austin944

Is the water pump leak shown here within the bounds of "normal" leakage, or not? I am thinking it's not normal but wanted to get the opinions of the forum.

The pump is rebuilt and was installed 5 yrs and 35K miles ago. I pulled off the covers to replace the timing belt and noticed the green/dried coolant coming off the pump. The radiator has been leaking so I'm not sure how serious the WP leak might be.

944Ross

That's really not too bad; does the pump turn "too" easily, like very little resistance? I'd be tempted to clean off the green, and check when you do your re-tension. Some seals need to wear in initially, it may be from that.

austin944

The shaft turns smoothly and evenly, with moderate resistance, like it did when I got it. I can't spin it.

The belts have been re-tensioned about 15k miles ago with that pump on there, and I don't recall seeing the dried coolant at that time. So I'm thinking this leakage is more recent. I don't see anything leaking underneath the car coming out between the plastic cover and the engine.

Mike C.

I don't know what kind of coolant would leave residue like that. I think coolant would leave a film that is kind of slippery but not a build up. What does the coolant look like? Is it nasty looking? Wipe it off and look again after a few hundred miles.

944Ross

Traditional green ethylene glycol will do that when small amounts weep, especially if distilled water wasn't used for the fill. I have several hoses that develop that kind of crust over time. When they stay oily, it's leaking enough to get excited about.

What I meant was, if you are replacing the belt now, check it at re-tension in 1k miles. Or replace it now and fuggedaboutit. By all means do the turbo pump conversion with the slipper plate.

rgs944

What does the slipper plate do? Is that so pump seizure does not take out your timing belt?

Mike C.

Hmm I hadn't thought about mineral laden water.. Now that you mention it RGS, I see that the pump in question is not an updated variety with the belt guard (assuming slipper plate is another name for it). The idea is to prevent a loose timing belt from having the opposing teeth mesh and shear off where they get close at the water pump pulley. If the pump seizes, nothing will help you...

944Ross

Clark's has a good write-up on the conversion. You need to buy specific parts (rollers) to go with it, and there is an error in his parts list. I'll see if I can dig it up.

F18Rep

A pressure tester (maybe borrowed from AZ) is your friend....;] Bruce

BryO

If the pump is going, would you not hear a whine?

Mike C.

Not always. Maybe the seals go first (not because of excess shaft movement).

Elliot9

My old pump was leaking with no noise so I replaced it, but it wasn't spraying like that it was leaking down the front of the block. So I bought a new one, did the huge 1000 dollar timing belt, seals, and balance shaft belt service, put about 20 miles on the service, and now I'm parting the car out =)

944Ross

Sounds like you've got what the OP needs!

in my experience, once a seal starts leaking, the bearing soon follows. Pretty unusual for the seal on the front to go and not the one on the back side, so hot antifreeze is soon washing grease out of the bearing.

Elliot9

Shoot, if the OP wants my entire shortblock with ~80k on it with all the new parts it's his for the right price.