Lowering and Torsion Bar Replacement.
05-30-2010, 11:08 AM
#16
even if u went coilovers, u still would have done all the work in removing the torsion bar. the only step you don't do is knowing how much to reindex it. but additionally, u do alot more installing the coilover.
05-31-2010, 10:35 AM
#18
Rennlist Member
Just did a car last night, reindexed the bars to maintain ride height when adding 968 M030 rear shocks with the barrel helper spring (which raised the car 1").
About 7 hrs of straight work.
Done the t-bar job about 10 times now on different cars over the years and each time it still sucks, in its own special way...
About 7 hrs of straight work.
Done the t-bar job about 10 times now on different cars over the years and each time it still sucks, in its own special way...
05-31-2010, 10:37 AM
#19
Hi Tom,
After searching for ride height, I cam across the post on your torsion bar reindexing. How low did you go? I am at about 4 inches measued at the rocker. One side is a little lower, I wonder if I am off by one inner spline? If I am, does that mean that the bars should be taken out again, or can I adjust at the spring plate even though I may be out by one inner spline?
Is there another way to check that both bars are in the same?
After searching for ride height, I cam across the post on your torsion bar reindexing. How low did you go? I am at about 4 inches measued at the rocker. One side is a little lower, I wonder if I am off by one inner spline? If I am, does that mean that the bars should be taken out again, or can I adjust at the spring plate even though I may be out by one inner spline?
Is there another way to check that both bars are in the same?
06-02-2010, 10:54 AM
#20
Race Director
My spreadsheet calcuates that spring compression to first make sure the ride height is the same when you increase the spring rate. The on top of that you can do a ride height change.
BTW.. i have done 2 t-bars jobs using my spreadsheet. Got them right both times. However I never could accurately figure how many splines to move since they are blind. (I can't see them).
Even so I moved from 23 mm to 28 mm and from 28 mm to 30 mm.
06-02-2010, 12:19 PM
#21
I dropped two outer splines (going from 23 to 28mm torsion bar). I will go to Mantis racing for a consult and to see if I should go ahead with alignment. At this moment it looks like the rear is lower than front, but I will wait until the car is measured properly, instead of my driveway.
I REALLY hope that I do not have to do it again.
I REALLY hope that I do not have to do it again.
06-02-2010, 02:42 PM
#23
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That was my thinking. Just pulling out the t-bars is less than half the job of indexing, assuming it goes well. And installing rear coilovers is no more effort than installing rear shocks; which you do when you pull t-bars anyway. What would be cool would be a plastic protractor/sliderule/ arm/gauge that fits over the end of the t-bar. Someone could make dozens of dollars creating and selling them.
06-02-2010, 03:34 PM
#24
I have significantly lowered the front Koni coil overs. They can only go so low, at least that is what Jason mentioned this morning at Paragon. He said that they should have a mininun of one inch of travel, otherwise the car is at risk of riding on the bump stops. That said, I am not sure how much travel I have. I will find out tomorrow when I go to Mantis Racing.
06-02-2010, 03:43 PM
#25
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Hi Tom,
After searching for ride height, I cam across the post on your torsion bar reindexing. How low did you go? I am at about 4 inches measued at the rocker. One side is a little lower, I wonder if I am off by one inner spline? If I am, does that mean that the bars should be taken out again, or can I adjust at the spring plate even though I may be out by one inner spline?
Is there another way to check that both bars are in the same?
After searching for ride height, I cam across the post on your torsion bar reindexing. How low did you go? I am at about 4 inches measued at the rocker. One side is a little lower, I wonder if I am off by one inner spline? If I am, does that mean that the bars should be taken out again, or can I adjust at the spring plate even though I may be out by one inner spline?
Is there another way to check that both bars are in the same?
I did mine twice to get it right, because I tried doing shortcuts and didn't use Joe's spreadsheet the first time. If someone holds a gun to my head and makes me do another t-bar job, I'll quit messing around and just drop the whole rear to begin with.
06-02-2010, 03:52 PM
#26
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A little lower on one side is probably OK to adjust externally, but I'd think that using the spring plate to make up for more than a spline being off is not ideal. Wouldn't it make it harder to do accurate rear alignment and/or corner balancing?
I did mine twice to get it right, because I tried doing shortcuts and didn't use Joe's spreadsheet the first time. If someone holds a gun to my head and makes me do another t-bar job, I'll quit messing around and just drop the whole rear to begin with.
I did mine twice to get it right, because I tried doing shortcuts and didn't use Joe's spreadsheet the first time. If someone holds a gun to my head and makes me do another t-bar job, I'll quit messing around and just drop the whole rear to begin with.
06-02-2010, 03:55 PM
#27
on your front, what's measurement from center of hub to top of the wheel wheel. any lower than 13", you start having issues with binding the ball joints.
travel is ez to measure. jack up the car. put it on stands. take off the wheel. position jack under the balljoint on the lower control arm. pump the jack up until the car lifts off the stand. measure how much distance between shock and the bumpstop. that's how much travel u have left
travel is ez to measure. jack up the car. put it on stands. take off the wheel. position jack under the balljoint on the lower control arm. pump the jack up until the car lifts off the stand. measure how much distance between shock and the bumpstop. that's how much travel u have left
06-02-2010, 11:19 PM
#30
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