Backend noise...CV Joint?
10-02-2010, 01:00 PM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Backend noise...CV Joint?
I have some noises I need help identifying coming from the right rear of the car.
History:
This past year I noticed that after I got off the interstate, waited at the light and then re-engaged the clutch there would be a squealing/squeaking noise from the back axle. I always thought it was the hatch reseating, but I'm thinking it has to do with the drive train now.
The noise goes away after a few minutes so I am wondering if the interstate driving/heat is causing some of the issue and it goes away once everything cools.
Leaving work last night I noticed a knocking metal sound from the right rear of the car. The knocking was in sync with wheel speed of the car and not the engine RPM's. It seemed to only happen when I was on the gas with the clutch engaged. The noise stopped halfway home before I could experiment more.
Did some research on the boards last night and found some information on differential carrier bearings...Could be the issue.
https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...sion-leak.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...x-problem.html
I drove around this morning and could not produce the same noise...
I crawled under this morning and discovered some fluid buildup on the transmission where the right rear CV joints the trans at the stub axle. However when I removed the CV there is hardly any play in the trans stub axle at all, leading me to believe the carrier bearings are still good.
I can't tell if the fluid is tranny fluid or grease from the CV. I checked my trans fluid level and its where it needs to be, although I should probably change the fluid again.
I also checked the rest of the right rear brake assembly to make sure everything is tight (even the large castle nut). Wheel bearings look good too.
Could the stub axle flange seals be bad causing the noise?
Could my CV joint be bad?
See pictures below. Thanks.
84 NA btw
History:
This past year I noticed that after I got off the interstate, waited at the light and then re-engaged the clutch there would be a squealing/squeaking noise from the back axle. I always thought it was the hatch reseating, but I'm thinking it has to do with the drive train now.
The noise goes away after a few minutes so I am wondering if the interstate driving/heat is causing some of the issue and it goes away once everything cools.
Leaving work last night I noticed a knocking metal sound from the right rear of the car. The knocking was in sync with wheel speed of the car and not the engine RPM's. It seemed to only happen when I was on the gas with the clutch engaged. The noise stopped halfway home before I could experiment more.
Did some research on the boards last night and found some information on differential carrier bearings...Could be the issue.
https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...sion-leak.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...x-problem.html
I drove around this morning and could not produce the same noise...
I crawled under this morning and discovered some fluid buildup on the transmission where the right rear CV joints the trans at the stub axle. However when I removed the CV there is hardly any play in the trans stub axle at all, leading me to believe the carrier bearings are still good.
I can't tell if the fluid is tranny fluid or grease from the CV. I checked my trans fluid level and its where it needs to be, although I should probably change the fluid again.
I also checked the rest of the right rear brake assembly to make sure everything is tight (even the large castle nut). Wheel bearings look good too.
Could the stub axle flange seals be bad causing the noise?
Could my CV joint be bad?
See pictures below. Thanks.
84 NA btw
Last edited by SalzundPfeffer; 10-04-2010 at 03:46 PM.
10-02-2010, 03:14 PM
#2
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Join Date: Dec 2007
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Could be the outer bearing.
The CV connects to the drive stub axle, through the upright. This stub axle has an inner and outer bearing set. They develop play over time and thus things grind a bit.
Remove the wheel, remove the brake caliper (line still attached) to free the rotor a bit.
See if you can shake the rotor up and down. If it moves, the outer bearing is worn.
lindsey racing has bearings on hand and can get them to you in days
http://www.lindseyracing.com/LR/Part...ELBEARING.html
Unfortunately, the inner bearing (side closer to transmission) in the upright is pressed in with at least a 12 ton press and to change that inner bearing means removal of the upright.
The outer bearing is straight forward.
The castle nut is 1 1/8".
Don't forget to pack your bearings with grease!
My stub axle got worn down from letting the bearing go too long and thus there was lots of play, enough that the inner rotor (portion that is corner transition of disc to parking brake contact) was resting on the parking brake assembly!!
This stub axle is expensive when new, and there was a groove worn in mine.
I needed the car that night and even the dealer said it was a week out.
My fix: hammer myself a shim of sheet metal to fill the space. It was tight and works fine.
I don't like taking short cuts, but it works...
Thanks for the pics, I hope this helps.
The CV connects to the drive stub axle, through the upright. This stub axle has an inner and outer bearing set. They develop play over time and thus things grind a bit.
Remove the wheel, remove the brake caliper (line still attached) to free the rotor a bit.
See if you can shake the rotor up and down. If it moves, the outer bearing is worn.
lindsey racing has bearings on hand and can get them to you in days
http://www.lindseyracing.com/LR/Part...ELBEARING.html
Unfortunately, the inner bearing (side closer to transmission) in the upright is pressed in with at least a 12 ton press and to change that inner bearing means removal of the upright.
The outer bearing is straight forward.
The castle nut is 1 1/8".
Don't forget to pack your bearings with grease!
My stub axle got worn down from letting the bearing go too long and thus there was lots of play, enough that the inner rotor (portion that is corner transition of disc to parking brake contact) was resting on the parking brake assembly!!
This stub axle is expensive when new, and there was a groove worn in mine.
I needed the car that night and even the dealer said it was a week out.
My fix: hammer myself a shim of sheet metal to fill the space. It was tight and works fine.
I don't like taking short cuts, but it works...
Thanks for the pics, I hope this helps.
10-03-2010, 10:26 AM
#3
Instructor
Thread Starter
This post describes my situation. Can anyone give me a +1 on the CV joint?
https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...ease-help.html
By looking at the joint removed is there anyway to tell if there bad?
Thanks,
-bp
https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...ease-help.html
By looking at the joint removed is there anyway to tell if there bad?
Thanks,
-bp
10-04-2010, 04:32 PM
#5
Cracked outer CV casing could cause prblem. Remove CV's and inspect *****/races. A poor tranny mount can cause side to side shifting and ruin these CV's even if new. Low viscosity grease can seep past seals bolts as well, especially if there is high heat added to the eqation.
10-04-2010, 05:05 PM
#6
Instructor
Thread Starter
Cracked outer CV casing could cause prblem. Remove CV's and inspect *****/races. A poor tranny mount can cause side to side shifting and ruin these CV's even if new. Low viscosity grease can seep past seals bolts as well, especially if there is high heat added to the eqation.
When you say cracked out CV casing, are you refering to the rubber boot or the metal casing? Since I wasn't looking for a crack there I didn't look too hard. I will have to take another peak.
