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Old 12-09-2010 | 01:10 PM
  #106  
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mark kibort
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This is not true. all axial flow blowers, create pressure and follow a specifc pressure vs air flow curve based on their design and power input, diameter and efficiency.

The eRAM depending on the version and power input, can produce as much as 2psi NET pressure to the intake. normally, the net change is 1psi with the standard eRAM. we have been doing this a long time and have a lot of equipment to test and verify this. we use sunx sensors at different places on the intake and air box to see net changes at WOT, at different vehicle speeds too.

Now as far as RAM pressure goes, with our race car we have done extensive testing here. too. care to guess what the max potential for ram is for your car? where is that pressure found. (location)??

max potential is near .08psi at 80mph and near .36psi at 160mph. (basica calcuations) its found at the nose and windshield base.
Think of the eRAM providing this kind of ram pressure when you are at launch at a drag strip at 5mph. pressure, matched with fuel gives the HP gains. its very close to proportional, as long as the air metering system can keep up, and sensitive enough. that is the bottom line here!

Mark

Originally Posted by krystar
the eram does not work and here's why. the eram is a blower fan. it blows CFM (cubic feet per minute). it does not create PSI. it does not have a seal.

compare eram to a turbocharger or a centrifigal supercharger (which is just a belt driven turbo) or a lynsholm supercharger, all of which have internal compression. 1 cubic foot of air draw into one of these units comes out at less than 1 cubic foot of air under pressure.

compare eram to a eaton/roots supercharger, which does not have internal compression. both do not compress the incoming air. however, the eaton/roots does have a seal preventing the output air from rushing backwards out of the intake manifold.

take an eram, connect it to a closed box, put a vac/boost gauge on the box (sealed of course). turn on the eram. u won't get a readable boost reading.
Old 12-09-2010 | 01:19 PM
  #107  
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Originally Posted by kombatrok
Nitrous has been used since the second world war... and there are plenty of engines that are built specifically to use it.

It is just as valid a power adder as turbo or supercharging.
Yep, you got it. Most that know me, know that i bolted on a NOS system too for a few years of racing. it was cool. I was the only one around that had done it when it was legal to do so with NASA. I could have 50hp, on all straights, and it lasted for 10 laps with a 10lb bottle. your right, this is no different but much less HP. (but less cost, and it still adds to this kind of power too, by near 3-6%)


Originally Posted by odurandina
our cars are not made for that ****. burns too hot, and it's the antithesis of engineering.

the philosophy here is to build. not run nitrous oxide.
Clearly, you dont undertand NOS. its just air, and really cold air at that.
you keep the ratios proper and its actually better for your engine than turning up a 944t boost, or bolting on big valve heads, headers and intakes. its really cold, which helps with the propagation of the flame front during combustion.
keep the ratios near 12:1, and its no problem for any engine that CAN handle the power.

Originally Posted by odurandina
+ 1,000,000.



that's what i've been saying. the alternator will be killing the gain.

for me there are 2 choices for the long miles i put on my car every year.


1. stay the course. change to LSx power. (waiting 'til the engine's dead).

2. turbocharging.
Also, you are not usin real science or logic here.
the alternator only charges the battery when the voltage drop is at levels below full charge. the more the current draw, the greater the voltage drop, the greate the charge rate. the max is limited by the alternator design, usually 80 to 110 amps. To run your car, the max current needed is about 10 amps for most street cars. in otherwords, put in an odyssey battery that weighs 14lbs and it will drive your car for about 1 hour before it dies if your alternator is removed. of course as the current comes out of the battery, the voltage decays as well. there are all sorts of curves and information on those principles.

The eRAM using the currernt burst from the battery is a non issue and doesnt effect HP gains. How do we know, 100s of dyno runs with an without using the cars battery , to show this principle.

Mark

Last edited by mark kibort; 12-09-2010 at 03:34 PM.
Old 12-09-2010 | 01:25 PM
  #108  
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Steve,

For something so simple, you dont seem to get it. see my last post regarding how an engine charging system works.

by the way, I raced with two eRAMS in parallel (120amps) for many years with no issues AND using a 14lb, 14 amp hour odessy battery.

