jack_of_diamonds

Thank you very much!

FrenchToast

Because of the geometry of the motion transfer, using a remote actuator like that is never going to be ideal. There is always some kind of friction loss and/or unwanted motion. Without knowing exactly the internals surrounding the sliding balance rod, it's hard to judge how the Kokeln (or the remake) would actually hold up to repeated abuse. I can't say I would be confident putting all that compressive force through a threaded rod. Furthermore, it's attached to the balance bar housing with a tiny nut.

The best is usually a pedal box, where the balance bar is mounted directly to the pedal.

In most cases, the master cylinders must accept a certain tolerance of play - the piston rods won't always be exactly parallel to the piston travel.

MAGK944

The master cylinders and the cast mount in my pictures are stock Tilton items, you can see “Tilton” cast into these parts in the photos and also the part numbers. The mount to the firewall is custom but once you mount both masters to the cast mount and offer that assembly up to the firewall, it becomes obvious what you need to fabricate to attach to where the old booster mounted.

jack_of_diamonds

I've decided to get with a pedal box, now I just need to figure out which lines run where. I know one of the lines that run to the clutch master cylinder and to then the slave cylinder, I just need to figure out now where the hard-mounted hard brake lines run to. The OEM 87' master cylinder has (when facing it from the front of the car) two on the right and one on the left, I am trying to figure out where each of them leads to and how it's divided up. I don't have ABS and the manual picture includes the ABS, this may or may not complicate it but I sure don't know.

V2Rocket

Recall that all the braking force from the pedal is transferred to the pushrod by a tiny (~8mm?) clevis pin.

FrenchToast

I think there are two for the front and one for the rear. There is a splitter for the rear under the rear seat somewhere. I think ABS is the same way, it is three channel (front left, front right, rear).

While I'm not implying that the stock system is good, shear on the pin is different than the compression (buckling) force on the pushrod.

With a vacuum assisted system you're also putting less force into the input components. With a manual system you can put 500, 700+ lbs on that pushrod depending on where you place the lever.

I'm not a fan of the Kokeln piece, but it also has a thicker junction at the balance bar to the pushrod to relieve stress at that point.

V2Rocket

my comment was addressing the integrity of the balance bar.

the stock vac-assist pushrod is also 10mm or 3/8" though.

T&T Racing

The clevis pin is in double shear, so the pin sees 250# not 500#, the clevis puts the pin in double shear. If no clevis, just a single bolt hole, the 500#