944Ross

Doing my motor mounts. Other than getting them out, getting the new ones in, getting the bolt holes lined up, and general aggravation it's going pretty well...

My question is; the driver's side old mount, which I believe to be original, is less than 60mm tall unloaded (off the car), but no spacers were used. The old passenger side, which looks identical to the new Uro mounts I bought, is around 70mm. Is this right?? Did someone leave out a spacer?

My understanding is that the "turbo" mounts are identical left/right, and eliminate a spacer on one side. So is installing two identical new mounts right? Everything I saw online seemed to say so.

Kerry Chadderton

You're on the right path. I just installed two URO mounts in mine on Monday. It took a lot longer than expected. Because the new mounts are so fricking large compared to the old ones, I found that I had to remove the 4 front crossmember bolts completely. I left the rear 4 installed to hold everything from going haywire. You will find that you will be prying the crossmember down while twisting the new mount into place.

Once you get them in and lower the engine weight down onto them they compress nicely. I'm very happy with how quiet the whole car is now. It's worth the trouble!!!

P.S.- ignore the spacers. As Clarks Garage says, "Spacers are not needed with the new mounts". Do watch the bolt length. If the ends are touching the rubber they are too long. Either cut them down carefully or go buy new ones.

John_AZ

WSM info...

944Ross

Thanks guys!

The WSM picture on the left is exactly old vs new on the driver's side. So someone did leave out the spacers...

Kerry, I sincerely hope there's some improvement, because neither of the old ones looks bad.

Any ideas why they are specific about "no washers"? Just has to do with bolt length?

John_AZ

944Ross,

"no washers"---new MMs have the spacer/washer built in (4mm ridge) ---if I understand your Q.

"neither of the old ones looks bad"-----On OEM they are hydraulic (fluid filled) and yours at 60mm have collapsed/leaked. 60mm are dangerous to have on the car (rough roads/bumps===damage to engine)

Here is page 1 of the WSM on MMs.

BTW-URO are a solid rubber material. When you notice vibration at idle in the future, your MMs will be the cause. I know because I installed some solid rubber Hamburg Technic MMs and they lasted about a year.

944Ross

Thanks John! My question on washers is; If bolt length into the mount is OK with washers, do the washers need to be removed? I don't see what harm they would cause.

I understand and accept the (potentially) harsher idle with these mounts; my other ride is an S-10 pickup with 2.2L 4-banger with no BS's, it really doesn't bother me.

Kerry Chadderton

That's funny. I also have a "mint condition" '94 S-10 2.2L as my shop vehicle. It's nickname is "Buzz" because of, well, the constant buzz in the cockpit as it were. No one but me likes to drive it

I used the washers you mention on the tops of my bolts. Yes, you should have some kind of washer between the bolt head and the aluminum bracket. Just watch the bolt length.

These mounts are okay. There WILL be a difference. I'm happy with mine. But, as John pointed out, they may not last as long as OEMs.

944Ross

Thanks Kerry

I'vce just completed a clutch & RMS job, now the motor mounts; I feel like that's it for the really crappy work on this car, I'm ready for some trouble-free motoring! Actually this car has been very trouble free, until 3 weeks ago when the clutch failed.

PS -- I had a delaminated rear hatch (saw your post), with weak struts. Swapped the whole hatch for one with no delamination and decent struts, my god what a relief to be rid of the nails-on-a-blackboard screeching!

Kerry Chadderton

Not to change the subject of your post, but...

What clutch did you go with? That is my next job. In fact I'm getting ready to put my credit card information on the Vertex website now.

And another commonality; I see you have/had a '51 F-1. I bought and partially restored a '48 F-1 Flathead V8 in the mid-90s. Boy was my wife pissed when I brought that home! Whew! Fun truck though!

944Ross

Mine's a '52 (same buck-toothed grille) and I wish my 944 was as easy to work on...

I used Sachs stock spring-center throughout. I actually bought the complete set used, with ~1,000 miles on it from a guy here on RL. It is like new and saved a bundle. On my previous clutch job I used a Clutchnet.com disc. It worked fine but is a little thicker, so it released down low, and had a different feel to it, but it was also a lot cheaper. I wonder why no one gets their (spring-center) clutches re-lined? It costs about $40, I am going to try it if I ever need to do another (NOT likely). I would advise to order a new pivot shaft and fork needle bearings, they really take a beating, as well as a release bearing tube. Flywheel bolts should be replaced, too.

pfgascoigne

I bought some engine mounts for my 86 924s, and noticed the bit in the WSM about the engine being "in perfect condition and balance shafts adjusted correctly". As I have only just bought the car I thought I would see if they were correct and also have a look at the belts.
The WSM says on that subject that you should align the TDC mark on the camshaft sprocket (is there not a TDC mark on the crank pulley?) and, "TDC marks on flywheel and cast clutch housing must also be aligned".
I can't see anything on the clutch cover but the flywheel looks to be slightly less than 90 degrees out. Is the clutch/flywheel not neutrally balanced?

944Ross

Aligning the mark on the camshaft sprocket guarantees the #1 cylinder is at TDC on the compression stroke, not the exhaust. There is also a mark on the flywheel rim for TDC that is viewed from a hole in the bellhousing ("cast clutch housing"), just towards the driver's side from top of the engine. That mark is often very hard to make out.

Whether or not the flywheel is neutrally balanced has nothing to do with anything. What is your real question? The flywheel can't be 90 degrees out, it is doweled to the crank so it only installs one way.

Mike C.

Motor mounts are a real pita to do that's for sure...

pfgascoigne

Section 13-28 (13-24 USA)? shows the flywheel timing mark to be to be aligned at an opening in the bottom of the clutch housing. Mine isn't when the camshaft sprocket is in alignment. It also repeats on this page the bit about clutch/flywheel alignment, so you can get it wrong and Porsche are very keen for you to get it right !
Perhaps I should say that that car was converted from auto to manual by the previous owner, obviously with a flywheel from another engine. Did this flywheel come with a dowel? I don't know, all I know is that it doesn't appear to be correctly aligned. It's not 90 out, its less. 10(?) bolts on the flywheel, so say 72 degrees out.
If its not aligned and the clutch/ flywheel is not neutrally balanced it has everything to do with something, you'll get bad vibrations !

catamax944

just came back from the garage ,went to check my used spare motor mounts to see if they're good and i'm very happy to say that they're 69mm in height