How do I Remove Rusty Bolt With Sheared Off Head?
#1
Burning Brakes
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I’m in the middle of removing the bottom mounting point from the wastegate and of course the bolts are quite rusty. I first sprayed Penetrating oil on the bolts about a dozen times over the course of 3 days. I also banged on the bolts and wastegate with a wrench to try to “wake them up”. Then I pound a 12mm socket onto the 13mm bolts so that I would not strip the rusty half rounded buggers. I then used a hammer to bang on the end of the wrench for a sort of impact force instead of a gradual torque, so as to try to help break the bolts free from their rusty caverns. Well the first bolt started to twist much to my excitement. Unfortunately it’s shaft stayed put and I only succeeded in twisting the head off.
Now I am suck with how to remove this rusted in stud and what to do about the other 3 bolts still in place.
Thanks in advance for any sudgestions.
Now I am suck with how to remove this rusted in stud and what to do about the other 3 bolts still in place.
Thanks in advance for any sudgestions.
#2
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There was talk about this, concerning a bolt somewhere around the timing chain. For that, John D. suggested drilling it out (smaller than the bolt, you wouldn't want to strip the hole!).
That's all I can think of, for sheared bolts, unless the set Craftsman sells, for removing stripped bolts would work, but since the bolt is sheared, I seriously doubt it.
Most of the guys are at Hershey, but they'll be back next week. I think Danno is here this weekend though, so you could toss him the question.
Good luck!
- Julie
That's all I can think of, for sheared bolts, unless the set Craftsman sells, for removing stripped bolts would work, but since the bolt is sheared, I seriously doubt it.
Most of the guys are at Hershey, but they'll be back next week. I think Danno is here this weekend though, so you could toss him the question.
Good luck!
- Julie
#3
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Soak it with penetrating oil and heat it with a propane torch, then let cool. Repeat this a few times to help break the corrosion.
Get an easy out (reverse direction drill bit) that is smaller than the shaft of the bolt. Center punch the bolt so the bit does not walk, and drill it on center. As material is removed, it should pull the stud out. I
f not, drill through it then hammer an allen head or Torx bit into the hole and twist it out. Some heat on the torx bit helps as well.
Lots of stripped bolts lately! Replied to a similar one on the Turbo forum.
Get an easy out (reverse direction drill bit) that is smaller than the shaft of the bolt. Center punch the bolt so the bit does not walk, and drill it on center. As material is removed, it should pull the stud out. I
f not, drill through it then hammer an allen head or Torx bit into the hole and twist it out. Some heat on the torx bit helps as well.
Lots of stripped bolts lately! Replied to a similar one on the Turbo forum.
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I might be wrong, but I thought the stock wastegate bolts were actually bolts with nuts, not studs, no? If so, with the bolt head torn off, can't you just punch out the remaining portion with a drift and hammer?
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I've actually placed a nut over a sheared off bolts in other castings, then welded the nut onto the bolt. The weld won't stick to the casting, the heat makes it come out lots easier. I take it out before the weld cools. I use a wire feed welder, it works pretty slick. My brother-in-law had exhaust studs sheared off on his Blazer, had an estimate for over $200.00 to take them out, it took me about 10 minutes. Just stuck a socket on them and they turned right out. Good luck.
Arne.
Arne.
#7
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Sears/Craftsman MAKES the easy out tool; I just didn't know the name of it, but I think it's obvious that's the tool I was referring to.
- Julie
- Julie
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I have never tried this method my self but many people recommend it so I guess it is pretty good if you have a welder. (I don't have one, yet..)
//Magnus
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by avainio:
<strong>I've actually placed a nut over a sheared off bolts in other castings, then welded the nut onto the bolt. The weld won't stick to the casting, the heat makes it come out lots easier. I take it out before the weld cools. I use a wire feed welder, it works pretty slick. My brother-in-law had exhaust studs sheared off on his Blazer, had an estimate for over $200.00 to take them out, it took me about 10 minutes. Just stuck a socket on them and they turned right out. Good luck.
Arne.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">
//Magnus
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by avainio:
<strong>I've actually placed a nut over a sheared off bolts in other castings, then welded the nut onto the bolt. The weld won't stick to the casting, the heat makes it come out lots easier. I take it out before the weld cools. I use a wire feed welder, it works pretty slick. My brother-in-law had exhaust studs sheared off on his Blazer, had an estimate for over $200.00 to take them out, it took me about 10 minutes. Just stuck a socket on them and they turned right out. Good luck.
Arne.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">
#9
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Gradual force is better than a sudden shock. In my experience. I would just remove the other three and If they break you can ussually remove the item bolted on and get the stumps out with a vice grip now that the pressure is off the threads. a touch of heat on the fixture and not the bolt stumps can help.
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Wow, thanks for all the replies guys and gal. I really went to town on this bad puppy. After breaking the head off I went and got a propane torch, a easy out set, a drill, and a cobalt drill bit mad specifically for metal. Well I got home rigged everything up, put the drill against the bolt and pulled the trigger. Snap there goes the friggin drill bit. Amazing.
Well I got another drill bit this time the suped up Bosch version it succeeding in drilling a .5 inch deep hole in the bolt after about 15min of drilling.
I then set to using the easy out my friend was twisting and I was pushing down on the top of it to help the treads bite in. It started biting but as my friend pulled on it w/ about 20 ft pounds of force, Snap. The frigging easyout broke.
We then tried to drill a new hole through the easyout. Apparently those things are made out of super steel cause after about 15 min of drilling me and my buddy had only put about a millimeter hole in it.
So next up on the list of stuff to try is bang my head into the wall, and throw the wastegate into the trash compactor.
(I don't have a welder so no welding allowed)
Thanks for the help and any other sudggestions are welcome.
Well I got another drill bit this time the suped up Bosch version it succeeding in drilling a .5 inch deep hole in the bolt after about 15min of drilling.
I then set to using the easy out my friend was twisting and I was pushing down on the top of it to help the treads bite in. It started biting but as my friend pulled on it w/ about 20 ft pounds of force, Snap. The frigging easyout broke.
We then tried to drill a new hole through the easyout. Apparently those things are made out of super steel cause after about 15 min of drilling me and my buddy had only put about a millimeter hole in it.
So next up on the list of stuff to try is bang my head into the wall, and throw the wastegate into the trash compactor.
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Thanks for the help and any other sudggestions are welcome.
#11
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Yeah when we were taking the wastegate off Jason's (Florida951) car to install him Guru shims all 4 heads broke off. We ended up having to drill the holes out slightly larger and then put new slightly larger bolts in it.
Samr thing the easy outs broke off trying to use those to get the studs out, and that made the drilling process even more time consuming because those bitches are TOUGH!! Sounds like you're in about the same situation. It just took about an hour and a half of constant drilling with several breaks to sharpen the drill bits because the easy outs wore it down fast.
Samr thing the easy outs broke off trying to use those to get the studs out, and that made the drilling process even more time consuming because those bitches are TOUGH!! Sounds like you're in about the same situation. It just took about an hour and a half of constant drilling with several breaks to sharpen the drill bits because the easy outs wore it down fast.
#12
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Man and I just thought the porsche gods were picking on me. Did you use a tap to make new threads or did you use nuts on the other side.
Man I don't want to have to do that though. Does anyone have any other slick ideas?
Man I don't want to have to do that though. Does anyone have any other slick ideas?