All is good after water pump, timing belt, new idlers, main seal, fuel filter, reference sensor, plugs, cap/rotor, O2, hood shocks, etc, etc.......

So far Porsche ownership has been nothing but $F$U$N$!

At least it easy to work on, my old boss asked for a favor and dropped off a '99 ford pickup at my house for new brake lines (hard lines). WTF couldn't they just make this **** from stainless steel in the first place!

ANYWAY

The car is an early '85 ( I love the dash ) and drives fine but has a really bad off idle vibration, Looking thru old posts Motor mounts seem to be the fix. Its only vibrates just off idle and then smooths out, motor does not seem to move around to much? NO CLUNK. I've found motor mounts from $30 to $300. What kind should I buy? Obviously the porsche factory ones don't last very long.

Also I'm scared of this fuel line thing I Keep hearing about but there doesn'ts seem to be a good fix fo the early cars, my lines come from the drives side not anywhere near the exhaust like everyone talks about. Where do they bust? What is the best replacement?

Thank you for you feed back.

Douglas

 

I would have to disagree that factory mounts don't last. It seems most people have problems with the aftermarket solid rubber ones. If you want to know for sure if the problem is your MMs, there is a measurement you can take to see if they are out of spec. They are hydraulic, and if they crack, they collapse.

As far as fuel lines go, the main problem is on later cars with the small rubber line from the damper to the rail. There was actually a recall by Porsche. Don't know of any fuel line issues on early cars. Just inspect them and make sure there is no cracking or fuel leaking at crimp points, connections, etc...

 

The Porsche mounts don't last? 28 years isn't enough?

I agree with the Darwin, above for your problem.

 

my 1987 924s has motor mounts that are still in spec but the fuel jumper was cracked (not leaking yet)

 

Douglas,

Get Rein, Corteco, or (real) Porsche OEM motor mounts. No ebay, Hamburg Technic, Deutsche Parts, URO, ....++++ a total waste of money and time.

Fuel lines.
Since you seem to have experience, Bruce at Arnnworx has DIY info:
http://www.arnnworx.com/fuel_lines.htm
http://www.arnnworx.com/catalog/inde...53f20bada4311c

You should check to see if the fuel line jumper was changed on the recall:
http://nhthqnwws111.odi.nhtsa.dot.go...-90V061-NN.PDF

You can get kits at Rennbay:
http://www.rennbay.com/-c-35.html?os...38603733bb693e

GL
John

 

The recall for the jumper line how would you know if that was done or not on a car? Also will they still honor the recall?

 

Call a dealership, give them the VIN number, have them run a recal check on the VIN... might have to take it in, if you do, schedule it for an oil change as I have found the cheapest, best place to get the oil changed is the local Porsche dealership!

They can run the recall check while it is there, and take care of any issues for you at the same time!

And yes they are required by federal law to honor the recall if it has not yet been performed on the car... but chances are it has already been performed many moons ago!

 

Looking at the Arnnworx pics, my fuel lines look nothing like that, they come from the other side of the engine bay. SO it was just the newer cars that had this issue?

OK Rein or Coreco it is, I will measure the stock ones first and see if they are out of spec. The $30 URO motor mounts seemed to good to be true.

I never had to change a motor mount before! Most of my old audi's had 300K + I have a quattro coupe right with 340k+ kms on it and the motor mounts are fine. So having to change them at 70k seems odd to me.

Thanks

 

Older Audi's used solid rubber motor mounts, these are filled hydraulic mounts... they collapse and die, hence the measurement to check them for fitness...

And yes, $30 uro motor mounts is an indication of something that isn't going to last... the correct ones are expensive for a reason, and yes they last just fine.

 

All of our cars have the chance of fuel line/fitting deterioation fires.

Your fuel lines are similiar to my 924Ss.
They come from under the brake booster.

I linked the Arnnworx page because you can get the parts to build your own.
Rennbay may be able to get you the lines you need.

Here is a MM (motor Mount) page that shows how to measure. You will be measuring the installed/compressed MMs. Use a wire squeezed between the top & bottom base----not the washers or 4mm shoulders.

GL
John

 

Say it would have cost $3 more per truck to do so. Ford made over 850,000 F series trucks in 1999. That's 2.5 million reasons why right there.


I bought the eBay mounts for my 944S, not knowing the difference, and won't do that again. I just saw $90 for two mounts and thought it was a good deal. They're better than the BLOWN mounts in my turbo, but they're buzzy...

 

FWIW, I ran the solid motoemounts for 6k miles and they were fine. I find it funny that the 944 crowd hates the solid units, but the 928 crowd can't waitto get rid of the hydraulic units.

You aren't going t have the jumper line on your car, so you don't have to worry about the recall. You should however keep an eye on our fuel lines if they are original.

 

Aren't the later Turbo Mount's all rubber? I seem to remember that being in my mind for some reason.

Solid mounts on these cars cause a ton of noise. And you can't exactly make a poly urethane filled mount of them either like the FWD cars. This motor vibes a lot and needs some sort of vibration damper at least a litte bit of rubber or urethane. That is my opinion so take it with a grain of salt. Although I will say new motor mounts makes the car more enjoyable in traffic haha.

 

why does a car with twin balance shafts vibrate so much anyway?

 

Because 90% of the time, they are out of time to each other and the crank.. or its having a fit...

My NA has factory replacement motor mounts, and a semi solid trans mount (avatar)... my 951 will be recieving semi solid trans and motor mounts!

Damn the vibration!