Yummybud924

i've taken teh timing belt and water pump out and I have a tensioner stud (oil pump stud) from teh dealer but i'm not sure if it will be the right lenght for my car. It has a portion that is not threaded but my old stud looks like it is threaded all the way.

anyways the dealer says they have never heard of a 944 with a broken tensioner stud. but there are a few people here who have had their studs snap and clarks recommends it.

but i'm worried that when I go to try and take it out i'll snap the stud.

the nut on the stud that is tightened against the block has loctite on it (I put loctite on it) and i'm scared when I go to loosen it it will break the stud and then i'll be screwed.

i'm guessing most of the people who have had studs break had teh tensioner stud overtightened by a lot.

the stud is pretty thick it's not very easy to break.

smokin_944

What year is the car?

Yummybud924

85.5 with new dash style.

John_AZ

There have been a few posts on the length of the oil pump tension stud.

I have not seen an answer to the short stud.

If I recall the OEM stud should be 106mm and the studs sold are 100mm.

944online (RL sponsor) sells the replacement stud. Ian and Jamie are usually the ones to talk to.

Please post if you find the solution or if the 100mm stud works.

http://www.944online.com/cgi-bin/ASI...gineblock-9442

GL
John

Joe Jackson

They do break. Years ago I believe it happened to Clark Fletcher (of Clark's Garage) and it also happened to a friend a few years ago. The design of the stud to block interface traps corrosion and the corrosion weakens the stud.

Replacement is straightforward. The stock is Loctite'd in place and the new stud needs to be as well. The shop manuals detail the procedure but note that you do not bottom the stud in the hole. It threads in quite far (hiding the unthreaded portion) but you need to leave enough stud sticking out to be able to properly secure the tensioner.

Heat would help removal of the stud to break the Loctite bond but simply double-nutting it suffice for me. Be sure to properly torque the locknut that threads onto the stud before the tensioner. You risk the stud backing out if it's not properly secured.

Yummybud924

I already have th stud I got it from the dealer. clarks says the shorter stud was for the pre 84 cars........

i'm worried about breaking the stud when going to remove it.

the nut that fastens it against the block (behind tensioner) was put on with loctite by me cus it backed out .

i'm just worried i'll snap the stud when trying to remove it and then it'll be a nightmare.

Joe Jackson

100mm studs are likely sold by aftermarket suppliers because they can buy them from any well-stocked metric hardware supplier. PET lists the same stud for all 944's 1982-1986. You can probably get away with the 100mm stud but it won't be engaged as much as the Porsche stud. Porsche is very conservative on thread engagement in comparison to Japanese car makers (in my experience). Porsche tends to 2X diameter of thread engagement whereas Japanese cars are more likely to have 1.5X.

Joe Jackson

What Loctite did you use? If you used red (271 IIRC) then heat the stud during removal. If you used anything else, dont worry about the stud breaking.

John_AZ

Yummybud924,

Can you tell me what the length of the dealer stud is and the cost.

What year car do you have?

I did reread Clarks information on the stud.
Clarks mentions the stud length for the early cars is 106mm.

(quote)
3 - All 944s up through the 1986 model year used the eccentric roller tensioner and tensioner stud. The Porsche part number is for a stud that is 101 mm long.

But, the earliest 944s used a tensioner stud that is actually 106 mm long. It appears that this stud is not available from Porsche. It's is also unclear as to what the exact cutoff date is as to when use of the shorter 101 mm stud began. However, it may have started when Porsche went to a different style oil pump in the middle of the 1984 model year. (end quote)

Thanks
John

Yummybud924

my car is an 85.5. I got it from the my local porsche parts dealer and they had to order one in and they said they had never ordered one. it cost less than 10 bucks I forget the exact cost.

I haven't measured it I'll see if I can find a ruler to measure it.


I loosened teh nut now I am going to try and double nut the stud to see if it comes loose.....i'm just scared of applying too much pressure or using a breaker bar and snaping the stud before it breaks loose.

I sprayed it with pb blaster an hour ago also.

I was thinking of double nuting it with red loctite then using a socket and a breaker bar to try and break the stud loose.

i'm going ot try a wrench first but i don't think I can put enough torque on a wrench to get it loose.

thekidd

So what was your luck? Im having a similar problem. My cam belt tensioning nut and stud threads got stripped. How stuck was the stud in the block? How did you end up takinbg it out? My thread on this is called "cam tensioner nut just spins "

Yummybud924

i read your thread but I was confused on what is actually wrong with your car.

if you need to take the stud out just double nut it and remove it with a wrench.

mine came out pretty easily and others who removed that stud didn't seem to have had much trouble with the double nut method.

so you stripped the stud? seems pretty difficult to strip the stud....

Yummybud924

sorry forgot to measure it but my new stud was teh exact same length as the old one but my car is an 85.5 model i've heard the 83/84 used a longer stud/different oil pump so this stud would not work on the earlier cars.

John_AZ

Thanks for the reply.
John