ahahah, wow

well, even if it has to be removed, could always do it later? no issues getting the head of with the manifold still on there though right

just wondering if it will get in the way ...

 

trying to remove exhaust manifold

there is this 1 nut that is SO CLOSE to the manifold can't figure out how to get it off

 

Are you talking about the bolts that hold it to the head? I think with an extension and a wobble head ratchet it all went fine for me.

Then when the head was unbolted, I was able to push the manifold enough to the side to get the head off its studs.

 

we used prybar and wood blocks to keep manifold from getting back onto those pins that are on the head

once the blocks were on, we used prybar to slide the head off the head studs and it worked

seems like a weird thing to do, the side that exhaust manifolds are on is so close to the body of the car, another 1/2" would have made this part of the job SO easy!

so now, we got the head of - looked on the valves - all of the valves are "in" except for one? not even sure if its intake or exhaust, or what it even means; saw cylinder walls of 2 cylinders - and they are VERY good looking

is there any way to clean off all that burned on black stuff?

this has been an interesting job so far

I'm ordering most/all the parts this week and next, then going to be putting it all back together

I'd still like to know of there is any difference in late and early fuel lines, so I could get that taken care of?

also, how do some of you guys get your camshaft housing so nice and shiney? and what would be the steps for doing the same thing to intake manifold? getting those 2 painted/powder coated red or something would make the engine bay look much better!

anyways, thanks for all the help so far, Jim and Kem, Krystar, Elzer and everyone else!

 

I had the same deal, only one valve was visibly bent. I filled the ports up with water and let them sit over night, and in the morning, the water had drained out of 3 other ports, meaning I had 4 bent valves The other three I couldnt even tell were bent. But, better save than sorry.


I was told to not mess with that, due to the chance of getting crud stuck between the piston and cylinder wall. The advice I was given was to run a few cans of seafoam through it after its all back together and running.


We're doin the same job on opposite sides of the country!

 

early and late fuel rails are way different. early ones had fpr/fpd on the rear of the rail. later ones had one on each end. early fuel lines run in from the driver side of the engine. later, it runs on the pass side.


elzer...that's a pretty interesting leak test hehe. just be sure to get all the water out. u won't wanna be creating milkshake. for valve testing, i like to put the valve shaft into a drill and just spin it. u'll either see the wobbling or the balance of the drill will be wobbling.

yea don't mess with the carbon on the piston. just leave it.

after u replace the valves, do take it to machine shop to get decked and magnafluxed to check for head cracks.

 

The head was off the car when I did that haha. This was the way recommended to me by a mechanic friend of mine.

 

maybe I will take a picture of this, seems like there is a nice layer of this black "crap" on the piston, that's why I was wondering

so fuel rails are different, what about fuel lines? different lengths? fittings/connectors?

also, on the exhaust manifold - am I supposed to use new bolts/studs and washers/nuts when putting it back together? I know it is new washers/nuts for the cylinder head

thanks!

and yes we are, lol

wanna race to see who gets this done faster ... these are N/A's so how bad can it be

btw, Lindsey has a nice fuel rail kit, would be really neat, but that might be $$$ better saved towards a V8 swap or suspension/brakes!

 

yer putting new nuts and washers? I never did....hmmm wonder if yer supposed to. i know conrod nuts, yer not supposed to.

hell, i even replaced one of my exhaust studs with a bolt. it's the one on 2nd cylinder i think, the one that hits the strut tower.

 

lol

one of those studs for exhaust manifold came out with the nut when we were taking the nuts off

not sure if the head I'll be getting will have these on or not ... so ...

also, I was looking on Pelican ... fricking $3.50 for a nut on exhaust manifold? REALLY

 

is this vacuum hose kit for all 944's?

http://www.lindseyracing.com/LR/Pors...VDK-VHK-S.html

I got a package that came in today - new coolant tank, nuts for exhaust, and updated waterpump. All from Rennbay. Travis is THE man!

though I am somewhat confused. Rennbay has fuel lines. Their "delux" kit says that its for both - early and late cars. Which is why I was asking of early and late lines are the same?

Looking good so far. Should be sending my head out tomorrow too!