Stainless Steel fuel lines with AN fittings?
03-29-2003, 10:20 AM
#18
Drifting
What dash size are the SS braided hoses used for this application? -2 and -4? (I can't remember how the dashes go - by 1/4 inch incrememnts, or 16ths?)
What are the hose lengths?
What are the hose lengths?
03-29-2003, 10:40 AM
#20
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by 944LT1:
<strong> The factory crimps are much stronger than screw clamps and they cannot vibrate loose. The factory hoses fail because the rubber dries out and rots. I paid $97 (including $13 shipping) for 6' of a/n hose and all the fittings needed. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">I hate to linger on this one but you are wrong. The factory crimps, even on non-rotted hoses, will still pull loose off the factory fittings.
On the other hand about the price.. your running the lines into an LT1. You don't need all the metric connectors to match the A/N size AND PITCH to the size on our fuel rails. Most of the time when 944 drivers feel the need to go with a full AN setup they also switch over to a whole different/modified fuel rail with the correct threads for the AN application. You having a "good ole chevy" under the hood are more than likely set up for it.
<strong> The factory crimps are much stronger than screw clamps and they cannot vibrate loose. The factory hoses fail because the rubber dries out and rots. I paid $97 (including $13 shipping) for 6' of a/n hose and all the fittings needed. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">I hate to linger on this one but you are wrong. The factory crimps, even on non-rotted hoses, will still pull loose off the factory fittings.
On the other hand about the price.. your running the lines into an LT1. You don't need all the metric connectors to match the A/N size AND PITCH to the size on our fuel rails. Most of the time when 944 drivers feel the need to go with a full AN setup they also switch over to a whole different/modified fuel rail with the correct threads for the AN application. You having a "good ole chevy" under the hood are more than likely set up for it.
03-29-2003, 10:43 AM
#21
Drifting
I, for one, would like to do my car right. (all personal judgements aside - I would like to OVERdo it, and have a set up that allows me to replace the hoses easily)
So, anyone have any answers to my posts on this topic?
So, anyone have any answers to my posts on this topic?
03-29-2003, 10:49 AM
#22
Keith,
I will check into what parts and pitch size et al are required sometime this next week, and let you know. I am still thinking rubber hose rather than braid steel for my set up, but I still think that its money well spent. It sure costs less than an engine fire...
Regards,
I will check into what parts and pitch size et al are required sometime this next week, and let you know. I am still thinking rubber hose rather than braid steel for my set up, but I still think that its money well spent. It sure costs less than an engine fire...
Regards,
03-29-2003, 12:24 PM
#23
Burning Brakes
I recently made some braided fuel lines for my 951. I spent lots of time researching what everyone sells and was very unimpressed with what I saw. For $70 you can buy two stainless hoses with 4 fancy hose clamps from a few sources. I wouldn't do this. I was not comfortable putting the high pressure hose onto the threaded dampener fitting with only a clamp. Porsche used a screw on fitting for a reason. Following the Porsche philosophy I searched country trying to find a female hose end. I found two sources after a few hours of long distance calling.
In my opinion the SS hose, is a all show and no go. I used Aeroquip hose, some other brands may be a higher quality. I found that in order to keep from getting sliced open either never let your arms go near the hose or buy the flame proof hose shield.
The PO of my car had monkeyed with the fuel lines and cut a chuck out of the high pressure metal line from the fuel pump. It was a major ordeal, the car ended up catching fire for about 2 seconds. I was so feed up, I ended up buying new factory metal line and hoses, plug and play install and I'll never have to worry them again. I spent about $120 buying supplies and AN wrenches. I planned on selling a few kits and recoup my costs. I was so unimpressed with the finished product I, didn’t want to have my name attached to someone else’s engine fire so I decided to scrap the idea and threw all the stuff in a box.
If you still want to have SS lines here's everything you need to make them yourself.
First you need some -6 AN braided hose. You can buy Aeroquip AQP from Jegs for less then $5 a foot from Jegs
<a href="http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=2701&prmenbr=361" target="_blank">Jegg's Aeroquip AQP hose page</a>
Next you need hose clamps, if you want the fancy ones you can also source those from Jegs for $5.69 each.
<a href="http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=3973&prmenbr=361" target="_blank">Jeg's fancy hose clamp page</a>
If you want to have a factory like connection on the dampener you need a female M16 x 1.5 to -6 AN adaptor. I bought mine from Bat Inc I think I paid $40 for two including freight. Goodridge also makes them I couldn’t find one in the USA for less then $30 to $40 apiece. The only place that had 1 in stock was in Indy.
The next step would be buy a flair tool and alter the metal lines coming out of the shock tower. I didn't get that far.
If anyone needs any -6 hose I have plenty and I also have 1 unused hose end and another one that was mounted once and is already installed on the hose.
It took BAT a few weeks to supply the hose ends, I can ship them out Monday, fpr wjat ever I paid. Drop me a line if you’re interested. I hate seeing this stuff collect dust.
In my opinion the SS hose, is a all show and no go. I used Aeroquip hose, some other brands may be a higher quality. I found that in order to keep from getting sliced open either never let your arms go near the hose or buy the flame proof hose shield.
The PO of my car had monkeyed with the fuel lines and cut a chuck out of the high pressure metal line from the fuel pump. It was a major ordeal, the car ended up catching fire for about 2 seconds. I was so feed up, I ended up buying new factory metal line and hoses, plug and play install and I'll never have to worry them again. I spent about $120 buying supplies and AN wrenches. I planned on selling a few kits and recoup my costs. I was so unimpressed with the finished product I, didn’t want to have my name attached to someone else’s engine fire so I decided to scrap the idea and threw all the stuff in a box.
