Door handle removal for 944 - HELP!:)
08-24-2002, 04:57 PM
#1
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Door handle removal for 944 - HELP!:)
A few weeks ago there was a very detailed post on how to change a complete door handle. I just need to put new deals around mine.
In the post, all I thought you had to do to get the handle off and put the seals on was to remove the screw in the door by the handle.
I tried this and the door handle loosens, but does not come off.
What am I not doing?
Thanks as usual.
In the post, all I thought you had to do to get the handle off and put the seals on was to remove the screw in the door by the handle.
I tried this and the door handle loosens, but does not come off.
What am I not doing?
Thanks as usual.
08-24-2002, 05:13 PM
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This is from my "in the works" procedure on upgrading to 968 Door Handles. This section is on removing the 944 handles.
A) Open door and place towel on door sill to prevent door from closing once handle is removed.
B) Remove large Phillips head screw in door jam. The screw is located at the top of the door jam just behind the door handle.
C) Push handle assembly forward about an eighth of an inch.
D) The back, or trailing side of the door handle can now be pulled away from door panel about a half of an inch.
E) Find the pin that holds the actuator arm to the door handle. The pin is located underneath the back side of the handle and is accessed from below. Using a small hammer and a small nail or ice pick, push this pin toward the front of the car being careful not to allow the pin to pop out. The pin is small and easily lost. With the pin almost all of the way out, use needle nose pliers to grab and remove the pin. The actuator arm itself is attached inside the door and can not fall into the door. Push it away from the handle toward the inside of the door.
F) Work the front and rear of handle assemble away from the door. Be careful not to scratch the car door. You can now pull the handle assembly away from the door about an inch and see the two remaining attachment points, the white plastic arm and the Central Locking wire.
G) From the top of the door handle, pop off the white plastic arm that is attached to the lock assembly. The arm is connected to the lock by pressure fit over a small ball and is easily removed using a flat blade screwdriver. The arm will likely fall into the door, however it is easily retrieved as it is still attached inside the door and will pivot freely. If you do not have the Central Locking feature on your car, your handle is now free and can be removed from the car.
H) If you have the Central Locking feature on your car you will need to remove the flat blade screw that holds the wire to the lock assembly. Be careful, the screw is quite small and short. The screw holds a small bracket that clamps the wire to the lock assembly. Remove both the screw and the bracket and place to one side.
I) The Central Locking solenoid is snap fit to the side of the lock assembly. Using a small flat blade screw driver, scribe a mark on one side of the solenoid and the corresponding side of the lock assembly. This will ensure the solenoid is not installed upside down when reassembled. Using the flat blade screw driver gently pry the solenoid away from the lock assembly. Note for later reference the small “pin” on the inside surface of the solenoid. The handle is now free and can be removed from the car.
A) Open door and place towel on door sill to prevent door from closing once handle is removed.
B) Remove large Phillips head screw in door jam. The screw is located at the top of the door jam just behind the door handle.
C) Push handle assembly forward about an eighth of an inch.
D) The back, or trailing side of the door handle can now be pulled away from door panel about a half of an inch.
E) Find the pin that holds the actuator arm to the door handle. The pin is located underneath the back side of the handle and is accessed from below. Using a small hammer and a small nail or ice pick, push this pin toward the front of the car being careful not to allow the pin to pop out. The pin is small and easily lost. With the pin almost all of the way out, use needle nose pliers to grab and remove the pin. The actuator arm itself is attached inside the door and can not fall into the door. Push it away from the handle toward the inside of the door.
F) Work the front and rear of handle assemble away from the door. Be careful not to scratch the car door. You can now pull the handle assembly away from the door about an inch and see the two remaining attachment points, the white plastic arm and the Central Locking wire.
G) From the top of the door handle, pop off the white plastic arm that is attached to the lock assembly. The arm is connected to the lock by pressure fit over a small ball and is easily removed using a flat blade screwdriver. The arm will likely fall into the door, however it is easily retrieved as it is still attached inside the door and will pivot freely. If you do not have the Central Locking feature on your car, your handle is now free and can be removed from the car.
H) If you have the Central Locking feature on your car you will need to remove the flat blade screw that holds the wire to the lock assembly. Be careful, the screw is quite small and short. The screw holds a small bracket that clamps the wire to the lock assembly. Remove both the screw and the bracket and place to one side.
I) The Central Locking solenoid is snap fit to the side of the lock assembly. Using a small flat blade screw driver, scribe a mark on one side of the solenoid and the corresponding side of the lock assembly. This will ensure the solenoid is not installed upside down when reassembled. Using the flat blade screw driver gently pry the solenoid away from the lock assembly. Note for later reference the small “pin” on the inside surface of the solenoid. The handle is now free and can be removed from the car.
