WHAMspeed

Yes, the squeak is completely gone. I've seen threads that even after a reseal the hatch may squeak over time so I'll keep an ear on it and post an update. It only took them a day to pull the glass and reseal. He advised letting it sit for a day to set, so it was there for two days. Unfortunately they aren't open on Saturday.

WHAMspeed

The glass sits in the frame and the top of the frame (nearest the top of the car and hatch hinges) is flush with the glass and exposed over time this exposed portion of the frame loses its aesthetic appeal which is the reason I think the rubber piece looks so good. This exposed part of the frame is the area that was sanded down and then the rubber piece was glued over the top of the exposed frame and part of the glass. The excess rubber was trimmed around the frame. In addition the rubber piece has a small extension that runs along the space between the glass and the frame. Basically it is not simply a flat piece of rubber glued to the top. I think that may be the key and probably assists with no squeaking. I attached a couple of pics, I went with the wider of the two rubber molding pieces.

Hopefully these pics will help with you guys that don't live in or around Houston, and maybe a local glass shop can do the same for you. And just MAYBE you can get it done for $150 bucks, good luck.

WHAMspeed

Bumped this only because I added some pics of the actual rubber molding as I think some wanted to see it...

PeteL

Does Carlos make house calls.......to Tampa???

Actually, I had my hatch re-sealed 8 or 9 years ago in Beaumont, TX. The key is to find an independent glass shop. They will more likely be willing to do this kind of job. The national chains will not touch a hatch re-seal.

Potomac-Greg

What's it cost to ship a hatch?

Better yet, find ONE boneyard hatch, and start a core-swap business refurbishing.

Geldfalle 944

I just priced the seal and metal trim to do mine myself. With my dealer discount it came to just over $200. It is tempting to drive down (if for no other reason than to drive my pcar) and have him do this to mine. Maybe I will go on the hunt here to see if I can find someone.

Mike C.

I'd gladly pay $150 to have someone do it right...

kombatrok

Sorry to dig up an old thread, but does anyone know where to get a piece of rubber that would work like what is pictured?

That looks like exactly what I need I just cant find a rubber seal that will work like that.

kombatrok

Sorry to dig up an old thread, but does anyone know where to get a piece of rubber that would work like what is pictured?

That looks like exactly what I need I just cant find a rubber seal that will work like that.

V2Rocket

why dont you give them a call?

Kevsporsche944

I may have to take a short drive down to Houston. Thanks for the info. I was just at the car wash today and it looked like Niagra Falls in the cargo area. I didn't know it was that bad.

sTyleR

I met a local 968 owner who covered the seal with a black piece of weather-proof tape (I can't remember what kind of tape it was) that prevents this type of leakage from happening. If done and trimmed correctly, the finish looks factory and the so-called tape isn't noticeable.

sTyleR

My 924S leaks through the usual glass-frame seal point. However, on occasion I've found that a leak may begin from either of the two points where the hatch bolts onto the roof panel. I found that water would get trapped inside the headliner piece above the rear seats, which eventually caused the headline to droop. Upon removing this trim piece, two holes can be found where the hatch bolts down from the top. During a down-poor, I actually witnessed water passing through these holes. I figure that either the seal has deteriorated or the hatch bolts simply aren't tight enough, but I can't find an easy way to access them. Has anyone dealt with water leaking through either of those bolt points before?