I commend you for your response. Most people on the internet would have just gotten defensive. I am curious about your brake fluid. Needing a brake flush myself and wanting something more than what is the norm, do you sell it locally? I would hate to pay shipping for fluid when I live here. IE HP is in CA.

 

Are you guys Blue-Loctit'ing the Large cap-head Bridge Bolts as well?

 

Geldfalle 944 - sent you a PM

xschop - I was actually told by someone at Brembo Motorsports (I don't recall who now) that you weren't supposed to take the calipers apart in that manner i.e. remove the bridge bolts and separate the halves. I don't recall the reason or much else. Just that.

And whenever I've tried to get them out on a trashed caliper just to see what I could see, I can never get them apart, i.e. the bridge bolts out so I'm impressed you were able to do so!

All that said, I would, without a doubt, find the strongest Loctitie available and coat the bolts with it. For that matter I would probably try to replace the bolts as I believe I read somewhere that in a situation such as this, the bolts lose some of their strength or holding power through the process of removal. This could be just crap but again, with brakes I would play on the safe side.

Metric and Multistandard would probably be just about the only place you will find the correct bolt/pitch/length. Other folks here might have additional sources I'm not aware of.

 

Bingo....
That clears the air for me...Brembo's little hush-hush no longer exist's...
The bridge bolts are zinc-dichromate and were galvanized to the cast alloy of the caliper. I see why he told you to not try and remove them. Did he also tell you to heat the guide plate bolts for removal? It is well known fact that heating cast alloy is a NO-NO as the metal goes dead-soft in that area and is very easy to gall. I thread chased the Bridge bolts and am installing new. The bolts had about 5/8" of the insertion thread's zinc coating sacrificed by the galvanic reaction to the cast alloy...a design flaw IMO.
I will use Blue Loctite on the guide plate screws and red on the new bridge bolts then...Thanks alot for your info/response.

 

Somebody mentioned stainless above...also a bad idea for use on cast alloy components.

 

You can use stainless fasteners on aluminum alloy with a transition metal based anti-seize compound. My streetfighter bike has had stainless Exhaust bolts in the alloy head and I have pulled the exhuast off a few times over the years and the bolts are like brand new so I reuse them with more anti-seize.

 

Massive thread hijack here!


Pics?

Mine....powder coated 1 bolt at a time.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2666/...89821dff_b.jpg

 

Strickly Brembo brake tech here...That rear Swingarm looks familiar though.
Can't buy one of these.....about 7 bikes in 1.....
http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...=12859&page=19

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...ght=chaindrive

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...ndrive+housing

 

I had a similar problem with this vendor, 3x the time promised delay.

 

If you guys do go thru the trouble of powder coating, you can save yourself alot of headache by covering the piston bores with large washers with bolts thru them fastened by a nut. Set them on the bore holes before spraying...works for the caliper paint process as well.
Whatever you do, do NOT get overspray in the bores....

 

My suggestion would be to leave the pistons in and the dust boots on. The dust boots are a throw-away; you're going to replace them anyway. By leaving these pieces in the caliper you ensure no powder gets in the bores, period. And has powder coating does have a thickness to it, you will ensure the new dust boots will fit. The tolerances on calipers is very tight and even the .01 mm of the powder will make the dust boots not fit.

This is simply my experience.... YMMV

 

Thanks Pro. After I get them re-coated, what is a fair price to ask for them as I don't need them since the RX7 calipers worked out nicely on the back?
They are for an 87-up Turbo, 94mm bolt spread.

 

PM sent

 

Here's what I tried PM'ing..... Thanks Pro, I was going to ask $... shipped. I am going to be building big brake kits for these cars. I have not decided which company to use for calipers. I can make the adapters for any caliper out there. I like the SSBC brand, and Wilwoods. These Brembos are old school with the crossover tubes and overrated. Thanks for all the helpand info, Rob

 

Oh sorry.... will have to look into that PM thing.

Interesting as I don't like the SSBC calipers. You'll notice they have a very closed design which is very bad for cooling and adds significant weight. I don't know what the SSBC cost you but frankly any "performance" kit I saw with SSBC calipers I would immediately discount as bling rather than actually a performance oriented kit. The only place you really see the SSBC pieces is in the street rod market where the sho is far more important than the go.

As the Wilwoods, they make some decent calipers. Certainly there are several that are literally copies of the Brembo/Stoptech design, with dust boots and aluminum pistons.

gues I don't understand why you wouldn't like the Brembos. As to the x-over tubes, the exposed x-over tubes are a plus. When the x-over is embedded in the body of the caliper the fluid in the x-over is exposed to greater thermal loads. Not what you want. No one making a racing caliper puts the x-over in the body. Look at the racing calipers from Brembo, Stoptech, PFC, Wilwood (I can't think of any others at the moment) and they ALL have exposed x-over tubes.

Second, with an external x-over tube you can have one caliper that will fit both a leading and trailing mounting position as all you need to do is swap the x-over from one side to the to accommodate the different mounting configurations.

Just my $.02

Michael