Is a power bleeder necessary?
#1
Three Wheelin'
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I just replaced the clutch master and slave cylinders and I used the traditional method of bleeding. I have been reading that you must usa a power bleeder to do this job right. Is this the case? The clutch goes down about an inch before it starts to engage if that helps.
#3
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No, a power bleeder is NOT required, I've done both jobs both ways. It's as easy as this..if you don't have a power bleeder, it's a two person job, and a pain in the **** at that. If you do have a power bleeder, it's a one man job and not very tough, except getting to the clutch bleeder.. that's a bit tricky. My clutch moves about an inch before anything really happens, that sounds about normal, IMHO..
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#5
Nordschleife Master
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A power bleeder really won't help much if you are starting from a dry system, which you get when replacing these.
If you are down to only a 1" travel and can start and shift the thing you are home free. Just hit every manhole cover you see in the road and you will shake out the rest of air in no time.
The final IceShark trick for bleeding a dry clutch.
<img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
If you are down to only a 1" travel and can start and shift the thing you are home free. Just hit every manhole cover you see in the road and you will shake out the rest of air in no time.
The final IceShark trick for bleeding a dry clutch.
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#6
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[quote] If you are down to only a 1" travel and can start and shift the thing you are home free. Just hit every manhole cover you see in the road and you will shake out the rest of air in no time. <hr></blockquote>
Can I borrow your wheels when I need to do that trick?
I used my power bleeder on a new system (all hydrolics replaced or rebuilt) Everything was cool. I hope I have the same success this time since there is not a drop of fluid in the car.
Can I borrow your wheels when I need to do that trick?
![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
I used my power bleeder on a new system (all hydrolics replaced or rebuilt) Everything was cool. I hope I have the same success this time since there is not a drop of fluid in the car.
#7
Nordschleife Master
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Well, you need to use your eyes and common sense when choosing going over a manhole cover. And no, you can't borrow my wheels as you seem to have a big black cloud over your head.
If you read it, I replaced my master and slave, pre-filled, no bleeding, and all was better. Just shake out the last bubbles which you can't do with a power bleeder unless the pressure is way up and the fluid thick.
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If you read it, I replaced my master and slave, pre-filled, no bleeding, and all was better. Just shake out the last bubbles which you can't do with a power bleeder unless the pressure is way up and the fluid thick.
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#8
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[quote] And no, you can't borrow my wheels as you seem to have a big black cloud over your head. <hr></blockquote>
The fire has been out for a while.
I agree on shaking out the bubbles. Same thing with the cooling system.
The power bleeder does seem to force them back in unless you burp it a few times. Perhaps it was just me, but I always got a soft pedal with my brakes when doing the pump and hold method. Seems like multi piston calipers are a bitch to get right.
The fire has been out for a while.
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The power bleeder does seem to force them back in unless you burp it a few times. Perhaps it was just me, but I always got a soft pedal with my brakes when doing the pump and hold method. Seems like multi piston calipers are a bitch to get right.
#9
Nordschleife Master
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Brian, the brakes and clutch are much different on the 944. You can't shake out air on brakes. But brakes have bleed nipples on the top of air traps. That is a cinch to do, whatever method. Apply wheel grease to bleeder threads if need be so you don't back track air.
The clutch slave has bleeder on the 9 o'clock position. You need to shake air if it ever gets dry.
The clutch slave has bleeder on the 9 o'clock position. You need to shake air if it ever gets dry.