Can I do the Rod Bearings and not do crank work?
#1
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Can I do the Rod Bearings and not do crank work?
I have recently done the top end clean-up and regasketing. It was suggested by a fellow lister, to do the rod bearings before I drop the engine in the car. I have 87K miles on the engine, never heard it run, haven't looked at the bottom end at all. There were no leaks at the pan, so it stayed on. The engine did have a WFR HG and looks like someone had chips in the DME and KLR(bent tabs on cases). The WG diaphram was blown and I pulled all the hoses(under the intake) apart without loosening any clamps. I got the engine from a guy doing an LT-1 swap, he had good records of the car and a video tape of it running and driving, also had the ad listing from who he recently bought it from. Nothing suggesting mechanical problems. I'd rather leave the crank in the block and basically, mesure the journals and replace the bearings. The cylinder walls looked great when the head was off also. TIA, Andy Kihm
#2
That's the way I did it, replaced the rod bearing only, the crank measured at factory spec. I know of several race cars that do this every year as preventive maintenance. Lindsey has a good kit for doing the oil pan baffles, might want to do it while you are there.
#3
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Yup, measure crank. If in spec, new bearings and new nuts (gotta replace them). Requires the plastigauge to set the tolerance, but great maintenance to do with engine out.
It is a DRAG to remove the suspension to get at 'em, trust me.
Figure bearing set about $50 and pan gasket about $50 or thereabouts.
It is a DRAG to remove the suspension to get at 'em, trust me.
Figure bearing set about $50 and pan gasket about $50 or thereabouts.
#4
Three Wheelin'
Ditto, what Brian/Dave said. Mine were okay at 103k miles, but #2 was definitely showing more wear and I gained 1/2 bar oil pressure at idle. And what he says about dropping the suspension being a drag goes double for a 944 turbo. Add about $10 for con rod nuts.
#5
I've had rods bearings done twice, first at about 50k miles and number two was looking iffy. Never touched mains and doing fine after ten track seasons. Have added baffles, a second oil cooler an oil temp gauge and an hour meter.Always run Mobil 1 15-50.
#6
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Thanks guys, I heard if in spec, it's OK to do a brearing slap. Well, new addition to the wishlist. Thanks again
BTW, what's the deal on the baffle? Does it need to be replaced(plastic?)or go aftermarket?updated design?TIA
<img border="0" alt="[bigbye]" title="" src="graemlins/xyxwave.gif" />
BTW, what's the deal on the baffle? Does it need to be replaced(plastic?)or go aftermarket?updated design?TIA
<img border="0" alt="[bigbye]" title="" src="graemlins/xyxwave.gif" />
#7
The baffle is welded into the bottom part of the oil pan, you keep the original plastic piece that goes on the top of the pan. See <a href="http://www.lindseyracing.com/944nav2.htm" target="_blank">http://www.lindseyracing.com/944nav2.htm</a>
Under oil pan baffle
Under oil pan baffle
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#9
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WOW, did a search for oil pan baffles. Found this, seems to be an answer for the #2 RB probs. Even though it is talking about 928 cars, we have half of that motor. Seems that the #2 is the first to get oil(or air, in a corner)thus showing the signs of bad oiling. Hmmm, add an Accusump and a baffle the list.
<a href="http://www.nichols.nu/tip682.htm" target="_blank">http://www.nichols.nu/tip682.htm</a>
<a href="http://www.nichols.nu/tip682.htm" target="_blank">http://www.nichols.nu/tip682.htm</a>