Forgot about one last problem with my seat bolts
#1
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I forgot to ask about one more little problem I'm having. The two front bolts for me seat stripped out (the hole). It's bolted down in the back, and if I have the backseat back down, it sits securely. However, I know this isn't safe I want to fix it. I tried some JB Weld, but that didn't hold. What else should I do?
#3
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Don't know how, though I may be able to ask a few friends. I'll talk to some people at school tommorow and see if the can do it for me.
Also, if it gets welded in, will it ever come back out?
Also, if it gets welded in, will it ever come back out?
#4
Racer
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re-thread or tap the hole to use a size bigger bolt
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Check the Yellow Pages for a local welding shop, or better yet, ask car-nut friends for a recommendation of one. There should be some one-man operations around.
Take metric nuts of the correct thread (look under "fasterners" or "bolts" in the YP), and get the welder to cut out the old ones, or drill thru them and attach the new ones underneath. If you use the 'drill-thru & weld on underneath method, you'll ned longer bolts (actually, "socket-head cap-screws").
This is _not_ a good place for half-arsed jury-rigged repairs. JB Weld is only for optimists, or use on no-stress areas. If there's no stress, why would it need repairing 8-)?
Jim, "I had a psychic girlfriend once, but she left me before we met."
Take metric nuts of the correct thread (look under "fasterners" or "bolts" in the YP), and get the welder to cut out the old ones, or drill thru them and attach the new ones underneath. If you use the 'drill-thru & weld on underneath method, you'll ned longer bolts (actually, "socket-head cap-screws").
This is _not_ a good place for half-arsed jury-rigged repairs. JB Weld is only for optimists, or use on no-stress areas. If there's no stress, why would it need repairing 8-)?
Jim, "I had a psychic girlfriend once, but she left me before we met."
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#8
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Not that easy gents. The front seat blind nuts float a bit. Meaning they are captured under the bent ridge of sheet metal that's welded to the floor pan. They float because the seat frame and rails can not be made that accurate because of welding drift.
My question is: Is the nut really striped or is it turning in the sheet metal ridge?
Or has it split the sheet metal and pulled out completely?
Or has it dropped into the cavity below?
My solution to the problem was to have a piece of 11 gauge sheet metal bent to fit over the holes where the captured nuts were and have them welded onto the floor pan. Guess you could also bolt them on. These have the floating blind nuts in them.
If anyone with a pre 85.5 is interested I could have sets made up at a reasonable cost.
My question is: Is the nut really striped or is it turning in the sheet metal ridge?
Or has it split the sheet metal and pulled out completely?
Or has it dropped into the cavity below?
My solution to the problem was to have a piece of 11 gauge sheet metal bent to fit over the holes where the captured nuts were and have them welded onto the floor pan. Guess you could also bolt them on. These have the floating blind nuts in them.
If anyone with a pre 85.5 is interested I could have sets made up at a reasonable cost.
#9
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SoCal, you lost me half way through your post. Let me try to re-explain.
The PO had put the wrong size bolts into one of the holes. The other hole is gone--there's a little square cut out a little bigger than the hole, and I have no idea why. The bolts themselves are fine, the holes they screw into are stripped.
How much would it cost for your repair thing SoCal, and how much would a place charge to have them welded on?
The PO had put the wrong size bolts into one of the holes. The other hole is gone--there's a little square cut out a little bigger than the hole, and I have no idea why. The bolts themselves are fine, the holes they screw into are stripped.
How much would it cost for your repair thing SoCal, and how much would a place charge to have them welded on?
#10
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"The other hole is gone..."
This means that the sheet metal is all cracked and there is nothing there to screw a bolt into just a big gaping hole?
As to "stripped" it may be that the blind nut is spinning in the sheet metal. Or that the PO tried to use a 1/4" bolt and not the proper metric bolt?
First you have to understand that the nuts that are in the floor pan are captured. This means that there is a square piece of metal that has a tapped hole that is held in place with the floor sheet metal so that it can move back and forth a bit but not turn when the bolt is screwed into it.
If you were to take one out it would not look like a regular nut.
This means that the sheet metal is all cracked and there is nothing there to screw a bolt into just a big gaping hole?
As to "stripped" it may be that the blind nut is spinning in the sheet metal. Or that the PO tried to use a 1/4" bolt and not the proper metric bolt?
First you have to understand that the nuts that are in the floor pan are captured. This means that there is a square piece of metal that has a tapped hole that is held in place with the floor sheet metal so that it can move back and forth a bit but not turn when the bolt is screwed into it.
If you were to take one out it would not look like a regular nut.
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That "little square hole" is the size of the blind nut that was under the ridge. Post 85.5's are much larger and thus stonger and there are six of them and not four.
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SoCal, I'd be very interested in seeing your fix, or anyone else's for that matter. My drivers r/h seat nut assy. has been completely removed by barbaric methods, I will have to weld metal back into it to get anything to attach to.
#15
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I had a problem like that (cracking in the seat mount) and got it fixed by a body shop. The cost was very modest and considering what the seat mounts do and what we do to these cars this is not a place to do some half-assed repair. It is worth it to get it done right.