If you still want to have SS lines here's everything you need to make them yourself.
First you need some -6 AN braided hose. You can buy Aeroquip AQP from Jegs for less then $5 a foot from Jegs
<a href="http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=2701&prmenbr=361" target="_blank">Jegg's Aeroquip AQP hose page</a>
Next you need hose clamps, if you want the fancy ones you can also source those from Jegs for $5.69 each.
<a href="http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=3973&prmenbr=361" target="_blank">Jeg's fancy hose clamp page</a>
If you want to have a factory like connection on the dampener you need a female M16 x 1.5 to -6 AN adaptor. I bought mine from Bat Inc I think I paid $40 for two including freight. Goodridge also makes them I couldn’t find one in the USA for less then $30 to $40 apiece. The only place that had 1 in stock was in Indy.
The next step would be buy a flair tool and alter the metal lines coming out of the shock tower. I didn't get that far.
If anyone needs any -6 hose I have plenty and I also have 1 unused hose end and another one that was mounted once and is already installed on the hose.
It took BAT a few weeks to supply the hose ends, I can ship them out Monday, fpr wjat ever I paid. Drop me a line if you’re interested. I hate seeing this stuff collect dust.
03-29-2003, 12:52 PM
#24
Three Wheelin'
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I did mine with the threaded adapters where I could then I just used clamps in the other places. I did not know about the other options to be able to make the metal pipe ends accept the proper fittings or I probably would have done it that way. I also got the metric fittings from BAT. I also made one up for the line that goes from the dampener to the rail.
<img src="http://www.marsmann.com/tazman/Pics/Augengine.JPG" alt=" - " />
<img src="http://www.marsmann.com/tazman/Pics/Augengine.JPG" alt=" - " />
03-30-2003, 11:41 AM
#28
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by Travis - sflraver:
I hate to linger on this one but you are wrong. The factory crimps, even on non-rotted hoses, will still pull loose off the factory fittings.
On the other hand about the price.. your running the lines into an LT1. You don't need all the metric connectors to match the A/N size AND PITCH to the size on our fuel rails. Most of the time when 944 drivers feel the need to go with a full AN setup they also switch over to a whole different/modified fuel rail with the correct threads for the AN application. You having a "good ole chevy" under the hood are more than likely set up for it.[/QB]</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">This is a quote from the maker of those High Quality screw on clamps:
Aeroquip's Pro Clamp connectors are made of red anodized aluminum for a professional look. Can be used on any rubber or stainless steel braided hose. Not for use on brake lines, air conditioning, power steering or other high pressure lines. Come complete with a quality brand clamp.
I guess we can agree to disagree....I have never seen a "Certified Mechanic" use a screw type clamp on a high pressure application (over 25lbs).
I have also never seen a crimped high pressure hose pull loose from its fitting unless a)the hose was damaged or rotted b)the crimp was damaged.
I have seen wrecked cars (my brother inlaw use to own a junk yard and recovery service) where the High Pressure hose was busted in half yet the fittings were still in tack on each end.
That being said I have seen guys run air hoses at 120lbs or more and have screw hose clamps on the ends.
My point is screw clamps on high pressure hose will work BUT they are not the proper fitting for that application.
I hate to linger on this one but you are wrong. The factory crimps, even on non-rotted hoses, will still pull loose off the factory fittings.
On the other hand about the price.. your running the lines into an LT1. You don't need all the metric connectors to match the A/N size AND PITCH to the size on our fuel rails. Most of the time when 944 drivers feel the need to go with a full AN setup they also switch over to a whole different/modified fuel rail with the correct threads for the AN application. You having a "good ole chevy" under the hood are more than likely set up for it.[/QB]</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">This is a quote from the maker of those High Quality screw on clamps:
Aeroquip's Pro Clamp connectors are made of red anodized aluminum for a professional look. Can be used on any rubber or stainless steel braided hose. Not for use on brake lines, air conditioning, power steering or other high pressure lines. Come complete with a quality brand clamp.
I guess we can agree to disagree....I have never seen a "Certified Mechanic" use a screw type clamp on a high pressure application (over 25lbs).
I have also never seen a crimped high pressure hose pull loose from its fitting unless a)the hose was damaged or rotted b)the crimp was damaged.
I have seen wrecked cars (my brother inlaw use to own a junk yard and recovery service) where the High Pressure hose was busted in half yet the fittings were still in tack on each end.
That being said I have seen guys run air hoses at 120lbs or more and have screw hose clamps on the ends.
My point is screw clamps on high pressure hose will work BUT they are not the proper fitting for that application.
03-30-2003, 11:58 AM
#29
Drifting
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From what I remember when researching this, the metric fittings are to some DIN standard, that although are metric, are not STANDARD pipe threads! I'm still waiting to get an answer from a buddy of mine who deals with the factory if he has found out from the original specs exactly what that standard is, and then hopefully talk to a few supplers about getting abapters. If you've looked at the later fuel rails aswell, you will see that it's pretty tight on a couple of the 90 deg adapters, probably too tight for an AN fitting plus adapter. the adapters build up around 10mm in length, and would make it difficult.
Anyhow, I'm still looking (don't hold your breath!), but you never know.......
Anyhow, I'm still looking (don't hold your breath!), but you never know.......