long term storage
#1
Racer
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what are your suggestions for long term storage preparation for an 86 951? i'm thinking it'll be stored, in an enclosed but probably unheated area (i live in vermont, so it's gonna get cold
) from mid september until probably may or june. obviously disconnect the battery, i'll probably pull the wheels and leave it on jackstands so my tires aren't wrecked, what else should be done?
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#2
Drifting
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do they have public storage places where you can park a car for the winter? wonder how much that would cost... i need a place to put my car for the winter and i dont have a garage
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#4
Three Wheelin'
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Traditional wisdom is to pull the plugs, squrt about a teaspoon of motor oil into each cylinder, then crank briefly to distribute the oil in the top of the cylinders. Replace the plugs snug but not torqued, with a touch of oil on the threads. Before starting in the spring, remove the plugs & crank to avoid any chance of hydrolock from the remaining oil.
Probably be a good idea to use some kind of gas stabilizer (check with outdoor power equipment dealers?), and fill the tank to prevent condensation during temperature cycling.
Jack stands under the frame, not the suspension.
Small trickle charger on disconnected battery, if 110 volts is available. Not for totally enclosed spaces, due to the slight chance of hydrogen gas buildup.
Varmint protection... mice, groundhogs, etc will gnaw on wiring & other plastic/ rubber parts. Dunno what to suggest, other than a resident cat. Mothballs, maybe? Check for ideas with local farm extension agent?
Change the engine & gear oil after the first (gentle!) drive in spring. Flush brake & clutch systems with fresh fluid, ideally at the beginning & end of storage. Fresh coolant shortly before storage, to boost corrosion inhibitors in non-circulating coolant.
Car covers are debated, since they can trap dust & moisture against the paint.
Jim, my brain is now empty...
Probably be a good idea to use some kind of gas stabilizer (check with outdoor power equipment dealers?), and fill the tank to prevent condensation during temperature cycling.
Jack stands under the frame, not the suspension.
Small trickle charger on disconnected battery, if 110 volts is available. Not for totally enclosed spaces, due to the slight chance of hydrogen gas buildup.
Varmint protection... mice, groundhogs, etc will gnaw on wiring & other plastic/ rubber parts. Dunno what to suggest, other than a resident cat. Mothballs, maybe? Check for ideas with local farm extension agent?
Change the engine & gear oil after the first (gentle!) drive in spring. Flush brake & clutch systems with fresh fluid, ideally at the beginning & end of storage. Fresh coolant shortly before storage, to boost corrosion inhibitors in non-circulating coolant.
Car covers are debated, since they can trap dust & moisture against the paint.
Jim, my brain is now empty...
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#5
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I will be getting my car from the US next week. That means it hasn't been run for 6 weeks. What should I do to freshen it up? New oil, gearoil, gas?`Anything else. Pull the engine do a rebuild (say yes
)
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#6
Racer
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hmm, thanks. don't know if power will be avaliable, but i can deal with jumping it and needing a new battery in the spring. i'll have to look into that gas stablilzer, i don't know if the same one for lawm mowers/etc is ok for cars?
as to where i'm storing it, it's either going to be in the never used back loading bay of a friend's business or in one of those mini storage places. there's a bunch around me and they don't care what the hell you throw in them, as long as it doesn't catch fire or leak into other units
as to where i'm storing it, it's either going to be in the never used back loading bay of a friend's business or in one of those mini storage places. there's a bunch around me and they don't care what the hell you throw in them, as long as it doesn't catch fire or leak into other units
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#8
Race Car
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Stabil is the only fuel additive to use, dump it in and then drive to the nearest station for a fill-up. This will ensure that it is well mixed and circulated into the fuel lines, etc. We use nothing else at the marina and when I skipped the 2000 season, the boat started right up in 2001, after 17 months in storage!
Change the coolant before storing to make sure it's up to snuff.
Jim's on the right track, but a little behind the times, fog the engine but use an aerosol fogging oil, spray it into the intake until the engine starts to bog and shut it down before it can recover.
Remove the battery to prevent leaks.
Rodents, you're on your own.
Change the coolant before storing to make sure it's up to snuff.
Jim's on the right track, but a little behind the times, fog the engine but use an aerosol fogging oil, spray it into the intake until the engine starts to bog and shut it down before it can recover.
Remove the battery to prevent leaks.
Rodents, you're on your own.