V2's AC overhaul thread...compressor rebuild?
#1
Rainman
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V2's AC overhaul thread...compressor rebuild?
While my engine is out of my car for frame repairs I figured I'd knock out some other projects too.
I recently developed an AC leak and I had just replaced my condenser, dryer and one of the rubber lines so I figured it was one of the other original (R12) lines leaking the R134a out.
What puzzles me is if I can use a simple compression fitting on the existing hard lines and attach new o-ringed hoses or if I need to cut and weld a new fitting to the hard line? These lines see between 50-250psi in normal operation.
Pictured are the two lines in question, the feed for the compressor and the line from the condenser/dryer to the AC blower.
I recently developed an AC leak and I had just replaced my condenser, dryer and one of the rubber lines so I figured it was one of the other original (R12) lines leaking the R134a out.
What puzzles me is if I can use a simple compression fitting on the existing hard lines and attach new o-ringed hoses or if I need to cut and weld a new fitting to the hard line? These lines see between 50-250psi in normal operation.
Pictured are the two lines in question, the feed for the compressor and the line from the condenser/dryer to the AC blower.
Last edited by V2Rocket; 12-26-2010 at 07:42 PM.
#2
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There is a shop that does hydraulics and such in my town, they normally silver-solder or braze a new fitting on. They could easily put a new crimp-type or AN or whatever you want. I'm sure SoCal has plenty of places that can do that. Compression fittings like Swagelok are rated very high pressures but it might be hard to find ones that fit the tubing correctly (ID/OD).
#3
Bingo Ross. I've been down that road (tried to find metric compression fittings). I ended up cutting off the old fittings and silver soldering new crimp fittings onto the original tubes (which are steel). I then cut new R134 hose to the original lengths and had a shop do the crimping for me. I bought most of the hardware here: http://www.docsblocks.com/ and was happy with them.
#4
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Mike, at some point I believe you were going to try to re-create 85.5+ A/C lines (or at least the routing); did you ever do that? I'd be interested how it turned out.
#5
I didn't Ross as I didn't have (or have access to) a good tubing bender. I ended up re-using most of the original tubes but did modify the compressor inlet fitting so the fill port was more accessible (still from under the car but better than on the compressor). I don't have a photo but could take one if anyone is interested.
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#8
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#9
Correct.. The pressure in the system will equalize over time. It is referred to as the static pressure (the hi and low gauges will read the same). There are special fittings available that use hose clamps (I think even GM did it that way for a few years in the 60's) but I wouldn't do it that way. BTW, sliver soldering is not hard to do. I used a bottle of MAP gas (available at plumbing supply stores, etc.) with a propane torch tip.
#11
Rainman
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bump, can anyone definitively tell me if the 944 AC lines are in SAE or metric sizes? i am thinking SAE as earlier this year i put in an aftermarket condenser that was sold with SAE fittings and the porsche hoses went right on and didnt leak.
#15
Rainman
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early. just pulled all the original ac lines off the car and it uses SAE hose...
about an hour ago i pulled off the original upper heater hose and it had a ford logo and part number on it, but its identical to the porsche hose..
about an hour ago i pulled off the original upper heater hose and it had a ford logo and part number on it, but its identical to the porsche hose..