Master Cylinder Upgrade Options?
#16
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#17
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The best is usually a pedal box, where the balance bar is mounted directly to the pedal.
In most cases, the master cylinders must accept a certain tolerance of play - the piston rods won't always be exactly parallel to the piston travel.
Last edited by FrenchToast; 01-14-2021 at 06:56 PM.
#18
Nordschleife Master
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The master cylinders and the cast mount in my pictures are stock Tilton items, you can see “Tilton” cast into these parts in the photos and also the part numbers. The mount to the firewall is custom but once you mount both masters to the cast mount and offer that assembly up to the firewall, it becomes obvious what you need to fabricate to attach to where the old booster mounted.
#19
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Because of the geometry of the motion transfer, using a remote actuator like that is never going to be ideal. There is always some kind of friction loss and/or unwanted motion. Without knowing exactly the internals surrounding the sliding balance rod, it's hard to judge how the Kokeln (or the remake) would actually hold up to repeated abuse. I can't say I would be confident putting all that compressive force through a threaded rod. Furthermore, it's attached to the balance bar housing with a tiny nut.
The best is usually a pedal box, where the balance bar is mounted directly to the pedal.
In most cases, the master cylinders must accept a certain tolerance of play - the piston rods won't always be exactly parallel to the piston travel.
The best is usually a pedal box, where the balance bar is mounted directly to the pedal.
In most cases, the master cylinders must accept a certain tolerance of play - the piston rods won't always be exactly parallel to the piston travel.
#20
Rainman
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Rennlist Member
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Because of the geometry of the motion transfer, using a remote actuator like that is never going to be ideal. There is always some kind of friction loss and/or unwanted motion. Without knowing exactly the internals surrounding the sliding balance rod, it's hard to judge how the Kokeln (or the remake) would actually hold up to repeated abuse. I can't say I would be confident putting all that compressive force through a threaded rod. Furthermore, it's attached to the balance bar housing with a tiny nut.
The best is usually a pedal box, where the balance bar is mounted directly to the pedal.
In most cases, the master cylinders must accept a certain tolerance of play - the piston rods won't always be exactly parallel to the piston travel.
The best is usually a pedal box, where the balance bar is mounted directly to the pedal.
In most cases, the master cylinders must accept a certain tolerance of play - the piston rods won't always be exactly parallel to the piston travel.
#21
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I've decided to get with a pedal box, now I just need to figure out which lines run where. I know one of the lines that run to the clutch master cylinder and to then the slave cylinder, I just need to figure out now where the hard-mounted hard brake lines run to. The OEM 87' master cylinder has (when facing it from the front of the car) two on the right and one on the left, I am trying to figure out where each of them leads to and how it's divided up. I don't have ABS and the manual picture includes the ABS, this may or may not complicate it but I sure don't know.
With a vacuum assisted system you're also putting less force into the input components. With a manual system you can put 500, 700+ lbs on that pushrod depending on where you place the lever.
I'm not a fan of the Kokeln piece, but it also has a thicker junction at the balance bar to the pushrod to relieve stress at that point.
Last edited by FrenchToast; 01-18-2021 at 01:22 PM.
#23
Drifting
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I'm trying to find an upgrade for my 1987 NA 944 brake booster because it ugly and I don't enjoy seeing it. I've been doing some digging and trying to find a replacement and I found the " Chase Bays Brake Booster Eliminator ". It looks to be mainly for BMV and VW but as we all know they share lots and lots of parts. It uses a square 4 bolt configuration and looks like it'll attach right to your brake arm. Has anyone used this and how did you get around the problem of going for the large three-bolt to the smaller 4 bolt configuration, did you just make an adaptor? Also, how did you go about the issue of needing multiple tubes and pipes leading into the device?
Last edited by T&T Racing; 01-17-2021 at 06:32 PM.