nice pics, jim. very helpful !!


man roman, your already started surgery on your car??!! im uber jealous >_>

 

Welp, I'll know once I get it running again. I'm not really worried about it. It's high temp paint, since wheels do heat up quit a bit. Worst case, it flakes off or something *shrug*

 

ah thanks Jim, thats exactly where it looks like its leaking from - I think you showed me that a couple of years ago when you helped me with getting air out of the cooling system?

also, I'm going to go over and see if this is mentioned on Clark's, but, which cylinder is the 1st when I am facing the car? one closer to firewall or one closer to radiator?

also, I don't have a flywheel tool, doing all this because broke the timing belt

we did get the cam gear lines to align with the new belt on, and we did get the flywheel (I think?) line to align to that little window - that Clark mentions, but I don't have a flywheel lock tool

I thought that once I order one, and get it here, even with cylinder head off - I could still put the flywheel lock on then?

or should I order one and wait with taking off the head?

I tried to look for the Haynes (?) manual for Porsche, but all they had was Pontiac, so I may go on and look online, I figured with Clark's manual and Rennlist, I should do alright though

any other "while you are in there" jobs you guys would advise? my car used to slightly overheat, but that was due to fans not working, I got a new fan relay, and new fan switch that goes into radiator - but I was wondering if it would make sense to do the thermostat and waterpump? or since mine doesn't leak, change thermostat to a lower temp one? any other seals, or stuff you guys can think of?

 

http://www.amazon.com/Porsche-944-Au.../dp/1850106576

that is the haynes repair manual

and WYDT, roman, do the water pump and thermostat. both belts are off already, its just a matter of an extra hour or so to get it off. since the head is off oil cooler seals will be a cinch. even though its good, do it anyway !!

just make sure the thermostat and the fan switch match each temperature or they will operate at different temps causing fluctuation and inaccurate temp reading and overheating etc.

and cylinder one is closest to the radiator, per haynes manual. buy that thing, it has pictures !!!

 

trying to remove the intake manifold now ... not sure what needs to come off and what can stay in the car?

and I can't remember what fan switch I bought, I think it was low temp, haven't put it on yet though

 

MOAR update: took off the intake manifold- found a CRAP load of BAD vacuum lines! there are 3 or 4 hoses that have huge and long cracks in them, 1 looks likes its ready to collapse!

took off the camshaft assembly - I know what you guys mean by lifters falling out! what me and my dad did was, he stood closer to the windshield area and held the lifters with both hands on his end - and I did the same by the bumper/front fender area - and we just lifted it off of there

I can see the valves/springs/retainers/guides and everything now - though I don't know how to tell if the valve is bad or not, head is still in the car; my dad said that if one is REALLY bent, then if we could turn the engine we should be able to tell which is bent

oh well

we are down to simply removing the cylinder head from the car - I guess I have to remove those 10 HUGE nuts? 5 inside and 5 on the block? how do I break those loose? my dad left for a while, I tried to give it a shot, but man they are ON there!

I also had a question about exhaust manifold - does it come out WITH the head, or can it be disconnected and be left in the car?

Thanks!

All in all, not bad, I think we spent about 3-4 hours total yesterday, and about 2-3 hours today, taking our time

not the fastest, but we have time, and its my first time doing anything like this - I like it!

 

heh use a long handle ratchet or even a breaker bar.

yea with the cambox, once u get it off the studs (1/2" or so) instead of lifting straight up, if u quickly lift up and tilt to pass side, the viscocity and suction of the oil will keep lifters from falling out. but it's risky.

take yer time the first time and do it right!

 

see, we tried to lift it off slowly + the car sat for a while - at first I said "man, what were those lifters those guys kept talking about" - so my dad tried to "wiggle" it off - but we forgot 2 small 10mm bolts that are by the cam gear - they were so dirty, had to feel by fingers to find them! - but by that time the lifters started slowly sliding off

so we just held them in with fingers and took the whole thing off

how can I tell if these lifters are good or bad and need replacement? take each one out and inspect for ... cracks or?

I sprayed WD40 and PB Blaster on those nuts, hopefully that helps - car is outside on kind of a sunny side, so its a PITA to spend 3 hours under direct sunshine, LOL

I'm trying to come up with a list of what I'll be ding:

1) rebuitl cylinder head
2) silicone coolant and vacuum lines
3) widefire head gasket kit
4) injectors cleaned/tested
5) new coolant tank!
6) various other seals (rear camshaft, will look into oil cooler seal etc)
7) SS/braided/fire sleeved fuel lines
8) oil/coolant/brake fluid change with filters etc
9) possibly - waterpump - new or rebuilt?

anything else you guys can think of - I'm all open to ideas; I hope to get this finished up by the end of April and/or begining of Summer and go autocrossing

 

there's been posts about how u can press down on the center button to try to compress it. but a good lifter should only compress a little bit.

oh if nobody told u, you should store lifters submerged in oil. just put em in a tupperware.

i think widefire is overkill for a NA.

 

we flipped over the camshaft assembly and put it in one of the new clean plastic garbage bags upside down for now, we slid them all back into the assembly as much as we could (not all can be inside at the same time)

 

and ... the head nuts are off, trying to fish out the last 2 washers right now, the head has been broken loose already, so it's ready to come out

my question is though, does it come out with the exhaust manifold, or does exhaust manifold stay in the car?

what would be easier for once it all goes back in?

whew, its 30+* C outside, way too warm for me

 

I was able to get my head off with the exhaust manifold still in place.

 

and did you have any trouble with anything when you were putting the head back on? with gaskets or anything? does removing the manifold make more room or not necessary?

 

hehe exh mani at the port is a bitch. u have to prybar or 2x4 the engine to get enough clearance for the 1-4 off.
so far i've always done it with removing the exh mani. but dunno if other way around is any better

taking off exhaust manifold from head:
1) 8 nuts on studs
2) prying something
3) eventually prob have to undo 3-4 of the exhaust studs to get the thing to clear

taking of exhaust manifold at the 2-1 Y pipe:
1) 6 nuts on bolts at the y pipe, 3 bolt on each branch.
2) have to get under the car
3) need 12" extension


pick yer poison

 

I havnt put my head back on yet, so I dont know. I hope its not too bad!