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Clutch Replacement Advice

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Old 04-04-2011, 01:27 PM
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pnbell
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Question Clutch Replacement Advice

Well for a while i have noticed my car has these symptoms:
*These are ALL much worse since last weekend* (JohnKoaWood/ramius665 -Maybe you remember me saying that my tranny seemed wierd and noisy the other weekend..? Ha ha)

*Jerking forward and backward when Accelerating and Decelerating quickly or at low speeds.

*Around 3k rpms my shifter has an extreme vibration; like a hand massager.

*The transmission makes a rattling noise around 3K rpms.

*Shifting at High Rpms is very difficult; sometimes impossible.

*Sometimes while shifting I hear a Metal Clunk noise when releasing the clutch.

*Last but not least: I am able to grab and rotate my torque tube back and forth with the transmission in neutral...

OK the above are Rubber Clutch Failure Symptoms! (My car has around 190k miles on it...? Weird that i still have a Rubber Clutch)

Now I need Advice from you with 944 Clutch replacement experience

I will be doing the job myself next weekend or following (with my brothers help actually) and need to know: What parts i Need, Which parts i should Replace, What tools are Necessary, and Where to buy/best kits to buy.

The Oblivious Parts:

Clutch Disc
Pressure Plate
Throw out Bearing/Guide Tube
Pilot Bearing
Flywheel Bolts
RMS Seal (Flywheel Seal ? -per Pelican)
The Obvious Tools:
Flywheel Lock
Clutch Alignment Tool
Cheese Heads for CVs
Torque Wrench

*Should i replace:
Master and or Slave Cylinder?
Shift Fork Lever Bearings?

*Any Tips are welcome: For this job? RMS Replacement? Anything really?

Thanks Everyone! I am looking forward to this!

p.s. I will be doin the job just South of Baltimore MD; if anyone wants to stop by, or let me borrow tools
Old 04-04-2011, 01:31 PM
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JohnKoaWood
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Sounds to me like a dead clutch...

Get the clutch and hardware kits, the hardware kit comes with new fork bearings.

Don't forget the exhaust gaskets..

You are welcome to use my special tools, although I am still looking for my cheese head socket...

RMS, all depends on how you feel.. I didn't do mine, and haven't had any problems with it.. however I would hate to do the clutch, have the seal start to leak, only to have to tear it all apart again...

AND

FWIW, next 944 clutch I do.. I am pulling the engine out as opposed to removing the rest of the drive train!
Old 04-04-2011, 01:34 PM
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pnbell
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I Actually blame my clutch on you John... It was just after following you to Aaron's House that the issue got this bad! You have done a clutch job right?
Old 04-04-2011, 01:38 PM
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JohnKoaWood
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Originally Posted by pnbell
I Actually blame my clutch on you John... It was just after following you to Aaron's House that the issue got this bad! You have done a clutch job right?
LMAO.. Yes in fact I did the clutch in the car you were following....

IIRC I got everything from Paragon...

http://www.paragon-products.com/Clut...t_p/944cak.htm

http://www.paragon-products.com/Clut...116.911.00.htm

Excellent time to repack the CVs, and address the trans mount!
Old 04-04-2011, 01:45 PM
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pnbell
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Ok weill i might give you a call if have questions along the way... Do you have Clutch Alignment tool, and or Flywheel lock I could borrow?
Old 04-04-2011, 01:59 PM
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No need for a flywheel lock at all. Only special tool you need is the alignment tool (ford 04), and the 8mm and 12mm triple square bits and a torque wrench.
Old 04-04-2011, 02:39 PM
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944Ross
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You also need a set of metric hex bits for the coupler. A couple cans of brake cleaner to get the cheeseheads on the axle cleaned out before loosening.

I highly recommend doing the RMS, especially with your mileage. Get the brown one (Elring fluorelastomer) from 944online. If you do it, you'll need something to drive it in, you can search for how to use a 4" PVC screwplug for this. If you can find a suitable piece of pipe, it would surely work better (but watch out for nicking the crank).

The Ford alignment tool is too short to be effective IMO. I got a driveshaft piece one of the dismantlers in Calif. sells on eBay, they are twice as long and of course fit right. (Hate to see driveshafts sacrificed, but..). Very much worth it. You don't want to be fighting the TT by the time you get there!

If you aren't using a lift, a motorcycle jack is absolutely perfect for raising/lowering the trans.
Old 04-04-2011, 03:15 PM
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The ford tool is the one I have used on every porsche with the exception of the boxster/996 which requires a smaller one. If you aren't using it correctly and making sure it is always smooth as you tighten down the pressure plate, then you will have issues. It works perfectly fine.
Old 04-04-2011, 03:22 PM
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944Ross
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No doubt there are different Ford tools; the one that came with my last 944 kit had the finger-ring on the end almost against the release bearing.
Old 04-04-2011, 05:41 PM
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pnbell
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ok Thanks guys!

So i placed an order today for:

Clutch Disc
Pressure Plate
Throwout Bearing
Release Bearing Guide x1
Clutch Pilot Bearing x1
Clutch Lever Bearings x2
Rear Crank Seal x1
Pressure Plate Bolts x9
Flywheel Bolts x9
Clutch Alignment Tool x1
Trans Fluid

Did not get exhaust gaskets cause i just replaced them months ago. I have an oil filter at home. I will be gathering up and accounting for me tools this week. I do have a Transmission Jack, and will be cleaning up the CV Bolts this week before i start.

What did i Forget?
Old 04-08-2011, 11:45 AM
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pnbell
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Quick (stupid) Question:

You don't have to Drain Engine Oil right? I assume since the RMS is above the oil pan there is no reason too... (I think I just answered my own question...)
Old 04-08-2011, 11:56 AM
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No, there's no oil there as long as the engine is pretty level.
Old 04-08-2011, 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by pnbell
Quick (stupid) Question:

You don't have to Drain Engine Oil right? I assume since the RMS is above the oil pan there is no reason too... (I think I just answered my own question...)
No you do not have to drain/change the oil. make sure you bag and mark your bolts as you go. Put tags on the speed and ref sensors, and the starter wires if your not real familiar with it. The connections on the tranny are plug specific, even I could not get them mixed up.

Its a good time to change the tranny fluid (I see you got some already) clean it up good, and maybe rework the tranny mount (wish I would have done that now).

Use a good hammer to wake up the cheese head bolts before you try to remove them. And as stated earlier, GET A DECENT SET OF THESE INTERNAL WRENCH TOOLS, DO NOT EVEN THINK ABOUT 'MAKING DO' WITH TORQ HEAD TOOLS. I used a set from autozone, cheese head, and they worked ok; but before I remove the tranny from the dirver again or the parts car I am ordering a good (maybe snap-on) set of those tools before I do another one.

Take your time, don't take as much time as I did, but take your time.

Good luck and keep us posted.

michael
Old 04-08-2011, 12:18 PM
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Great thanks for confirming. ( I just changed my oil a few weeks ago)

I am Mentally preparing for the Clutch Marathon, Running through the steps in my head, Checklisting tools, doing Push-Ups! Ha ha!!

Installed the Throw-Out bearing onto the Pressure plate last night.

T minus 21 hours to Mission Launch!
Old 04-08-2011, 12:57 PM
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Enjoy it and have fun.

A few tips that I can add:
-Disconnect any engine related plugs prior to lifting the car up.
-This is a great time to clean the ground cable area on the bellhousing
-Use this opportunity to repack your CV joints
-Replace the RMS while your in there
-Get some drill bits for the flywheel bolts...they can be a PITA and usually strip
-enjoy it and have patience


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