08-24-2002, 05:38 PM
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Thanks icat,
Fixing that stupid little gasket is on my honey-do list (honey = my 944) bugs the heck out of me every time I open the door to see that thing flapping in the wind.
Fixing that stupid little gasket is on my honey-do list (honey = my 944) bugs the heck out of me every time I open the door to see that thing flapping in the wind.
08-25-2002, 10:23 AM
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It really is quite easy. Once you've done it, it only takes about 5 minutes to pull the handle. You've basically got 4 connection points - the door jam screw, the actuator arm pin, the white plastic 'thinge', and the central locking wire (if you've got that option). I'm a bit long winded in the procedure, but I HATE procedures that 'skip' over the details. The current version of the procedure for the 968 handle upgrade is 8 pages - but that includes the pictures!
Just finished the 968 mirror install yesterday. The current crop of 'how to do it' procedures - that I've been able to find - are totally worthless. So I expect mine will be at least 8 pages. Stay tuned...
Just finished the 968 mirror install yesterday. The current crop of 'how to do it' procedures - that I've been able to find - are totally worthless. So I expect mine will be at least 8 pages. Stay tuned...
08-25-2002, 11:39 AM
#6
Keith is right it's very easy straight forward procedure it won't take more than five minutes to pull the handle out.Another five to put forexamble 968 handles back.
Olli
'88 951
with 968 handles & mirrors
Olli
'88 951
with 968 handles & mirrors
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08-25-2002, 12:22 PM
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[quote]Originally posted by keith:
<strong>Hey Keith, you didn't find my 968 door handle conversion instructions thread to be helpful???</strong><hr></blockquote>
Your instructions were a BIG help. I would not have been able to get the job done with out them. I went ahead and "photographed" the whole procedure along the way, and then wrote up additional notes to complete the process. I wrote procedure manuals for a living for awhile, so mine are written from that perspective. Let me make this clear - my previous statement was in reference to the 968 Mirror procedures that are "out there" - not Keith's door handle procedure, which is quite good. Hey, us Keith's got to stick together!
<strong>Hey Keith, you didn't find my 968 door handle conversion instructions thread to be helpful???</strong><hr></blockquote>
Your instructions were a BIG help. I would not have been able to get the job done with out them. I went ahead and "photographed" the whole procedure along the way, and then wrote up additional notes to complete the process. I wrote procedure manuals for a living for awhile, so mine are written from that perspective. Let me make this clear - my previous statement was in reference to the 968 Mirror procedures that are "out there" - not Keith's door handle procedure, which is quite good. Hey, us Keith's got to stick together!
08-25-2002, 12:40 PM
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[quote]Originally posted by keith:
<strong>(when are you getting a 931 hood, BTW?)</strong><hr></blockquote>
I thought about doing that, but I like the stock lines better. I am thinking about replacing the rock magnets that we call driving lamps with a flat panel, painted to match car, with air hoses to cool the engine or brakes. I don't really think it will help much, but I like the look and I'm getting tired of replacing lights with rock chips. Maybe what I should do is just invent/create/design a plastic piece that you can paint to match that you would cover the existing lamps with. Somebody beat me to this so I don't have to do it - got too many irons in the fire as it is! <img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[burnout]" />
<strong>(when are you getting a 931 hood, BTW?)</strong><hr></blockquote>
I thought about doing that, but I like the stock lines better. I am thinking about replacing the rock magnets that we call driving lamps with a flat panel, painted to match car, with air hoses to cool the engine or brakes. I don't really think it will help much, but I like the look and I'm getting tired of replacing lights with rock chips. Maybe what I should do is just invent/create/design a plastic piece that you can paint to match that you would cover the existing lamps with. Somebody beat me to this so I don't have to do it - got too many irons in the fire as it is! <img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[burnout]" />
08-25-2002, 02:12 PM
#11
Drifting
well, I'll post pics of the 931 hood on my car when it comes out of the paintshop next week...
When I stripped the car down for the repaint, I noticed that the front end looks pretty good with the gaping holes left when the fogs are removed! Probably terrible for aerodynamics, but if I did another brake duct, I'd probably work it into the back of the factory opening.
Hey - if you did that, you could run the fogs on the street, and pull them out for track day to expose the duct for the brakes... Hmmm... I'm going to chew on that one for a while....
When I stripped the car down for the repaint, I noticed that the front end looks pretty good with the gaping holes left when the fogs are removed! Probably terrible for aerodynamics, but if I did another brake duct, I'd probably work it into the back of the factory opening.
Hey - if you did that, you could run the fogs on the street, and pull them out for track day to expose the duct for the brakes... Hmmm... I'm going to chew on that one for a while....
