ROD BEARING R&R
01-23-2002, 03:44 PM
#16
Three Wheelin'
Keith, How in the heck did you get the crossover pipe off the turbo with the intake still on? If you remove the brake master cyl heat shield, can you reach the bolts that way???
01-23-2002, 04:01 PM
#17
Drifting
I have a 17mm/19mm combination box end offset (on both ends) wrench (pretty common),
and a 17mm open end/box end,
and a 19mm box end/open end,
and a stubby 17mm box end/open end.
I work through the slot between intake and brake sheild (oh yeah - you have to remove dipstick tube also) and from beneath. I lock one wrench or another against something solid and immovable (like the pipe itself) and work the other wrench - usually going back and forth between top and bottom several times. It is my least favorite part of the job, and it goes much faster if you have someone else on top of the car or vice-versa.
It never occurred to me to remove the intake to access the bolts (that's a lot more fasteners to remove and retorque...)
and a 17mm open end/box end,
and a 19mm box end/open end,
and a stubby 17mm box end/open end.
I work through the slot between intake and brake sheild (oh yeah - you have to remove dipstick tube also) and from beneath. I lock one wrench or another against something solid and immovable (like the pipe itself) and work the other wrench - usually going back and forth between top and bottom several times. It is my least favorite part of the job, and it goes much faster if you have someone else on top of the car or vice-versa.
It never occurred to me to remove the intake to access the bolts (that's a lot more fasteners to remove and retorque...)
01-23-2002, 05:44 PM
#19
Three Wheelin'
Keith,
Knowing me, I'd probably end up rounding off the bolts using your method. Still, it must be a bee-atch with the heat shield in place. I can get the intake off in about 30 minutes, but that's with air tools. I fashioned a bracket out of wood to elevate the fuel rail above the cam tower to hold it up & out of the way so to leave the fuel hoses connected. It's a straight shot to the bolts after that. Your method is good though, you don't have to buy new intake manifold gaskets.
Tom
'87 951
'86 Supra
Knowing me, I'd probably end up rounding off the bolts using your method. Still, it must be a bee-atch with the heat shield in place. I can get the intake off in about 30 minutes, but that's with air tools. I fashioned a bracket out of wood to elevate the fuel rail above the cam tower to hold it up & out of the way so to leave the fuel hoses connected. It's a straight shot to the bolts after that. Your method is good though, you don't have to buy new intake manifold gaskets.
Tom
'87 951
'86 Supra
01-24-2003, 11:25 AM
#21
Drifting
How many miles are on your current rod bearings Danno? On your engine?
Are there ways to find out if your rod bearings are healthy, without dropping the oil pan?
My car has 142k miles and I don't know if the first owner tracked it. It did have the PCA sticker on the window, though.
Are there ways to find out if your rod bearings are healthy, without dropping the oil pan?
My car has 142k miles and I don't know if the first owner tracked it. It did have the PCA sticker on the window, though.
01-24-2003, 01:09 PM
#22
Three Wheelin'
I am half way through this job and have some comments:
1. While it must be possible to remove the cross-over from the turbo intake with the manifold on, these bolts were very difficult even with the intake manifold off.
2. It doesn't take long to take the intake manifold off, and the gaskets are dirt cheap. The brake booster heat shield is the biggest pain up top.
3. While the intake manifold is off, I am taking changing out some cooling hoses, the heater valve and vacuum lines, which all need it (the heater valve is leaking on my new clutch.
4. I had my injectors cleaned and flow balanced at a local diesel injector shop (NW Diesel Injection in New Westminster BC.) They could verify they had the appropriate equipment and training, and gave a written before/after summary. It turned out to be a waste of money, as the injectors were balanced within 1% both before and after, the spray pattern improved a little and the flow rates increased about 1%. Good piece of mind, though, and they installed new filter screens, O rings and spacers, and pintle caps. Total cost Can$120 plus tax; thats about $75 of those funny US dollars you guys use.
I received my parts today, and will be changing the rod bearings this weekend.
1. While it must be possible to remove the cross-over from the turbo intake with the manifold on, these bolts were very difficult even with the intake manifold off.
2. It doesn't take long to take the intake manifold off, and the gaskets are dirt cheap. The brake booster heat shield is the biggest pain up top.
3. While the intake manifold is off, I am taking changing out some cooling hoses, the heater valve and vacuum lines, which all need it (the heater valve is leaking on my new clutch.
4. I had my injectors cleaned and flow balanced at a local diesel injector shop (NW Diesel Injection in New Westminster BC.) They could verify they had the appropriate equipment and training, and gave a written before/after summary. It turned out to be a waste of money, as the injectors were balanced within 1% both before and after, the spray pattern improved a little and the flow rates increased about 1%. Good piece of mind, though, and they installed new filter screens, O rings and spacers, and pintle caps. Total cost Can$120 plus tax; thats about $75 of those funny US dollars you guys use.
I received my parts today, and will be changing the rod bearings this weekend.
