Oil Pressure and Voltmeter Gauge Problems
03-12-2002, 06:42 PM
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Oil Pressure and Voltmeter Gauge Problems
I have two issue with the car that I cannot find a solution to. After the car starts up the oil pressure gauge pegs and stays there at all rpms.
I have replaced the sending unit and that did not solve the problem.
The voltmeter does not work at all.
The idiot lights are working with the oil and alternator.
The instrument cluster was switched with another 944 and the problem was the same.
Has anyone had any similar problems? Any ideas?
I have replaced the sending unit and that did not solve the problem.
The voltmeter does not work at all.
The idiot lights are working with the oil and alternator.
The instrument cluster was switched with another 944 and the problem was the same.
Has anyone had any similar problems? Any ideas?
03-13-2002, 01:04 AM
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If the wiring is OK for the oil pressure gauge, then the sender is bad. There are two connections to the sender mounted on the engine; one for the idiot light and one for the gauge itself. Changing out the sender should resolve that problem.
As for the voltmeter....(I added one since my car didn't have one)..Any switched 12 volt source will do if there is a fault in the wiring. YOu can use a test voltmeter or even a 12v test light to determine if any power is getting through. The other wire on the volt meter is a ground wire. Check it with an ohmmeter. If the ground is broken the voltmeter will not work.
It's not hard troubleshooting
Good luck
Bob S.
As for the voltmeter....(I added one since my car didn't have one)..Any switched 12 volt source will do if there is a fault in the wiring. YOu can use a test voltmeter or even a 12v test light to determine if any power is getting through. The other wire on the volt meter is a ground wire. Check it with an ohmmeter. If the ground is broken the voltmeter will not work.
It's not hard troubleshooting
Good luck
Bob S.
03-13-2002, 02:58 PM
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I swapped out the sender with no luck and also
checked the connections and they appeared to
be working.
I checked the ground wire and it was fine on
the voltmeter. I could bypass the whole wire
system and take it straight to the source
but I really wanted to fix the car correctly.
I'm going to check the grounds on the body
when the weather warms up.
checked the connections and they appeared to
be working.
I checked the ground wire and it was fine on
the voltmeter. I could bypass the whole wire
system and take it straight to the source
but I really wanted to fix the car correctly.
I'm going to check the grounds on the body
when the weather warms up.
03-13-2002, 03:39 PM
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Had this same problem a few months back, well actually for a while, but I just got around to dealing with it. I found that the ribbon cable on the right side of the instrument cluster (from drivr's seat) powers that gauge, and a couple of the pins in the cable were pushed out, and not making good contact with the male receptor on the gauge cluster. I used a small needle tipped instrument to bend those connectors out/down.
Reconnected everything and it has worked ever since.
FYI: the way I found the problem was to remove the dash area surrounding the cluster, and remove all of the mounting screws to the cluster. I pulled the right side of the cluster out a bit and started the car. I then wiggled that ribbon harness, and sure enough started getting readings on my voltmeter.
BTW: since you have the cluster out (like I did), go ahead and strip and resurface the light tunnels to improve your cluster lighting. I used silver metal HVAC tape, but didn't get near the improvement I had hoped. Some people recommend going with a brighter bulb, but you'll have to search the archives to find the right wattage that doesn't melt the plastic.
Reconnected everything and it has worked ever since.
FYI: the way I found the problem was to remove the dash area surrounding the cluster, and remove all of the mounting screws to the cluster. I pulled the right side of the cluster out a bit and started the car. I then wiggled that ribbon harness, and sure enough started getting readings on my voltmeter.
BTW: since you have the cluster out (like I did), go ahead and strip and resurface the light tunnels to improve your cluster lighting. I used silver metal HVAC tape, but didn't get near the improvement I had hoped. Some people recommend going with a brighter bulb, but you'll have to search the archives to find the right wattage that doesn't melt the plastic.
03-13-2002, 07:49 PM
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On the voltmeter and oil pressure gauge problems I did check the ribbon connector and it appears fine. On the voltmeter I connected a 9 volt battery and it does work. In regards to the lighting of the cluster I used silver spray paint with some careful masking. Also I am using a Wagner #194 bulbs which are slightly brighter and only draw a little more current and do not run hot. They put out 2 candle power and are priced more reasonably than the Porsche ones.
