread them in. If you put the coupler on the torque tube first you can pry against the coupler to get the groove to line up to put the coupler bolt in at the trans end.

Clark's garage says to put the trans mount bolts in before bolting the trans to the torque tube. I like to do it the other way around.

pnbell

I successfully installed my Clutch this weekend! Long Long Job... Took around 21 hours, 15 of them were yesterday until 11:45pm... ugh

And almost all of those hours were spent laying on my back under a car which was maybe 16" off the ground... *Need A Lift*

Long Story Short:

At 190k+ Miles my Rubber Clutch finally blew up! I have no idea when it was installed, the clutch disc was actually pretty worn and would have had to be replaced soon due to wear (had the rubber center not exploded)

New Clutch Works Great! No more driveline slack, or vibration. The missing chucks of rubber must have screwed up the Balance of the assembly because Vibration at Idle is much better!

Although a very VERY long weekend project, there was almost no frustration. No Broken Bolts, No Seized Nuts.., The Clutch Fork Shaft basically fell out with little effort, I was able to just pick up and carry the Transmission around.

The one Thing the really "P'd Me Off" was (last night around 11pm; very tired) trying to install the Ground Wires on the top of the Bell Housing... Eventually I got so Pissed that I made a new engine grounding location on the top of my engine! Funny Part is my car works better with this new ground location. Before every time i would do anything electrical (Turn on Light, Radio, Turn Signals, Windows) my Temp gauge would jump. Now this does not happen, and i feel like my Headlights are brighter?!! (For the Record I had Previously Cleaned these grounds)

My one main concern is that my New Rear Main Seal will leak... I do not want to do this job again soon..

So there it is; Weekend Clutch Job on a 944na

Will Post a Couple Pictures soon

mytrplseven

I don't mean to sound ignorant but what is a cheese-head bolt? what do they look like and what special tools are you guys referring to?

John_AZ

Cheesehead is a nickname for the 12 Point bolts, also referred to as "Triple Square"

You have to get a set to remove the CV bolts and the FW (fly wheel) bolts on the car.

Usually AZ (AutoZone or O'Reilly/Checker will carry the brand Leslie. Leslie is very cheap and may only last a couple of bolts before the tool fails.

Go at least to Craftsman quality or better is SnapOn or other major supplier.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/tools...e=snapon-store

GL
John

genikz

I had trouble with the upper two bell housing bolts. I ended up putting a jack in under the engine crossmember, and loosening the four crossmember bolts about 1/2 inch. I then lowered the engine that 1/2 inch, which was just enough to get a tool on the bolts.

The torque tube was disconnected by that point of course.

USE THIS TECHNIQUE AT YOUR OWN RISK.

John_AZ

OR

2 feet of extensions and the universal metric socket.

John