help with identity of clanging sound
#1
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This afternoon, when I started my car up to do some errands, I let it warm up for about 30 seconds, go into reverse (I have AUTO) to get out of my parking spot and in the transition to drive my engine shakes a bit and at the same time hear some loud clanging like something's loose in the bay and then my car stalls.
I start her up again, and go about my business but I still hear that clanging going on between 1200 and 2500 RPM but goes away as I get the RPMs higher. Idling, I decided to turn off the radio and the fan (it's 95 F out here) and while waiting for the light to change, the clanging is intermittent and faint but noticable.
What is it? What should I check? Let me preface that I don't know much about my car since it's new to me (but I want to learn) so please talk to me like I'm a 10 year old. I did just add some oil last weekend (1 QT) when my level got low and filled up on cheap 93Octane gas out in WVa at the same time.
help!
-timmer
I start her up again, and go about my business but I still hear that clanging going on between 1200 and 2500 RPM but goes away as I get the RPMs higher. Idling, I decided to turn off the radio and the fan (it's 95 F out here) and while waiting for the light to change, the clanging is intermittent and faint but noticable.
What is it? What should I check? Let me preface that I don't know much about my car since it's new to me (but I want to learn) so please talk to me like I'm a 10 year old. I did just add some oil last weekend (1 QT) when my level got low and filled up on cheap 93Octane gas out in WVa at the same time.
help!
-timmer
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sounds like a heat sheild has come loose from under your car, take a look under your car, above the exhuast you will(should) see metal plates(the heat shields) one or more may be loose causing them to oscillate(sp?) and touch other components around them, giving a clanging sound. They are held on by bolts i beleive and one may have come undone, hope thats what it is....
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Your rubber disk that connects the engine to the drive saft is shot. The clanging is the safety ears banging against the flywheel dogs.
Will not last long. Best to plan on fixing it soon.
Will not last long. Best to plan on fixing it soon.
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About the same as a clutch. Possibly more as you have to remove an automatic trans with extra hoses.
The rubber disk has to come off with the torque tube and bell housing as there is a retaining clip on the very end of the drive shaft between the disk and the flywheel. You pull the starter and take out the nine socket heads that holds the disk to the flywheel to seperate it from the engine. Besides the bell housing bolts.
The Haynes 944 manual has a resonable explination. Haven't checked the shop manuals.
The rubber disk has to come off with the torque tube and bell housing as there is a retaining clip on the very end of the drive shaft between the disk and the flywheel. You pull the starter and take out the nine socket heads that holds the disk to the flywheel to seperate it from the engine. Besides the bell housing bolts.
The Haynes 944 manual has a resonable explination. Haven't checked the shop manuals.
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ok, I've done some investigating by revving the
car up to 4000RPM (while in newtrual) for about 10 or so seconds and let it drift down back to just under 1000RPM and got the clanging sound to come back consistently and located the general idea where it's coming from. It's coming from under the car, in the middle, by the long cylindrical semi-ribbed tube that connects to the exhaust. This is only by checking without raising the car to delve any deeper under the car. Is it still probably the disk or perhaps something else.
car up to 4000RPM (while in newtrual) for about 10 or so seconds and let it drift down back to just under 1000RPM and got the clanging sound to come back consistently and located the general idea where it's coming from. It's coming from under the car, in the middle, by the long cylindrical semi-ribbed tube that connects to the exhaust. This is only by checking without raising the car to delve any deeper under the car. Is it still probably the disk or perhaps something else.
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BTW, I ordered my Haynes yesterday via Pelican so I don't have a copy here with me yet.
I was planning on hitting the WVa mountains tonight and into tomorrow with the car so I suppose that's scratched.
I was planning on hitting the WVa mountains tonight and into tomorrow with the car so I suppose that's scratched.
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It's the flex disc also known as the automatic transmission damper . I personally did not drive mine for more than the 7 miles I needed to get it home . The limp home dogs are not that strong to hold out for very long. I just posted a bit of info on how to replace it in a thread called head gasket . If you want to make sure , just pull the starter and look in the bellhousing.
Shawn
87 944 na
Automatic
Shawn
87 944 na
Automatic
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[quote]Originally posted by the timmer:
<strong>and how much does a clutch job typically costs?
thks,
-timmer</strong><hr></blockquote>
If a couple of us come over for the week end it's pilsner and pizza.
If you take it to the dealer I think they eat caviar and champagne for a week.
<strong>and how much does a clutch job typically costs?
thks,
-timmer</strong><hr></blockquote>
If a couple of us come over for the week end it's pilsner and pizza.
If you take it to the dealer I think they eat caviar and champagne for a week.
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Hey man. I know if I put cheap gas in my 944 S2 the knock inhibiters<---spelling will kick in until the bad gas is burned away. That might be it. Or maybe I have no clue what I am talking about hehe. I hope its gonna be ok tho! Dont feel so bad I dumped $5000.00 on a tune up and new koni yellows. And I feel so much better knowing she runs great! You will too
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