So, these discussion degrade to a very low level, very quickly due to this kind of "sky is falling" misinformation. If you are going to post something, do make sure its somewhat correct, and dont come off like you know something you dont. we are just a bunch of guys just shooting the breeze here. keep it civil.

Mk

Originally Posted by KuHL 951
They seem to have a problem with even simple math and ohms law...per their web site 'it draws over 124 amps'. Yep that's what I want, a virtual dead shorted battery to blow up under the hood. It used to be called the 'Squatto' because that all it does. Run Forrest Run
Old 12-09-2010 | 02:56 PM
  #109  
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Originally Posted by mark kibort
Steve,

For something so simple, you dont seem to get it. see my last post regarding how an engine charging system works.

by the way, I raced with two eRAMS in parallel (120amps) for many years with no issues AND using a 14lb, 14 amp hour odessy battery.

So, these discussion degrade to a very low level, very quickly due to this kind of "sky is falling" misinformation. If you are going to post something, do make sure its somewhat correct, and dont come off like you know something you dont. we are just a bunch of guys just shooting the breeze here. keep it civil.

Mk
Mark,
You are right. I will remove all my posts in this thread. That will allow those here that have successfully used the product to post their favorable results.

SB
Old 12-09-2010 | 03:18 PM
  #110  
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I dont think there are too many 944, 944 968 users of the eRAM. the AFM versions will adapt to it well, depending on the installation , the MAF cars might have issues, as the fans placement is critical for best operation

The reason I posted your response, was that clearly, you made a comment about a battery being "shorted out" by drawing 120amps. your starter uses something over 200-500amps, depending on the situation. your battery doesnt "short out" it just dies after a min or two of cranking.
Ever see the badge on a battery?? something like 500CCA. do you know what that means???

You are the one that reference "simple", "ohms law", etc. what does 126amps on a battery have to do with potential catastrophic failure? clearly, 120amps is well within the capability of a lead acid battery. in fact, LiPo batteries are doing that now at similar voltages now (i.e. 3 cell)
What "simple" calculation did you do to determine any issues with this operational system or idea? point is, you didnt and your post makes no sense and clearly shows a misunderstanding of a modern battery capability.

the eRAM is only used under WOT conditions, so its only for a few seconds, AND the alternator is running to replace those used eletrons. pretty simple chicken little!

PS: here are a few dyno runs. 2 of which are stock 3.2 liter porsches and one M3 , 3.2 liter.
all were run for baseline for 2-3 runs, and then had the eRAM added and ran again. we usually then pulled the eRAM for a last run to see the run go back down to baseline.
Also, as a note, we sometimes did my favorite test. after a baseline, we would run the car with the eRAM, and then turn it on at 5000rpm, just to see the little jump in the torque/hp curve. thats pretty hard to dispute.


Originally Posted by KuHL 951
Mark,
You are right. I will remove all my posts in this thread. That will allow those here that have successfully used the product to post their favorable results.

SB
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Old 12-09-2010 | 03:25 PM
  #111  
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Did somebody here tried the breaking power of alternator when it charges?
Old 12-09-2010 | 03:40 PM
  #112  
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pretty simple to calculate. if you are max load, its about 1.6hp output, but with efficiencies of a modern Alternator, call it at worst case, 40%. so there is about 2hp if its producing 100amps. however, a 100amp draw, doesnt nessarily mean, the alternator is producing this, remember, its output is based on voltage drop, so the battery, if strong, wouldnt get near the full charging current. when you run an eRAM for example, the voltage drop of a charging system goes from 14 down to about 13. on the battery itself, with no alternator, it would go from 12.6 down to 11volts. bottom line, the results we got with the eRAM, already included losses from the alternator, as the results are net gains. however, we did tests with and without the system batteries being used and saw no difference in power gains.

Originally Posted by Voith
Did somebody here tried the breaking power of alternator when it charges?
Old 12-09-2010 | 04:11 PM
  #113  
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Folks this thread has been, well, interesting. It has turned out to be an ad for the e-ram by a non sponsor.

Thread closed.

Regards,



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