Motor mounts and fuel lines
#16
Rainman
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because the balance shafts dont really do anything functional at idle
#18
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I still can't see how everyone says the solid units suck. Mine lasted until I put my new engine n and switched to semi-solids. Sims also said they have only ever warranted two pairs of the solid rubber mounts, and no one has comeback to complain about themfailng after warranty.
#19
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I have the Uro mounts and they aren't bad on an NA. The only time I notice a difference is when trolling at 45 in 5th to shut off the upshift light, and try to accelerate. It is noticeable until I get to around 50.
#20
Burning Brakes
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Mine aren't broken, but they're not smooth, either.
I thought the balance shafts were FOR low speeds. And why does a Porsche motor with Mitsubishi balance shaft technology vibrate so much when a 2.4l Mitsubishi with balance shafts vibrate so much less?
I thought the balance shafts were FOR low speeds. And why does a Porsche motor with Mitsubishi balance shaft technology vibrate so much when a 2.4l Mitsubishi with balance shafts vibrate so much less?
#22
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OK wow, motor mounts are meant to be 65 mm mine measure 58mm height.
Guess that was the issue, took 2 hrs to drop the subframe, not to bad.
Well I'm in here I was thinking of changing the oil cooler orings, what is this about special tools required? Can I do it without?
Thanks
Guess that was the issue, took 2 hrs to drop the subframe, not to bad.
Well I'm in here I was thinking of changing the oil cooler orings, what is this about special tools required? Can I do it without?
Thanks
#23
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Changing the oil cooler o-rings, depending on model year, may require a special alignment tool for re-installing the housing. Seeing as your car is an early 85 car, you probably have the three piece OPRV, which will require the tool. Purpose of the tool is so the housing can be aligned so the OPRV will not bind inside the block. If you are lucky and have the one piece conversion OPRV, you may be able to get away with using the OPRV itself to align the housing.
OPRV is the oil pressure relief valve.
OPRV is the oil pressure relief valve.
#24
Proprietoristicly Refined
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Get an early alignment tool or the OPRV may bind.
Get the aluminum crush washers for the OPRV or it will drip.
Do you have the early or late oil cooler housing? Not sure? Maybe search is a good idea.
GL
John
#25
Three Wheelin'
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Location: Hawkinsville / Perry, Georgia, RETIRED USAF GO BLUE
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It is still recommended to use the Alignment Tool for changing the NA Oil Cooler O-Rings. There are actually two different Tools, one for the early 944's up to + 86 NA and one for 87 NA on. By not using the Alignment Tool you run the risk of the O-Ring and OPRV not seating properly. It is already hard enough to change it out with the engine still in the car to risk having to do it all over again. The below link on ebay shows the two different tools.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Porsche-944-Oil-...item19c28eedb5
Cheers,
Larry
http://cgi.ebay.com/Porsche-944-Oil-...item19c28eedb5
Cheers,
Larry
Last edited by Grandpa#3; 02-22-2011 at 01:37 AM. Reason: add
#26
Rainman
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i would like to make another note in this thread regarding the rennbay fuel lines for posterity:
they are excellent in appearance and manufacture and could not be simpler to install. my previous comment about them being cut long is an understatement; i gave them an additional 4 or so inches below the factory crimps to attach and the feed line was still a few inches "long". not an issue but if you want it to appear factory, cut further down the hard line...
they are excellent in appearance and manufacture and could not be simpler to install. my previous comment about them being cut long is an understatement; i gave them an additional 4 or so inches below the factory crimps to attach and the feed line was still a few inches "long". not an issue but if you want it to appear factory, cut further down the hard line...