tt9714

I've read about the consequences of rod bearing failure on the 944 series engines (or any engine for that matter). While I have the entire front suspension apart, I would like to go ahead and replace the motor mounts, oil pan seal, and rod bearings.

The question is "How difficult is it for the home mechanic to replace the rod bearings?" More specifically, does this procedure require any specialized tools? Putting aside the need for an engine hoist/crane and the fact that I will be laying on my back under the car for quite a while, what else should I know in advance?

Mike B

Here are a couple

Rennlist rod bearing R&R and Paragon's tech session rod bearing R&R

tt9714

I reviewed the suggested procedures. Doesn't sound too difficult, just time consuming.

OK, here's a self-admitted "newbie" question. Why does all of the "top end" stuff (fuel injectors, spark plugs, intake manifold, turbo coolant pump) need to come off the engine for the procedure? All of the "action" is underneath the engine, right??

ribs

I'm wondering the same thing. I, too, seem to be doing much of the same work you are doing (replace shocks/struts/springs/all bushings/oilpan gasket/motor mounts/rod bearings, as well as brakes, ignition, turbo electric water pump, accesssory belts, what ever hoses need replacing, and a few other things). I have a couple of questions, too:

1. When I have the fuel injectors out, what kind of local shop in a hayseed town (we have most national chains of auto repair shops around us) would be able to balance my fuel injectors.

2. What color should I powder coat my intake manifold while it is off ?

Mike B

Lots of board members have been real happy with RC Engineering to clean,calibrate and flow balance the injectors...

As for powder coating the intake a red car would love a red intake...I did my the intake, in my son's 924, in red (silver body) and it looks outstanding...I'll send some pics if you like...

I'm wondering the same about the intake colour for my 951 (body is Stone Grey Metallic)...

Danno

Step #1-12 on the Paragon Tech-Session page is only required if you have a one-piece crossover pipe. Removing it requires removing the injectors & intake-manifold. If you have a two-piece crossover, you can just remove it from below and skip steps #1-12.

951Tom

The intake manifold has to come off on turbo cars because the the crossover pipe wraps under the oil pan & bolts directly to the turbo. Turbocharger is only accessible with the intake manifold removed. NA cars do not need the intake removed as there is no crossover pipe blocking the bottom of the oil pan. Two piece turbo crossover pipe eliminates the need to remove it when doing the clutch.

Tom
'87 951
'86 Supra

tt9714

Thanks to everyone for all of the helpful discussion. Once I got under the car I realized that the exhaust piping is underneath the oil pan.

For clarification, how can I tell if I have a "1 piece" or "2 piece" crossover?" While I'm in there I should probably update to the 2-piece design if it has not already been done to simplify the inevitable clutch change at some point in the future.

-MDW

Dan in Pasadena

Mike B - You're the guy that did a LOT of restoration work on the silver 924, right? You refinished your phonedials and painted the center caps, right? Also a bunch of home-cooked powder coating, if I remember correctly.

Can you PLEASE explain what with/how/etc you refinished the phonedials and run the picture of them? I have it already but everyone should see yours to see how nice they can look (of course being in conjuntion with the cross drilled rotors doesn't hurt either!) Thanks in advance -Dan

Mike B

Hi Dan...wish I could take credit for the wheels but I bought them the way you they are in the pic from Jim Madura in New Jersey...All the other (red, black and chrome) stuff you see I powder coated...I'm a definite fan of powder coating.

I feel quite confident I could reproduce the finish on the wheels though...In fact I plan to do the wheels on my '86 951 in "wheel silver" very soon...The procedure is as simple as Perry951 stated in tt9714's POWDER COATING VS. ANODIZING thread...The key is getting the part clean, down to bare metal so the powder will properly adhere...I rinse everthing with acetone prior to appyling the powder cause even the oil from your fingers can screw it up...

Here are a couple pics of Jr's. 924..I tried to upload a pic of the wheel but only got "Internal Server Error"...Have to try again later

Dan in Pasadena

Mike B - these are exactly what I remember. The powder coating looks indistinguishable from pro. Does it honestly look this glossy and consistent up close? did you sand blast everything (including springs) yourself? WOuld my handy dandy Craftsman sand blaster work well enough to support this process?

Okay, dumb question but how will you bake out an entire rim? Will it fit in your household oven? How long will THAT take to get the whole wheel to the needed temperature and is there any loss of temper or heat treat concern? Or am I REALLY overestimating the cpability of the household oven. Not to be a wuss, but does it leave a smell in the oven that the "little woman" will have a cow about?

Mike B

Dan...The powder coating looks indistinguishable from pro. Does it honestly look this glossy and consistent up close?

Yup...It is simply amazing stuff.

did you sand blast everything (including springs) yourself? WOuld my handy dandy Craftsman sand blaster work well enough to support this process?

Mater of fact I did...I picked up an inexpensive desktop blasting cabinet and went to town...The springs were tedious so I used auto / aircraft paint remover on them...Worked great.

Okay, dumb question but how will you bake out an entire rim? Will it fit in your household oven? How long will THAT take to get the whole wheel to the needed temperature and is there any loss of temper or heat treat concern? Or am I REALLY overestimating the cpability of the household oven. Not to be a wuss, but does it leave a smell in the oven that the "little woman" will have a cow about?

First thing it is NOT recommended to use your household oven for powder coating...There are strong fumes involved that would really spice up the next batch of lasagna...I picked a used oven for free but these things are everywhere for dirt cheap...I wired my garage with 220 and added a range plug...Really easy...The rim will fit as I have tried a spare (tire off of course )...The heat is a valid question but I don't see it as a concern...Max. temp. the part gets to is approx. 450 F...

Mike S.

Dan and Mike B.,

The (forged) 7000 series aircraft aluminums we use in our turbines that are treated to T7X and T7XX conditions do loose their temper (and loss of strength) starting at about 300 deg F. I'll be happy to look into this further if you or someone else knows what alloy(s) and heat treats are commomly used for forged (and for that matter cast) wheels. Please send me a copy to my E-mail address as I don't browse this forum as frequently as I wish. I'll make sure a copy of my findings gets placed in this thread.

Mike

Dan in Pasadena

Thanks Mike B. for the info. Sounds like it works great. Of course, per Murphy's law I recently threw out an old but functioning gas double oven that would have worked for powder coating Guess I better go shopping for a used old oven!

Mike S. - I have no idea what aluminum alloy our wheels are made of nor the heat treatments they've been subjected to. Anyone?

keith

You DO NOT NEED TO REMOVE THE intake manifold on the 86 turbo to remove the one-piece crossover pipe. I have done my rod bearings twice and have NEVER removed anything on the top of the engine (except the throttle cable bracket) to do so.