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I'm looking for an upgrade option for my 944S master cylinder. This is for a race car running big reds.
I have the stock master cylinder with the 23,81/20,64 mm port sizes (same as the Turbo M/C), but have too much travel in the pedal during races. Brakes have plenty of cooling, but the M/C just doesn't move the enough to get a nice stiff pedal without excessive travel.
Anyone had any sucess using other ATE master cylinders that can bolt on to the stock ATE brake booster and use the same reservoir?
Looks like there are a number of BMW components that might work...anyone have actual experience with them (as opposed to theoretical?)
Did you ever come up with a solution for a larger master cylinder? I am running big reds as well and would like to improve the pedal. Thanks in advance.
Dual master cylinders - tilton or willwood floor mounted pedal, or there's a rare/NLA kokeln dual master adapter. Tilton = $$$ but work well. You'd be able to ditch the booster too.
I have a Tilton dual master cylinder mount with a proportioning valve mounted on the engine bay side of the firewall with a custom made mount. With this you don't have to modify the sheet metal like with the pedal/MC assembly.
There's mid-90's BMW 7 series that we tried that's bored 40mm/40mm - WAY to much power and way too much rear brake (ended up backwards on the street at 40 mph.
Solved the problem by upgrading to from NA rears to Turbo rear brakes and switching to a 928 GTS proportioning valve - 63 psi or something IIRC vs the 30 for the "S" to move much more of the braking to the rear, and also going to a much more agressive pad in the rear than in the front. PFC 97 in front, hawk DTC60 rear. Worked like magic - rock hard pedal even in 100 degree ambient races and the car is much more stable.
I'm trying to find an upgrade for my 1987 NA 944 brake booster because it ugly and I don't enjoy seeing it. I've been doing some digging and trying to find a replacement and I found the " Chase Bays Brake Booster Eliminator ". It looks to be mainly for BMV and VW but as we all know they share lots and lots of parts. It uses a square 4 bolt configuration and looks like it'll attach right to your brake arm. Has anyone used this and how did you get around the problem of going for the large three-bolt to the smaller 4 bolt configuration, did you just make an adaptor? Also, how did you go about the issue of needing multiple tubes and pipes leading into the device?
I'm trying to find an upgrade for my 1987 NA 944 brake booster because it ugly and I don't enjoy seeing it. I've been doing some digging and trying to find a replacement and I found the " Chase Bays Brake Booster Eliminator ". It looks to be mainly for BMV and VW but as we all know they share lots and lots of parts. It uses a square 4 bolt configuration and looks like it'll attach right to your brake arm. Has anyone used this and how did you get around the problem of going for the large three-bolt to the smaller 4 bolt configuration, did you just make an adaptor? Also, how did you go about the issue of needing multiple tubes and pipes leading into the device?
If you're mainly just concerned about your booster being unattractive , you can refurbish the one you have, or buy a new one.
I'm trying to find an upgrade for my 1987 NA 944 brake booster because it ugly and I don't enjoy seeing it. I've been doing some digging and trying to find a replacement and I found the " Chase Bays Brake Booster Eliminator ". It looks to be mainly for BMV and VW but as we all know they share lots and lots of parts. It uses a square 4 bolt configuration and looks like it'll attach right to your brake arm. Has anyone used this and how did you get around the problem of going for the large three-bolt to the smaller 4 bolt configuration, did you just make an adaptor? Also, how did you go about the issue of needing multiple tubes and pipes leading into the device?
Unless my eyes deceive me... that uses a single piston/single circuit master cylinder (probably Wilwood...) Any hydraulic failure = zero brakes.
I'll pass.
Unless my eyes deceive me... that uses a single piston/single circuit master cylinder (probably Wilwood...) Any hydraulic failure = zero brakes.
I'll pass.
+1 that’s not going to end well. As others have said use a dual master set-up with a balance bar either on the firewall or as a pedal box. I prefer the firewall, here’s my setup before I mounted it on my track car, it was designed (not by me) to bolt right in place of the booster.
+1 that’s not going to end well. As others have said use a dual master set-up with a balance bar either on the firewall or as a pedal box. I prefer the firewall, here’s my setup before I mounted it on my track car, it was designed (not by me) to bolt right in place of the booster.
I like your setup! Do you know who manufactured that cast bracket? I could fab up the rest....
I just deleted my booster using an adapter plate to the firewall.
Stock master with rerouted lines, big reds front, stock 944T rear.
Haven't driven it much with this configuration, so not sure about the pedal effort. The car is light (about 2350 w/me in it?) so maybe OK the way it is.
I like your setup! Do you know who manufactured that cast bracket? I could fab up the rest....
The master cylinders and cast mounting are all stock Tilton. The mount just drops into their pedal box or you can fabricate a fixture to replace the booster like here. The fixture to replace the booster is quite simple and once you mount the master cylinders to the cast bracket it’s easy to see what need doing. Fyi the masters here are 17.8mm (7/10”) and 19.1mm (3/4”) and this works very well. There is also an in-cabin remote to adjust the balance bar f-r. The fluid feeders are fed from reservoirs mounted above on the firewall, pretty sure I used two clutch reservoirs from a rhd 944 which come with a mount.
Been on my track car a few years now and does the job really well! More pics...
The master cylinders and cast mounting are all stock Tilton. The mount just drops into their pedal box or you can fabricate a fixture to replace the booster like here. The fixture to replace the booster is quite simple and once you mount the master cylinders to the cast bracket it’s easy to see what need doing. Fyi the masters here are 17.8mm (7/10”) and 19.1mm (3/4”) and this works very well. There is also an in-cabin remote to adjust the balance bar f-r. The fluid feeders are fed from reservoirs mounted above on the firewall, pretty sure I used two clutch reservoirs from a rhd 944 which come with a mount.
Been on my track car a few years now and does the job really well! More pics...
Do you know where you got the items needed to make this? I'm interested in the mount to the firewall and I was a little confused about what you were saying, did you say you had to make the mount yourself, or was that another purchase part?