Little torque wrench for WP
#1
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Little torque wrench for WP
I was reading the clarks-garage notes for WP replacement, and noticed the 6ftlb/8Nm spec on tightening the nuts/bolts for the WP. I appreciate the issue of stripping threads on the block with too much torque, but my torque wrench doesn't have a setting that low... I'd have to buy a little one just for this job.
Worth it? It seems a little bit over the top. My feeling is that I can tell when a bolt is tight enough to hold a WP in place, but...
BTW, I couldn't find the page in the FSM where the torque specs are described. Clark's is usually spot on, but I like to double check anyway (particularly since I have an S2). Anyone know the page?
Worth it? It seems a little bit over the top. My feeling is that I can tell when a bolt is tight enough to hold a WP in place, but...
BTW, I couldn't find the page in the FSM where the torque specs are described. Clark's is usually spot on, but I like to double check anyway (particularly since I have an S2). Anyone know the page?
#2
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I bought an ATD torque wrench that works between 25 and 250 in/lbs this summer for my cylinder head project. You could probably get away without it, but for peace of mind it might be worth it. I believe I paid $60-$70.
http://www.atdtools.com/showitem.php?item_id=105
As for torque specs, I believe the 1A engine manual only lists torque values that are specific to the 16v engines. If it's not listed there, it should be the same as listed for the 8v engines in the regular manual
EDIT: Page 10 - 04 in the regular engine manual lists 6 ft-lbs for the water pump to crankcase bolts, secured with loctite 270
EDIT:EDIT: fixed my bad grammar
http://www.atdtools.com/showitem.php?item_id=105
As for torque specs, I believe the 1A engine manual only lists torque values that are specific to the 16v engines. If it's not listed there, it should be the same as listed for the 8v engines in the regular manual
EDIT: Page 10 - 04 in the regular engine manual lists 6 ft-lbs for the water pump to crankcase bolts, secured with loctite 270
EDIT:EDIT: fixed my bad grammar
Last edited by krazykarl; 11-09-2009 at 08:57 PM.
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BTW, the Loctite 270 is described as being for the "permanent locking and sealing of threaded fasteners"... given this is probably not the last WP this car will have installed, I really think I'd rather go with the good ol' Loctite 242 (blue).
I hope the last installation wasn't with 270. What do you do to release if they won't budge? Heat?
I hope the last installation wasn't with 270. What do you do to release if they won't budge? Heat?
#6
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I would not use Red loctite, that is asking for trouble. Not sure why you need any?
Any torque value on these assumes you've thoroughly cleaned and chased the threads and nuts.
Any torque value on these assumes you've thoroughly cleaned and chased the threads and nuts.
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The FSM specifies using Loctite 270. I assume it's because the torque needs to be low, a thread locker prevents the nuts and bolts working loose through vibration from the engine.
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#8
IT may be different, but Green locktite is actually a sealant, not a thread locker. My torque wrench goes that low but it would be rather silly to spend $500 for a single replacement... I would do it by hand, be gentle and youll be fine. They dont need to be tight, snug...
Mark
Mark
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http://www.sell-it-easy.de/media/fil...e/270TI-EN.PDF
#11
Socket, but i bet you could get close with your hand... 6ftlbs is not much at all, those same size bolts on a 997 are 10nm.... I can do that without a wrench i have done so many...
Mark
Mark
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But I like the idea... an elegant solution from first principles.
Last edited by Mark944na86; 11-10-2009 at 08:59 AM. Reason: Speeling