someone please explain this to me ...
#16
Thread Starter
Drifting
ok
I'm going to go on and remove the fuel rail
I guess I have to loosen the big bolt on the end first?
seems like some stuff on this car is kinda old, I'm surprised that it only suffered the timing belt failure right now
but given some time and some funds, I can do this
I'm planing to replace all the vacum/fuel/coolant lines now, and thanks to Kem I'm considering injectors as well - get them cleaned? Kem suggested Witch Hunter? or buy new ones?
I'm going to go on and remove the fuel rail
I guess I have to loosen the big bolt on the end first?
seems like some stuff on this car is kinda old, I'm surprised that it only suffered the timing belt failure right now
but given some time and some funds, I can do this
I'm planing to replace all the vacum/fuel/coolant lines now, and thanks to Kem I'm considering injectors as well - get them cleaned? Kem suggested Witch Hunter? or buy new ones?
#17
ok
I'm going to go on and remove the fuel rail
I guess I have to loosen the big bolt on the end first?
Put a cup of some sort under it, or a bunch of old rags, it'll relieve the fuel pressure in the rail and make removal less messy. If the car hasn't been started all winter, there's probably no pressure anyway.
seems like some stuff on this car is kinda old, I'm surprised that it only suffered the timing belt failure right now By doing all this now you'll prevent failures in the future.
but given some time and some funds, I can do this I used to be apprehensive about doing repairs. In the end, it's all just nuts and bolts. Follow directions, be organized (hardware in marked baggies), and use your head and you'll do just fine. The biggest advantage to DIY is that you'll learn a ton.
I'm planing to replace all the vacum/fuel/coolant lines now, and thanks to Kem I'm considering injectors as well - get them cleaned? Kem suggested Witch Hunter? Can't go wrong with Witch Hunter. As long as they test out ok you won't have to buy new. If they don't test ok then you're only out $60 or so. or buy new ones?
I'm going to go on and remove the fuel rail
I guess I have to loosen the big bolt on the end first?
Put a cup of some sort under it, or a bunch of old rags, it'll relieve the fuel pressure in the rail and make removal less messy. If the car hasn't been started all winter, there's probably no pressure anyway.
seems like some stuff on this car is kinda old, I'm surprised that it only suffered the timing belt failure right now By doing all this now you'll prevent failures in the future.
but given some time and some funds, I can do this I used to be apprehensive about doing repairs. In the end, it's all just nuts and bolts. Follow directions, be organized (hardware in marked baggies), and use your head and you'll do just fine. The biggest advantage to DIY is that you'll learn a ton.
I'm planing to replace all the vacum/fuel/coolant lines now, and thanks to Kem I'm considering injectors as well - get them cleaned? Kem suggested Witch Hunter? Can't go wrong with Witch Hunter. As long as they test out ok you won't have to buy new. If they don't test ok then you're only out $60 or so. or buy new ones?
#18
Thread Starter
Drifting
thanks Jim
I went ahead and disconnected all the lines from the rail, wasn't sure how to take it off - but Clark's says once everything is disconnected, just pull it out gently - so that's the next step
and there wasn't any pressure at all and no fuel
this is fun, LOL
I went ahead and disconnected all the lines from the rail, wasn't sure how to take it off - but Clark's says once everything is disconnected, just pull it out gently - so that's the next step
and there wasn't any pressure at all and no fuel
this is fun, LOL
#20
u need to pull firmly but gently straight upwards. the o-rings are what's keeping the injectors in the intake manifold port.
u broke the harness side clip? or the injector side clip? injector side...u might have to buy a new injector. harness side, i'm sure u can find a junkyard replacement for the clip and solder it in.
like jim said, it's all just nuts and bolts. by the end of this journey, u'll be able to do a head gasket change blindfolded
u broke the harness side clip? or the injector side clip? injector side...u might have to buy a new injector. harness side, i'm sure u can find a junkyard replacement for the clip and solder it in.
like jim said, it's all just nuts and bolts. by the end of this journey, u'll be able to do a head gasket change blindfolded
#21
Thread Starter
Drifting
I broke the one that goes from the car to the injector
I tried to pry one end so I could slide the plug off the injector - saw it move and went "YAY!" and then saw a crack
I broke this
http://www.paragon-products.com/Fuel..._p/920145b.htm
I broke the plastic end thing thats on the far right just after the metal clip
also, how should the injectors look? mine are kind of dirty around the bottom and I think I saw a broken seal, though I never had any leaks
I tried to pry one end so I could slide the plug off the injector - saw it move and went "YAY!" and then saw a crack
I broke this
http://www.paragon-products.com/Fuel..._p/920145b.htm
I broke the plastic end thing thats on the far right just after the metal clip
also, how should the injectors look? mine are kind of dirty around the bottom and I think I saw a broken seal, though I never had any leaks
#22
i've broken my harness side clips too. as long as they still click on and make a connection, it's not critical. change it out if you feel the need to.
injectors should be clean. any dirty is probably oil from the AOS recirculating vacuum.
injectors should be clean. any dirty is probably oil from the AOS recirculating vacuum.
#24
Thread Starter
Drifting
Ok
I think there is an oil leak behind the camshaft housing thingie (the part that says PORSCHE on it) - behind it right where that engine hoist thing is - its oily, and the last allen bolt on the bottom has some oil on it - so that will need fixing
I was also wondering, how do you guys clean up the camshaft housing, and intake manifold, so its nice? Mine has some dirt and stuff on it , would be nice to get it all cleaned up a little.
All in all, for starters - not so bad, I have a couple of baggies labeled with bolts so I know what goes where for now.
Had to run out and buy a metric set of the allen sockets, bought the last one at the Autozone too!
I think there is an oil leak behind the camshaft housing thingie (the part that says PORSCHE on it) - behind it right where that engine hoist thing is - its oily, and the last allen bolt on the bottom has some oil on it - so that will need fixing
I was also wondering, how do you guys clean up the camshaft housing, and intake manifold, so its nice? Mine has some dirt and stuff on it , would be nice to get it all cleaned up a little.
All in all, for starters - not so bad, I have a couple of baggies labeled with bolts so I know what goes where for now.
Had to run out and buy a metric set of the allen sockets, bought the last one at the Autozone too!
#25
Pro
Wait untill your wife/girlfriend/mother isnt home and run it through the dishwasher!
#26
Thread Starter
Drifting
that does not sound too safe though?
does it make any sense, or can the intake manifold have any work done to it? get it powdercoated?
hell, it would look amazing if it was simply washed
wish I still had access to sandblasting machines, light glass bead blast would make it look pretty good
#27
Pro
LMAO
that does not sound too safe though?
does it make any sense, or can the intake manifold have any work done to it? get it powdercoated?
hell, it would look amazing if it was simply washed
wish I still had access to sandblasting machines, light glass bead blast would make it look pretty good
that does not sound too safe though?
does it make any sense, or can the intake manifold have any work done to it? get it powdercoated?
hell, it would look amazing if it was simply washed
wish I still had access to sandblasting machines, light glass bead blast would make it look pretty good
I took the intake manifold, cleaned it up real good with brake cleaner and water, and painted it with a rattle can of bronze wheel paint.
After it dried, I dropped it on accident, and it didnt even chip!
#29
That's a very common leak point, and an easy gasket to replace. Remove the 3 bolts, clean up both surfaces, put new cork gasket in, reassemble. The torque is super low, something like 6 ft/lbs, don't over tighten and squish the cork gasket.