Bryan

I'm going to be installing Koni yellows soon, and am wondering if the strut mounts should be replaced at the same time. The only reason I'm even asking this is the mounts are very expensive. $114 for non-M030 and $209 for M030. Each. If the original mounts never wear out, then I'm not going to bother. What's the consensus on the later, '87-up mounts? The original ones in the car seem fine, now. But I don't want to have to go back in there.

My car is an '88 944, non-turbo, 8V, over 100K on it.

Thanks,

Bryan

David Floyd

I changed mine when the koni's went on, did not want to take a chance.

<img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[burnout]" /> <img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[burnout]" />

Paul C 944

A goood question,Id love to here from others also as I will be doing the same next week.
Should they be changed??????

Skip

A very good question... not really a high failure item, but they do occasionally go south (usually indicated by a thunking in the front when going over uneven surfaces or on transitions). You can check the health of it somewhat by jacking up the front and giving a good series of thoughtful tugs on the strut.

There's a bearing in there that is certainly subject to life-cycle management, but normally a car that has not been subjected to a harsh environment (salty winters, sandy summers) will be okay.

If you do decide to replace, and are not restricted by competition classing, you might consider adjustable camber plates with monoballs at just a few bucks more.

Good Luck!

Bryan

The only restriction I have is being able to tolerate the ride on the street. I dunno if monoballs and camber plates are the right choice in this case.

What boggles my mind is that the little strut mount is more expensive than the entire Koni strut. Between M030 strut mounts and M030 rear control arm mounts, I'm looking at spending almost a GRAND? For 4 little metal/rubber bushings? Even for a Porsche, that's just nuts.

On the other hand, do I want to put my suspension back together with the 14 year old rubber suspension parts? Not really. The non-M030 stuff is a little cheaper, maybe this is the compromise to make. But I'm still at $114 each for strut mounts.

Bryan

Skip

[quote]Originally posted by Bryan:
<strong>The only restriction I have is being able to tolerate the ride on the street.</strong><hr></blockquote>

Right you are, but the monoball mounts have the damper to isolate the road harshness from the body (and your teeth). The biggest street ride change comes with the deletion of rubber in the control arms (Wrightwood or Racer's Edge spherical bushing sets), since these are transmitting the road directly to the body (save for the tire).

[quote]<strong> Even for a Porsche, that's just nuts. </strong><hr></blockquote>

No argument there... have you ever seen the replacement cost for a digital clock

[quote]<strong>On the other hand, do I want to put my suspension back together with the 14 year old rubber suspension parts?</strong><hr></blockquote>

Not if you want to realize the full and dramatic change the Konis will make.

Skip

DB944T

I'm in the middle of the Koni project right now - one side dissasembled.

So far, the steering bearing rubber looks solid and the bearing moves fairly smoothly. So I think I'll save the $ for now.

But there seems to be a gasket that sits between the top face of the bushing bracket(?) and the body. This didn't come out in one piece. Is that part available or is it some silicone-like goop that is put in during re-assembly? I imagine it saves alot of squeaking.

Also - I noticed that the top end of the Koni strut does not have the 7mm hex end to hold the strut while putting the top strut nut back on. Should I just torque the nut on without holding the strut, or is there some other method. I know not to hold the adjuster tab...

- help appreciated
Dave

PS - to those who are about to do this job - On my car,the top nut was too recessed to reach with a 22mm offset wrench. So I took an old socket and filed the edges so that it could be turned with a 1" end wrench. A 7mm hex socket fit throught the top of the 22mm. Voila, it came apart.

Skip

[quote]Originally posted by DB944T:
<strong>But there seems to be a gasket that sits between the top face of the bushing bracket(?) and the body. This didn't come out in one piece. Is that part available or is it some silicone-like goop that is put in during re-assembly? I imagine it saves alot of squeaking.</strong><hr></blockquote>

Part# 133.412.367 - dealer or special order item

I suppose you could use gasket sealant.

[quote]<strong>Also - I noticed that the top end of the Koni strut does not have the 7mm hex end to hold the strut while putting the top strut nut back on. Should I just torque the nut on without holding the strut, or is there some other method. I know not to hold the adjuster tab...</strong><hr></blockquote>

Have a look at the top again, there's a spot to set a socket or wrench to hold the shaft. Maybe 7/16" [can never remember]

[quote]<strong>PS - to those who are about to do this job - On my car,the top nut was too recessed to reach with a 22mm offset wrench. So I took an old socket and filed the edges so that it could be turned with a 1" end wrench. A 7mm hex socket fit throught the top of the 22mm. Voila, it came apart.</strong><hr></blockquote>

Sears and Snap-on (and others I'm sure) have deep offset combination wrenches that work perfectly with that nut. You're right thoughm the shallow offset is just not long enough [he says after buying one ]

Good Luck!