Funn944

Do the bellhousing mod ( cutout for the sensors ) while you have it apart.

F40LM

Yes good one. I did it and it made the re-install of the sensors much easier.

Will try to attach the pic someone else posted of this in case it's new to you.

Again get good interenal wrench bits.

F40LM

And like I said if I had it to do over I would have refreshed the tranny mounts per this:

http://importnut.net/motormount.htm

pnbell

Great thanks for the tips and pics; I will try to accomplish both of these mods.

hamlin

For a great deal on the clutch kit from Sachs, clutch disc, pp and throw out bearing and alignment tool with Sachs grease for the TT shaft, do to Amazon.com. I got a great deal on a Sachs kit for my S2.

I would also use the Elring RMS, it is the only one that has sealing material the whole thickness of the outer seal. Kraco doens not and the Victor Reinz does not.

hamlin

use the Snap-On cheese (triple square) head sockets, they are the best quality I have found.

hamlin

do a search on RMS replacement

John_AZ

Good luck.

Since most of the "tips" covered the procedure, I will focus on the steps that may cause you delay or serious problems.

Rear clutch linkage. Bolt with security wire. Remove and bag. Replace and do not overtorque.

Trans coupler. You better have an expensive set of metric hex. If the bolt head strips, your in trouble.

Lowering/raising the transaxle. I use a floor jack with a modified adapter. HF has an adapter that works well.

I suggest you pull the reference sensors out first thing. If you have trouble with this step, it is better to find out early. With the sensors out you do not have to remove/unbolt the sensor bracket.

Pilot bearing remover tool. Some find it necessary. I use a DIY tool= long bolt ground at head.

RMS tool. I use a 4" PVC screw cap with the bottom sanded smooth and the inside cut out to clear the crankshaft. OIL THE SEAL & Crankshaft prior to install.

Send the FW to a machine shop to grind. A PP & FW balance is a good idea.

TT-once it is free, spin the shaft -----what does it sound like???

Repack all 4 CVs with proper grease.

Wear a resperator when you work around the fiberglass/asbestos frayed heat sheild. Protect your lungs.

If the shift rod foam sound absorber is trash, get a good used ~$20

These are a few of the serious problems that may cause delay.

OH, Top drivers side bolt on bell housing. Get 2 feet of extensions and a universal metric socket for the head. You will see the problem.

GL
John

PeteL

Loosen the pressure plate bolts before removing them. Go all the way around, maybe even a few times, until they come out.
Don't take them out one at a time.

hamlin

Get the car up a minimum of 22" this is important. I used a motorcycle lift and 2x4's to drop and lift the transaxle as a 1 person job.

Go to the clutch replacement procedure

http://www.clarks-garage.com/

Mark Hubley

A few of things I remember from doing this on an '86 NA five years ago:

The bolts holding the "downpipe" (???) of my exhaust to the headers were totally rusted. I ended up using a grinding wheel to remove those bolts. That really sucked.

I think it was the same bolt on the top of the bellhousing that John_AZ mentioned that also gave me fits.

I'm not sure of the proper terms here, but getting the driveshaft and tranny input shaft back together was a bitch.

F40LM

DITTO to the driveshaft and tranny shaft, IIRC do not tighten the tranny bell housing bolts until you have this lined up and coupled together. You will need the wiggle room and be patient. 1/1000 of an inch off may as well be a foot.

John_AZ

^^
If you have trouble getting the drive shaft into the pilot bearing------this normally happens when you want to bolt the TT to the bell housing, 1/2" of frustration....

Put the slave on the bell housing and either have your friend press the clutch pedal a little or use a stick between the seat and clutch pedal. This frees the clutch disc and the shaft will slide in the pilot bearing.

GL
John

944Ross

I think you definitely want the rear BH and tranny together on the alignment dowels before you try to do the coupler. The dowels lock everything in proper position. JMO...

KuHL 951

My $.02 worth since most of the other crux points were well covered...never loosen the TA bolts until the coupler is slid free of the splines and vice versa. A Harbor Freight floor jack trans adapter is worth it's weight in gold for final alignment and controlling. If you have a problem with that top bellhousing bolt, loosen a motor mount and drop the engine a bit on that side. Check back when your hands look like you've been grooming badgers for a living.